Flint, steel, and skinned knuckles

[Goose]

I've been experimenting with different fire starting methods lately. I started with the ferrocium rod, and while that was fairly easy, I did learn the importance of a dry, fluffy tinder pile.

Speaking of tinder piles, I am realizing that a good tinder pile, along with a prepared bundle of kindling and fuel (bigger sticks) is half the battle!

Back to the ferro rod; the one I have is a cheapy-cheapy, and I haven't previously been surprised by my lack of sparks. But a couple of weeks ago that all changed when I used the back of the saw on my Leatherman Wave. I nearly lost my eye-sight from all the sparks!

With that lesson learned, I will stick to my cheapy-cheapy ferro rod instead of hashing out the big bucks for a "better" one. Or are the pricier ones really that much better?

Well, I graduated from the school of the ferrocium rod and tried my hand at the bow drill. I am far from graduating there, but I have learned some of the magic behind it, and alas, I have started a small handful of fires along the way.

Lessons learned from the bow drill method. First, the bow drill method is a living creature that loves to taunt you. "Look, smoke!" it cheers...but alas, no fire for you today.

Most frustrating is that I started two or three and thought I was getting the hang of it. And then I couldn't get one for over a week. Had I lost my magic? Poor choice of wood? Incorrect notch? Not enough elbow grease? Why the heck does this thing squeal so loudly (I don't want to pest the neighbors)?

The bearing block ended up being the culprit. I snatched my wifes miniature ice cream scooper thingy and used it as a bearing block and two things happened: first, the squealing stopped (music to my ears). Second, I've made a fire with every attempt since then...but my wife made me give back her scooper thingy.

Never fear, there is more than one way to skin a cat--or start a fire. And that brings me to my current fire starting method: flint and steel.

So, as usual, I started out researching on youtube, and I found a lot of help. First, how to do it. I also took a long gander at the ESEE fire steel kit, the one with the bow drill divet (bwah ha ha...). However, my fire was quickly quenched when I saw how much they wanted for it! Youtube helped again by showing me how to make a striker from an old bastard (file, that is).

Finally, I needed a rock that would produce a spark. Again, Professor Youtube learnt me how to identify the right kind of rocks and so off I went in search of said rocks. I seriously didn't think I had a prayer at finding one...but I did along the railroad tracks in town.

I will say that I spent quite a while figuring out how to hit the rocks correctly. But I have started two fires today at the cost of three fingers. They are only skinned and will live to start more fires. Funny thing is, I had my lighter in my pocket the whole time.

If you have tarried along with me this far, my question is this, how can I do the flint and steel without beating up my hands? Bigger rocks? Practice? Or is there some kinda magic that I haven't figured out?

Thanks for your help!

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[hunter63]

You seem to be well along on you quest for fire.....
As far as a striker of the flint...and yeah, file work......try to find or make your self a steel striker with the ends that help keep you fingers away for the flint....

Many ways to make them form the file to fancy.......but just stole this off Google images....as am example...
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Chard cloth is also a real big help to catch the rather feeble spark the flint and steel throws compared to the ferro rod.

Crash has You Tube vid.....on making char cloth..
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...ing-Char-Cloth

He also has several on different fire making methods.

[crashdive123]

No magic really. The forged strikers that H63 put a picture are great. I use a small piece of hardened steel pinched between my thumb and index finger. Just takes practice.

[crashdive123]

Here's one using flint and steel.

[crashdive123]

I forgot about the sticky where they were all together....here it is. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...rs-And-Tinders

[edr730]

A tip for your bow drill... Stuff some aluminum foil into your bearing block hole and go with it a couple sessions. Your bearing block hole and top of the spindle will become silver in color and smoother. A soft bearing block will cause you problems too.

[kyratshooter]

Fire drills were used for a couple of million years without bearing blocks with tin foil, icecream scoops or roller skate bearings.

Use some ear wax, tallow or lard in the bearing block. Just grease the thing.

As for the skinned knuckle problem, just pay attention to what you are doing, or get a larger striker, or a better flint. It is a problem I have never encountered.

[Goose]

I watched the videos and they were very helpful---thanks!!

Last night I couldn't help myself, and, sitting at my desk, began trying to throw a spark in my tin. No success. My son was doing something in the same room, and I didn't want to bother him so I went outside to try again.

No kidding, I lit the char cloth on the first strike! Not only so, but I did it with the cloth being on top of the rock, which I see a lot of people doing but I had not previously been able to accomplish. So I snuffed it out and attempted to throw sparks into the tin and it lit up after only a few smacks.

My observation is that I have more (and quicker) success outside. Is it because of air flow (more wind)? I think there could be something to that, what do ya'll think? Not trying to over think it, but I figure knowing the science of it will lead to better success.

Thanks again!

Goose

[Goose]

No ice cream scoopers?!? How did they get their ice cream out of the bucket? (lol, just kidding)

I will try some grease and see how that does, it makes a lot of sense. But I will definitely have to try the aluminum foil!!

--Goose

[hunter63]

Some time is just DAL on how fast and easy it starts.

Was practicing for a fire starting contest at a rendezvous, with my kit that I can use as a cigarette lighter it so easy to catch a spark....Nothing, Nada, Zip....
Was hot and damp...I was sweating and getting upset.....No joy.....

So stopped for a break, lite up a cigarette with one my "Lucifer's"...(strike any where matches)....when a young kid that had been watching says..."Hey Mister, why don't you just use your match's?"

DUH....

Some times it works, and some time it just tries to make you look and feel silly.

BTW....When it comes to hand drills//bow drills....can say that I have done it.....I am NOT good at it, need practice, but have decided at age 67...really don't care.

Besides if your bow drill is supposed to be a method of fire when all your carried lighters, ferro rods,or road flares are not available.....I don't think you are gonna find a ice cream scoop, roller shake bearing in the wild....alum foil maybe...but my money is on a BIC that ran out of fluid that some one tossed.

So having to find and carry all that stuff....bearing block, paracord, certain kind of wood for fire board, bow etc....when a package of BIC's are 5 for a buck at the Dollar Store...just seems silly to me.....Just an observation.

When some one walks out into the wilderness (anywhere), picks up local materials, and makes it work...make fire....THAT is impressive.

[hayshaker]

hunter you are so practical,lol
any how if robert redford in jerimiah jhonson would have wipped out a bic lighter in the movie
it just woulda looked funny.that's all i'm saying or say a olin mini flare heh heh

[jdbushcraft]

If you strike down on the flint with the steel you want the char cloth on top, as the sparks will go up. If you strike down on the steel with the flint you can direct the sparks down and into your tin.

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[edr730]

Firebow drills are a fun toy. They don't indicate that someone is a woodsman. They do have the wow factor and that's why they are fun to show people. You can learn all about them far from any woods.
But, in perfect conditions and having a knowlegable person set it up, many people could do it in under 30 seconds and almost all under 60. Like many things, it's what's in your head and what you know. It's best to start out cheating and using all at your disposal to learn the materials and form. It shortens the learning curve.
I just now used a bow and cedar board from the woods, boxelder spindle from the yard, paracord, and a very straight spindle holder I made from a sharpening steel. Counting the time my hand needed to start and stop the stopwatch on my phone, I was able to produce a coal in 14 seconds. Without the spindle holder it took 18 seconds. It was not pre-warmed up. It was preconditioned. I used the old burned dust to peak it to the top of the chimney and dropped a bit into the hole. I scratched the hole and the bottom of the spindle with my knife first. Many others at this site would do the same if everything was set up for them, I am not very exceptional.

[hunter63]

No magic really. The forged strikers that H63 put a picture are great. I use a small piece of hardened steel pinched between my thumb and index finger. Just takes practice.

Actually the pic was to show shape, not necessarily material or method of manufacture.....curved top and bottom does help keep your soft parts away from sharp and hard parts.

Got a couple that a guy made me a few from old, tow behind hay rake tines......work well....and he insists that you need to be facing North and South as the metal will take up the earths magnetism ....or course he is a buckskinner and is known to embellish a bit.

[Goose]

As they say, practice makes perfect. I get a little better each time (most the time). I think if i grind the file edge a bit it will shave better. I may try rounding the edge as well to eliminate the sharpness, at least on one side.

As for the bow drill, I took heed to the disappointed souls who lamented my use of the ice cream scooper. Luckily, when I was searching for some flint, I found a shell that had a fairly good divet. I was able to get a coal in no time, although far from under 30 seconds. But I am getting there!!

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[hunter63]

Kudo's on using your head to find "flint"
You may find a "bearing stone" in you searches....

I have found many pieces of "sparking rocks: in landscaping gravel, roof top (service guy) as well as the rail road tracks.
Use to carry around a piece of file and "spark" likely looking rocks....might want to square off one edge or your file, and round the other and try it.
I just ground off the segregations on the edges.

BTW found this in a dry river bed, in a real dry year....
I thing it is a actual artifact as it fits you had just perfect...and the hole has circular marks in it.

Showed it to our Archeological Prof at the collage...he said he doesn't think so...but wants me to give it to him.....LOL

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[Goose]

I'm definitely goint to grind the file's edges. I'm gonna make one side smooth with the edges rounded (to solve the problem of cutting my knuckles) and I'm going to smooth out the other side but keep a 90° for using the ferro rod. Until that happens I am letting it rest.

That stone was a sweet find...don't let the professor have it!

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[hunter63]

Yeah, he thinks all artifacts belong to him.......and I find most of these do covet your finds.....or tell you that you shouldn't have touched it or moved it, as it would destroy the provenience.

On the other hand if I wouldn't have picked it up. it would be under 6 ft. of water...LOL

Oh well does work well.......and yeah I spend a lot of time looking at stuff on the ground.

[edr730]

Goose, you're enthusiasm will make you an expert if you don't lose it. The negative attitudes of this thread are at a minimum and it is refreshing and constructive. I have enjoyed reading this thread.
I just wanted to throw my two cents in there about the firebow. Firebow drills should be easy if the conditions are perfect. There are many things that help to make it easy. One of the many things that will help you is the tension of the string on the spindle. There is a sweet spot. The sweet spot is when you have the cord as loose as you can and it will not slip. And when the tension increases when the spindle heats up and begins to grap harder and you begin to fear that it will slip...but it does not....then you are perfect. I doubt you will find that information on the internet. You need a tensioning system to do this accurately.
By the way....nice artifact Hunter.

[Goose]

Goose, you're enthusiasm will make you an expert if you don't lose it. The negative attitudes of this thread are at a minimum and it is refreshing and constructive. I have enjoyed reading this thread.
I just wanted to throw my two cents in there about the firebow. Firebow drills should be easy if the conditions are perfect. There are many things that help to make it easy. One of the many things that will help you is the tension of the string on the spindle. There is a sweet spot. The sweet spot is when you have the cord as loose as you can and it will not slip. And when the tension increases when the spindle heats up and begins to grap harder and you begin to fear that it will slip...but it does not....then you are perfect. I doubt you will find that information on the internet. You need a tensioning system to do this accurately.
By the way....nice artifact Hunter.

Thanks for the encouragement! I am certainly new to the craft and am having a blast (very therapeutic too). This forum has been very helpful, not only with my post, but with all the others I am reading as well. So many projects to look forward to--can't wait!

-Goose

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