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Thread: O2 vs A1 as knife steels?

  1. #1

    Default O2 vs A1 as knife steels?

    I am getting set to try my first knife building project and I have a private source for some O2 and A1 bar in ¼ inch stock. I know the chemical composition characteristics of these metals and I have used them in shop tooling applications (My bench planes have blades made with these steels.) I will be making basic fixed blade survival type knives and skinning knives.

    I have some basic forging tools, a decent bench grinder, but no heat treatment equipment. What are your opinions about the respective merits of these two steels for a beginner? Does the answer change if I have access to an oven for heat treatment like Crash uses in some of his videos? My personal style is that I do not baton with knives or use them as pry bars - unless I have to. So sharpen-ability is more important to me than extreme durability for severe uses.

    I plan on acquiring a combo belt sander/grinder, but price is a concern. What do you think of the stuff at Harbor Freight and Grizzly? I live too far from HF to visit, so I will probably have to order on line from them or Grizzly and my experience is that some of their stuff is OK and some is bad news, hard to tell from a picture. I am by no means fixed on these vendors, if anyone knows of a good value elsewhere.


  2. #2
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I've never used those steels, but have used O1 and A2. Keep in mind that one is air quenched and the other is liquid quenched (if that helps make up your mind). As far as grinders go, I believe the Grizzly (G105) is far superior to anything you can find at Harbor Freight. Of course, you will pay more for it --- I think they are going for $525 new right now and then you need to factor in shipping.

    Homemade is another option, but unless you have the "stuff" on hand you will spend quite a bit as well.

    I started with a little HF grinder (1X30) but really made progress when I moved to a Grizzly 2X72. Another bonus on the Grizzly is that it comes with a buffer. If I had a bigger shop I would still have my Grizzly.
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    (FMR) Wilderness Guide pgvoutdoors's Avatar
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    I've never worked with either, but I own a Bark River camp knife made with A2 steel and it's a real work horse. The convex blade holds a great edge.
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  4. #4

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    Thanks for the responses. Pardon my dyslexia. I am leaning toward the O1, even though the rusting issue is greater than with the A2. The oil quench should not be a problem to do.

    I'm thinking you are right about the grinder, Crash. The one you mentioned looks like something more rugged and versatile. I may have enough budget to get it, since it turns out WW likes the idea of making knives and wants to try it herself. She has some black denim and I'll bet she also wants to try your method of making micarta for scales. (I'm probably going to use wenge I have on hand.)

  5. #5
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    you can look at A1 as between 0-1 and D2 in wear resistance, hardning, etc, it is an Air quenched steel and requires some fairly accurate and high temperatures to harden 1700-1800 degrees these temeratures are hard to guess and a magnet test will not work, so a temperature controlled heat treat oven will most likley be needed. Also to temper the steel to a good knife hardness you will need a way to temper at say 500 to 700 degrees for say 58-60 hrc going by memory here so may want to look it up, any way you will need a better oven than your kitchen oven for this steel probably once again a heat treatment oven will be required, If you over come those two issues it is an awesome steel.

    02 is a good general purpose tool steel but I think you will find it easier to work with... with the tools you have at hand, you can heat treat it with a torch and warm mineral oil or something simular. it is an oil/liquid quench tool steel that has a critical temperature of 1420-1590 so you can heat it even with a forge or torch until its no longer magnetic which should be about 1475 if I remember right then quench in oil, then you can temper it around 480-600 degrees still a little much for a toaster oven but closer that should give you 56 to 60 hrc. So if you maxed out your kitchen oven to say 500-550 you could get in around 58- 60hrc.

    A1 is probably the better steel, 02 is a great steel and going to be easier to work with, hope that helps.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Jonesy's Avatar
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    Use O1 if your just starting. 1095 is an even simpler route and makes a very good blade.
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