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Thread: 1095 steel and Moras

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    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    Default 1095 steel and Moras

    I know Mora uses a different steel than 1095 but something similar to their steel is what i'm after. I see 1095 listed as high carbon but i'm not familiar with it. Just how high carbon is it? I want something like a Mora blade that will turn into a rust bucket but still take a razor edge.


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    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    Mora does use 1095. The company calls it UHB-20C. The rest of the world calls it 1095.

    http://www.safezonellc.com/moracat.html

    Old Hickory, K-bar and Ontario also use 1095.
    Last edited by kyratshooter; 02-09-2013 at 04:56 AM.
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    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    That link gives soem complex advice on heat treatment.

    The standard with 1095 is heat to orange and quench in oil, then stress relieve for 3 hours at 400 degrees.

    There are about 500 different heat-treat recipes on the internet. Based on that you can supose that 1095 is very tolerant or so many people could not do so may different things to it and still have it work.

    I'll bet when Crash wakes up he will have input. You seldom make more than a dozen knives before you bump into 1095 and I am sure he has a method that works for him.
    Last edited by kyratshooter; 02-09-2013 at 06:03 AM.
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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Their heat treat temp is listed at 1650. The range for heat treating 1095 is fairly wide. I use 1525. I do not use their tempering temps. Their low range (700 degrees) will yield a Rockwell hardness of 55 which is a bit soft IMO for a field knife. The trick is finding the balance. You want a knife that will hold an edge so that you don't want to sharpen it every five minutes but not so hard that you cannot sharpen it in the field. I temper at 450.
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    I use a lot of 1095 it has 1 percent carbon give or take a little. Here is a simple web sight on heat treating tool steel, its a short read and easy to follow, there are two charts at the back one for quench temperature and one for tempering along with other good information.

    Typical chemistry C .90/1.04, Mn .60/.90.

    http://tidewaterblacksmiths.net/2.html
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    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    Lots of great information i'll go over when I get a few minutes, thanks. I didn't know that was another name for 1095. So any 1095 I use will rust easily, and I can put a patina on it right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyRhoads View Post
    Lots of great information i'll go over when I get a few minutes, thanks. I didn't know that was another name for 1095. So any 1095 I use will rust easily, and I can put a patina on it right?
    Schrade has recently used the 1095 steel for their new survival knife and can't keep them in stock:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

    I talked to a customer service rep for the company and she told me that this was one of their "hot" items and that they couldn't keep them on the shelves! ....
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    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    Their heat treat temp is listed at 1650. The range for heat treating 1095 is fairly wide. I use 1525. I do not use their tempering temps. Their low range (700 degrees) will yield a Rockwell hardness of 55 which is a bit soft IMO for a field knife. The trick is finding the balance. You want a knife that will hold an edge so that you don't want to sharpen it every five minutes but not so hard that you cannot sharpen it in the field. I temper at 450.
    The key here is that with 1095 there is nothing in these directions that can not be done with a simple forge, or even a welding torch, and the oven in your kitchen if you have a good oven thermometer.

    O1 and O2 are also very forgiving and easy to work.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

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