Good $60 Knife

[Zack]

I'm starting to like the RAT 5...

[TXyakr]

I rarely process wood other than very fine kindling with a knife. That is why I carry a folding saw and/or an ax. Is it sturdy enough to baton wood? Yes.

I agree with crash just because you can baton (split) a relatively thick piece of dead (seasoned) wood with a RAT-5 or similar thick bladed full tang knife does not mean you should plan to, regardless of all the youtube videos demonstrating it. Better to use a hatchet, ax or saw for heavier wood processing like that. There are many other methods to split wood as well and often it is not necessary. Personally I really like to be able to make notches but often a saw blade works better, and a folding saw even works better for clearing briars sometimes.

[Zack]

I agree with crash just because you can baton (split) a relatively thick piece of dead (seasoned) wood with a RAT-5 or similar thick bladed full tang knife does not mean you should plan to, regardless of all the youtube videos demonstrating it. Better to use a hatchet, ax or saw for heavier wood processing like that. There are many other methods to split wood as well and often it is not necessary. Personally I really like to be able to make notches but often a saw blade works better, and a folding saw even works better for clearing briars sometimes.

I understand the purpose of the video now. Like I said before, I keep a 7" Old Hickory to do any messy work I don't want to beat my Bucks up with or destroy my Moras with.

[Rick]

That Old Hickory is the better knife.

[Zack]

That Old Hickory is the better knife.

Really? The fixed-blade Bucks are pretty good in my opinion, maybe not though...

[MrFixIt]

I am one of those folks who baton wood on a regular basis.
I use my Condor Tavian, kukri, and even my newly acquired BK-11 neck knife. Not saying it is right or wrong, but it is what I do.
I'll also add that I carry a folding saw and use it to cut wood to rough size for fire, shelter or whatever I need.
Being able to use your tools effectively is the key IMO. And I don't try to chop down a tree using my camp kitchen knife. I know the limitations of my tools and myself.

[Sarge47]

If God wanted us to baton to split wood He wouldn't of gave us the "splitting ax!" Anyway, since I don't backpack any more I don't worry about ax weight. Since I live in a sort of community without a fireplace and open fires are not allowed I don't worry about firewood. When I'm camping out on my brother's property he has a splitting ax and chain saws...problem solved!....

[Traditionalist]

If you want a knife for splitting, a becker bk2 is your best friend. It's .25" thick, and weighs a pound. I'd suggest a small hatchet if your serious about splitting a decent amount of wood.

[Zack]

If you want a knife for splitting, a becker bk2 is your best friend. It's .25" thick, and weighs a pound. I'd suggest a small hatchet if your serious about splitting a decent amount of wood.

I don't want the knife for just splitting firewood, but I thought that the capability to do so is never bad. The same with chopping 1"-3" tree limbs, it's never bad to have the ability to do it. So if I really had to, could I split wood with the Rat 5? Chop with it? Carve with it? Dress game with it? My question is, can the Rat 5 perform a wide variety of chores better than other knives in the price range? If not, what knife does them better?

[randyt]

I almost never baton not that I won't, instead I use squaw wood. I've have always been fortunate to been where there is squaw wood.

[Tokwan]

Good commennts and feedbacks from the team here. IMHO, when we want to get a survival knife, it would be good to get a knife that you can use for a lot of things , such as cutting small trees, withstand batoning and other chores, even though you might not use it often. However when it come to that one time, you might need it. That is why I chose a knife that is an all rounder...its just like a survival kit, you put in certain items that you might not use, but when you need to use it, it could be worth your life!

[Sarge47]

Cody Lundin batons with a Mora knife. He did it on Dual Survival. As far as RAT knives we had a member on here a while back that broke the tip of his Ontario knife and sent it back to the company. They replaced it for free, no questions asked.

As for batoning I never do it, but if I did I'd use my Buck Hoodlum....

[Zack]

Good commennts and feedbacks from the team here. IMHO, when we want to get a survival knife, it would be good to get a knife that you can use for a lot of things , such as cutting small trees, withstand batoning and other chores, even though you might not use it often. However when it come to that one time, you might need it. That is why I chose a knife that is an all rounder...its just like a survival kit, you put in certain items that you might not use, but when you need to use it, it could be worth your life!

Exactly! I don't think I could have said it better. Thanks, Tokwan!

[Zack]

I almost never baton not that I won't, instead I use squaw wood. I've have always been fortunate to been where there is squaw wood.

Squaw wood?

[Zack]

Yes Zack, I agree...most good knives at that price may seem easy to get, and when you get them, they can't do some of the things that you wanted.
I think, its best for you to research and then decide,
How to research.
1. Ask around and make notes.
2. Google for survival knives within your budget and make notes.
3. Narrow your scope.
4. Look at reviews and narrow down further to the knives that meets your requirement.
5. Call up shops that you trust and see if they can supply you.

I reckon we are talking about survival knives.

I would stay away from Made in China knives even though the brands licensed them. The reason is, it s effect my ego! Simple as that. If it effects your ego, pretty soon you are gonna chuck it away.

Look at good branded knife, like OKC, Esee, Ka Bar, Eka.

Look for good reviews on handles, balance, material, strength and usage. Look at the tests. I like the stab and twist test, it shows the strength. The back of the knife should be able to be used on the ferro rod (firesteel) and shave magnesium bars. It should be able to withstand batoning too.

Go to the shop and try holding it.

Look at knives that are durable, easy to sharpen, able to hold its edge. I am not concerned about the sheath..its the knife that counts most, you can make the sheaths later.

I am now in love with my Ontario Blackbird SK 5. It fits me well and able to do a lot of things and the sheath is good too. I can fit some survival things in it.
\
But the cost is a bit high...but my take is, its better to spend a bit more or save and wait till you have enough and then get your dream knife.

I've been looking, like Tokwan said, and I like the RAT 3. Does anybody know if it has a 90 degree spine?

[kyratshooter]

Squaw wood?

Squaw wood is the small dead branches still clinging to a tree. It usually grows near the ground and is protected by the foliage above from moisture and saturation, meaning that even when the rest of the forest is soaked the squaw wood will be dry.

"Back in the day" we were taught to gather squaw wood as our primary kindling precluding the need for splitting large wood into kindling.

Of course "back in the day" we were taught to bring a pocket knife, a belt knife and an axe too, and not to seek the impossible, one knife to do it all.

[hunter63]

Squaw wood is the small dead branches still clinging to a tree. It usually grows near the ground and is protected by the foliage above from moisture and saturation, meaning that even when the rest of the forest is soaked the squaw wood will be dry.

"Back in the day" we were taught to gather squaw wood as our primary kindling precluding the need for splitting large wood into kindling.

Of course "back in the day" we were taught to bring a pocket knife, a belt knife and an axe too, and not to seek the impossible, one knife to do it all.

The term squaw wood isn't used as much these days as one may consider it not so PC.......but ask most older guys....and that has the meaning of kindling and wood small enough to burn with out a lot of processing.

Big fires are not needed in most instances, so gathered cooking, water processing, heat and light can be taken care of simply by gathering small pieces of wood as deadfalls, and other scrap.
Why saw a log in half?.... when you can burn it in half?

This kinda falls apart in a groomed camp site......then add "do not cut the trees, buy our crappy wood" and spend a lot of time and effort cutting splitting it into something that will burn.

[Zack]

Thanks Hunter and KYRatshooter. I guess I use a lot of "squaw wood" in my fire pit, but I've never heard it called that. Like Hunter said, probably because it's not very PC. I won't call it "squaw wood" in mixed company.

[kyratshooter]

We'll change the name to "Female Native American of Child Bearing Age Wood".

[randyt]

the PC crowd can say what but if I had been born years ago, I would have took up tipi living with a nice indian gal.