sheaths?

[huskymill]

Hey everyone, wow it’s been a long time since I’ve been on here, anyway I had a question and thought this would be the best place to get it answered. I have a few knives that I really like. Unfortunately the sheaths on most of them are disappointing. It seems to me that though these knives are great knives, as an overall system they lack something. I got my first deer this season I am already planning on making a sheath for my Gerber lmf out of the scraps from the hide. Aside from making my own sheaths, what would you suggest? What is the best knife and factory sheath system in your opinion? I’m not sure I’m really looking for another knife at the moment but still I think it’s an interesting topic for discussion.

[crashdive123]

The "best" is very subjective. I've seen custom sheaths that run over $350. They are built like tanks and look good, but I don't know if they are better than the $75 custom sheath, or one that you make yourself.

For me - there is more satisfaction knowing that I made it, but we all have different factors that influence our preferences.

[TresMon]

Well leather is nice and has a good feel. It's asthetic. Kinda like they say "wood is warm." But-

I suggest a kydex sheath. That is a form molded plastic sheath. It will last you practically forever, it is waterproof. Leather sheaths will eventually soak up water in bad wether and keep your blade wet 24/7 after that. Also leather sheaths hold mildew & bacteria.

There is good google info on how to make your own kydex sheaths........

[huskymill]

im really just looking for opinions so subjective is sorta what im looking for. i dont really have alot of experience with kydex. the few sheaths ive seen first hand, only like 3, were either too tight and made it hard to remove the blade smoothly and quietly, or they were too loose and the blade rattled in the sheath. and i think one i saw was both too tight around the handle and it still rattled. are these normal problems or were they all just really poorly made sheaths?

[crashdive123]

Most Kydex sheaths are designed to hold the knife tightly. Some may loosen over time, but are relatively easy to "tune up".

[TresMon]

well ot be honest I have not owned or used dozens of Kydex sheaths. I have experience with three. That, statistically speaking is a teeny sample. But, my three have worked flawlessly and have not given me any of the troubles you mentioned- save for maybe a little "plastic drag" noise when I pull the knife out. It can be done quiet enough though.

Sounds like you have been around cheap- high production kydex sheaths (enter: United Cutlery) or poorly done home made jobs......

[kyratshooter]

Nice thing about Kydex is that you can use a heat gun to "tune" it to your taste. Even a microwave will work in a pinch.

Deer hide is not going to make a strong, durable sheath, unless it was one mean old buck with a real thick hide.

I have found that it takes a lot of practice and good leather selection to make outstanding sheaths. I make a lot of them, have been doing so for years, and I am not there yet.

One thing about Crash's knives is the knifecrafting is only half the job. His sheaths fit the blades like a glove, look nice and are built like a tank. If anything ever goes wrong with one of his knives you could tie a piece of 550 cord to the sheath and use that to beat a motorcycle gang into submission.

[lucznik]

My vote would be for leather. It's quieter, it's heck for stout, it looks better, it feels better, and it's more traditional. Oh yeah, and did I mention it's quieter?

Leather sheaths are like carbon steel blades, wood arrows, traditional bows. They (might) take a little more effort to care for, but they can be warm, unique, and individual in a way that modern materials just can't imitate.

[jake abraham]

I like leather sheaths myself

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Properly constructed leather sheath, properly treated will not stay wet.

[TresMon]

I had a $250 custom knife succumb to a damp leather sheath that was worthy of a $250 custom knife on a 7 day "knife only" survival outing. I could do nothing about it till the end of the trek. Then it was too late- it was horribly pitted. Never again.
Just sayin'

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

I had a $250 custom knife succumb to a damp leather sheath that was worthy of a $250 custom knife on a 7 day "knife only" survival outing. I could do nothing about it till the end of the trek. Then it was too late- it was horribly pitted. Never again.
Just sayin'

Lol...no $250 purchased knifes here....simple enough...beeswax or snowseal...Me I use saddle fenders with some 100's of ounces of lexol, followed by beeswax or snowseal to make a sheath..Next time get the grease from your nose and ears and wipe her down..... gees!

[Camp10]

Im a leather sheath fan. If it is treated right, it wont hold or take on water unless you swim in it. Kydex is loud, tight fitting and slippery when wet. I dont like hard plastic rubbing against me and it gives a very "cheap" feel to what could be a good knife. I do agree with Krat... deer might be a nice looking inlay but it wont hold up to the life of a sheath. A leather sheath will wear with the knife and tell it's own hunting stories after many years, I like the looks of a well loved, leather sheath and a well loved handmade knife!

[gryffynklm]

I Agree with every thing said leather VS Kydex. Most of my sheaths are leather made to suit my needs (reenacting).

Stiffening and water proofing the leather.
I form the sheath sew it up, and boil it for 15 in in water which does two things. It leaches out some of the dye and corrosive chemicals from the leather processing . This prevents the leather from staining if it gets soaked in the field. It also shrinks the fibers and stiffens the leather. After its dry 105˚ in the oven for 90 min with the Vaseline smeared blade in usually does it. In the winter it goes on under the wood stove. I have done two waxed sheaths for a friend. When its dry, I remove the blade and simmer the sheath in bee's wax in a pan until it stops bubbling. This allows the wax to absorb into the fibers. After its waxed I put the sheath on some baking parchment paper on a cookie sheet set at an angle in the oven at 130˚ for 20 min to allow excess wax to flow from the sheath. After its cooled I buff the leather with a soft cloth. The blade is snug but loosens up a bit after working it in and out of the sheath. This helps keeps moisture from soaking into the leather. If moisture gets into the sheath LOL, this keeps it in until you dry it out. This is my new method and although seems to be a good process has not seen enough time and field time to expose problems.

My sheaths are set for the purpose they are intended. considering the re enactor stuff I do, knives intended for defense sit an the belt at an angle sit under the belt against the body and are located ether at the small of the back with the handle pointing to the use hand or on the hip opposite the use hand facing forward. Utility knives are often drop off the belt next to the use hand or a neck sheath with a breakaway cord at the sheath.

The style of sheath is a mater of use for me. How do you se using and carrying some of these blades.

[Beans]

Well leather is nice and has a good feel. It's asthetic. Kinda like they say "wood is warm." But-

. Leather sheaths will eventually soak up water in bad wether and keep your blade wet 24/7 after that. Also leather sheaths hold mildew & bacteria.

There is good google info on how to make your own kydex sheaths........

And can cause rust!!!!!

[Skinner]

Yep Same Here Leather All the Way . Just Find you Some Leatherand Make One or More for All your Knives.

[finallyME]

I like Kydex and leather. I have both types of sheaths and find no problem with either.

[kyratshooter]

I Agree with every thing said leather VS Kydex. Most of my sheaths are leather made to suit my needs (reenacting).

My sheaths are set for the purpose they are intended. considering the re enactor stuff I do, knives intended for defense sit an the belt at an angle sit under the belt against the body and are located ether at the small of the back with the handle pointing to the use hand or on the hip opposite the use hand facing forward. Utility knives are often drop off the belt next to the use hand or a neck sheath with a breakaway cord at the sheath.

The style of sheath is a mater of use for me. How do you se using and carrying some of these blades.

The difference in fighting style they used in the old days was often a factor of how the knife was carried. They used the knife in the left hand, blade tip down, so the knife was often carried on the left side rather than the right or in front so it was available to either hand. The tomahawk or a sword was usually in the right hand.

I am left handed, but shoot right handed, which keeps the knife on the opposite side as my handgun by choice and not necessity. I also spend most of my woods time/camp time in 18th century clothing and gear and I have pretty much gotten used to having the knife on the left side.

Additionally, my large reenactment blades do not have belt loops. They have a leather tab that prevents them slipping through the belt. It makes them easy to slip in and out of the carry position. Mid-sized blades of around 4" I usually attach to a belt pouch and wear as an article of clothing (no pockets or belt loops on 18th century pants).

I also wear a neck knife and have a patch knife on each shooting bag, so at a reenactment I am pretty much covered with various sizes of blades.

Like you,I carry the knife sheath over to the Jackware side of things. I just use commercial perrifin wax to saturate the leather. I sit the wax on top of the sheath and put them on a plate in the microwave until the wax melts and flows into the sheath like water. If there is metal on the sheath I put them in the oven.

You can make a dandy leather canteen this way too. Even the seams will not leak.

[Winter]

There's an old boy in Denmark that makes leather kydex combo sheaths. They are expensive.

My leather sheaths are my favorite sheaths. I'm in a salt water environment in a rainforest and often carry a $300 custom. It has rust on it, I don't care. It makes not a bit of differance in the knifes performance.

[oldtrap59]

When I was a kid I was a baseball player. Dad always told me to work mink oil into my glove to protect the leather. Later I used the oil to protect my leather boots. Makes them softer and helps to waterproof. Would it help to work it into a leather sheath? Didn't see mink oil mentioned so just asking.

Oldtrap