Does any other knife company use the 'axis lock' that benchmade uses? As I have never seen it used on another brand however in Aus we are fairly limited in our choices
Does any other knife company use the 'axis lock' that benchmade uses? As I have never seen it used on another brand however in Aus we are fairly limited in our choices
Don't know if another locking mechanism is used that is the same/similar. If so, I suspect it won't be called axis lock - probably a proprietary name.
Has anybody ever had the locking mechanism on their folder fail? I have heard of smith and Wesson folders failing under medium to heavy use especially if a form of grease or blood etc gets in the frame lock, I have never owned a smith and Wesson but they seem quite cheap so I guess u get what u pay for in that case. Probably ok knives for general jobs such as opening packages or light cutting such as use as a food prep knife or something
I have a few S&W folders and have not had any problems with them. I have had several of the no name, bought at a gun show, pos folders fail though.
When I think of a folder with a lock on it I think of my Buck Whitaker...which seems to not being made anymore. The same blade set up is on my Buck Multi-tool...which is not being made anymore. However it is also on the Extract model, which currently in production.
SARGE
"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe."
Albert Einstein
Proud father of a US Marine....SEMPER FI!
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Vic
http://www.swissknifeshop.com/shop/s...-soldier-knife
I bought mine 25 years ago. It's a little different (no locking blade) and I think I paid $15 for it. It's been a great piece of gear and it's been all over the world. I've done all kinds of maintenance with it from GTO's to airplanes.
That's not a serrated blade - it's a saw. You probably won't have the need to sharpen it.
I think the main blade appears to be mostly serrate in addition to the saw blade.
I started out with a little two blade pocket knife without a lock. Then a BSA knife without a lock. Then everybody carried Buck 110, Uncle Henry or Old timer lock usually in a leather sheath on your belt. Then I went through my butterfly knife faze . That is where the band-aids came in most handy...
But, given that most of us probably started out with out any type of locking mechanism at all. How is it that a locking mechanism can cause us to be cut when it fails? Do you suppose that maybe we forget safety when there is a built in safety?
Seems like it is possible after all. (I had no idea)
http://www.swissknifeshop.com/tri-se...nife-sharpener
Has anyone tried to sharpen a serrated edge?
I have sharpened a serrated blade with a small jewelers file. A few of my knives have serrations, but for the most part I don't care all that much for them.
I have a small knife sharpener that has a small fold out file just for sharpenening serrated blades. I have never tried it but it has diamond dust on it and should work quite well.
Most serrated blades have one flat side. With these knifes, if you only need relatively minor sharpening, and no substantial correction, you can simply treat that flat without diverging from it more than barely and get it back to brand new very quickly. What is meant here is that you don't want to be rounding it to a convex edge, or adding a secondary bevel. you certainly don't want to be digging into the flat. If you diverge from the plane more that a little this will only work a few times before you have to go to the other and dress the inside of the serrations.
Any sufficiently advanced incompetence is indistinguishable from malice - Grey's Law.
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In reference to the SCHRADE + steel. It is 440a. despite some peoples dislike for 440a, it's actually a great knife steel. It has higher carbon and chromium than 420hc and properly heat treated like schrades were, they take and hold a great edge. I believe that if you took 440a and did the same heat & cryo treatment that buck does these days, it would be be even better than the 420hc buck uses.
My fav EDC is my boker copperhead. It is small enough to easily carry yet substantial enough to do some serious work.
The blades have enough heft and size but are small enough to be nimble and useable. 012.jpg
Couple of weeks ago I spoke out in favor of the Buck 110. I haven't changed my opinion of that excellent classic. However, I just got a Victorinox Pioneer and although it is much smaller than the Buck, it too is a winner. I plan to use it as a pocket knife or as an addition to one of my fanny packs.
Honestly, I'm still carrying the same Buck I've had for about 35 years. Its seen a lot of action and never let me down. I also use a WW II K bar my father brought back with him.
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