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Thread: 2 in 1 simple scandi grind jig and scandi ground knife blank.

  1. #1
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    Default 2 in 1 simple scandi grind jig and scandi ground knife blank.

    OK I was in the shop working today, and put 3 Damascus blades in the tempering oven for there 3 90min runs. I was thinking about scandi ground knives and how many I have been seeing lately. I took out my lansky sharpener to hand sharpen a knife, stress relief as I have several motorised ways of sharpening knives. I was thinking you could make a scandi ground knife with it if you had two weeks...lol then it hit me so I made a really large lansky sharpener and made a couple blanks with it in just a matter of a few minutes and some elbow grease.

    materials: a flat length of scrap steel I used a piece of C iron. A piece of all thread and two nuts, a washer, hose clamps, hand file, and a round rod. Improvise and use what you have laying around.

    All I did that you cant see from the pictures is used a nut on top and bottom of all thread to set the desired angle and hold it firm. And ground the cutting edges from sides of the file so I could get good clean plunge cuts without removing material from the plung cut and ricasso area while filing.


    using the Jig: clamp blank onto flat bar (pic 4, notice the flat bar also acts as the plunge cut guide, I removed the cutting edges from the side of the file). 2 place file on blank, set angle with protractor pic 5. tighten the nuts and file away. Repeat on other side of Jig and blank. Remember to mark the edge of the blank in your usual way, I use a drill bit the same thickness as the blank. I made these at 20 degrees as to match the Lansky system what I will do finial sharpening once blanks are hand sanded, heat treated, and knife completed.


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    do not laugh at my welding skills, as I have none...lol. Just welded a washer to top of the all thread.

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    placed a nut on top and bottom of the flat bar.

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    after setting the desired angle just file away, this is not to bad as you can really get on it using the steel rod as a handle and using the entire cutting face of the file. Notice the flat bar sets the plunge cut, makes a nice sharp cut just like I like.

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    setting the angle, I checked the angle a few times during the process, but it never changed, it was surprisingly stable and accurate, I think because its so simple.

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    blanks will need cleaned up, as usual, I may parkerize these blades then polish the entire cutting edge that could look sweet. Any way you can see the scandi ground edge looks good to me. The File can be replaced with a diamond file after heat treat to finish edge, I will probably use the diamond sharpener in my Lansky, we will see.

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I've seen a few jigs like that. I like yours - nice and simple. I think you may be a little steep with your angle. Typical bushcraft scandi grinds are 22 degrees overall, or 11 degrees per side. Of course - if it's sharp and works, that's all that matters.

    I'm putting together a jig for my Wilton Square Wheel.
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    Senior Member Sparky93's Avatar
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    Nice jig, I like it.
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    I like the jig, I need to set up something like that. The blade looks like it has a consistent besil. I like the results.
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    I've seen a few jigs like that. I like yours - nice and simple. I think you may be a little steep with your angle. Typical bushcraft scandi grinds are 22 degrees overall, or 11 degrees per side. Of course - if it's sharp and works, that's all that matters.

    I'm putting together a jig for my Wilton Square Wheel.
    I read that about 11 degrees per side for 22 total, but I didn't believe it. I sharpen kitchen knives at 17 per side, hunting knives at 20 degrees per side for 40 total and heavy use camp knife at 25, 50 total, this is on par with most knife and sharpening sorces I know, maybe even a little more aggressive since box knife blades are around 17 degrees. Do you know why scandi grinds are at 11 is there something about them I do not understand? Any schooling on this would be appreciated since these will be my first, but I was nervious about 11 degrees, they should turn out like razors but at what cost on edge retention?
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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randallss7 View Post
    I read that about 11 degrees per side for 22 total, but I didn't believe it. I sharpen kitchen knives at 17 per side, hunting knives at 20 degrees per side for 40 total and heavy use camp knife at 25, 50 total, this is on par with most knife and sharpening sorces I know, maybe even a little more aggressive since box knife blades are around 17 degrees. Do you know why scandi grinds are at 11 is there something about them I do not understand? Any schooling on this would be appreciated since these will be my first, but I was nervious about 11 degrees, they should turn out like razors but at what cost on edge retention?
    In my opinion and experience the scandi grind is the same as a saber grind. Not sure who or when the term was coined, but I rarely if ever see it used outside of bushcraft type knives. The less steep angle does a couple of things. It makes a better slicer which I believe is what a bushcraft knife is all about. It also gives a wider bevel which makes it easier to sharpen in the field. Since you are grinding your primary bevel to zero and do not have a secondary bevel - the wider platform makes it easier match the bevel when laying it on your sharpening stone.
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    I went out and re filed it to 12.5 I think for 0-1 that will be perfect, talked to Bushmonkey about it on a different forum that is what he used for 0-1. You will have more role over on the edge of a saber/scandi grind knife but it doesn't seam to come into play much, I can't wait to see how sharp this thing will get. Thanks for the input.
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    a jig for my Wilton Square Wheel.
    Last time I checked, square wheels didn't work all that well. Just sayin....
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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyME View Post
    Last time I checked, square wheels didn't work all that well. Just sayin....

    They work fine, you just need to keep the elbows really loose and just go with it, the vibration will kill you long term....lol
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    Here is the finished knife from one of the blanks, 12.5 degree saber bevel, 1/8" thick 0-1 tool steel, blade is parkerized bevel is just sharpened on natural stone. Handle is a from a hickory stave I cut a few years back, but it twisted to much during the curing process, anyway it makes awesome handles, hard and durable.

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  11. #11
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    Looks real good. I like it.
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    Looks good...

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