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Thread: Oil Cloth recipe

  1. #101

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    I was wondering if this recipe could be used on heavy twill fabric like that used on Carhartt, Dickie, Wolverine, etc jackets/vests. I like the look of (not to mention functionality of) oilskin. My concern is with the fabric being not as tight a weave it will soak through and ruin the Sherpa lining (which these days is polyester). Maybe there is a better suggestion?


  2. #102
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    It will soak through and saturate the lining on a pre-made garment.

    However, it will work on cotton twill or other fabrics such as denim, twill, duck or lightweight fabrics such as bed sheeting.

    For garments I would suggest a tin-cloth treatment. I am working on the recipe as we speak. I have developed a good recipe but it is going to be time intensive and the patience factor will get to some folks.

    Even the tin-cloth treatment is going to ruin the fuzzy linings such as fleece. If the garment is lined with regular cloth it will simply saturate the lining like the outer shell and one could break it in as they wear the item.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

  3. #103

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    That sounds interesting Man! I look forward to reading about that. Is there any weatherproofing that you can think of that you WOULD use on something lined? The commercial stuff just stinks in my opinion and I've got some stuff that could use it for those rainy mountain mornings...

  4. #104
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    Looks like you are stuck with Scotch Guard or Camp Dry.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

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    IMG_3902.jpgIMG_3904.jpg

    Easiest project ever.

    Cost me about thirty bucks in materials including the sheet that i used and less than twenty minutes of work all up.

    Was dry in two days and tested with a hose and worked well in repelling and shedding water, it'll never be as good as a shop bought uber swish tarp but for what it cost and the work involved, i'm more than happy!

  6. #106
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    QUICK DRY QUESTION : I asked my roofer about the ammonia smell in the elastomeric ... he said the more ammonia the faster it dry's. I've used it now in other painting experiments and have been pleased. Do any of you chemist/ experimenters know if ammonia added to the 50/50 recipe in this thread would be dangerous ? .... before I try it.

    NOTE ON THOSE CHEAP BLUE TARPS : ... and it doesn't matter what you pay for them, UV eats them up in no time flat. I lay mine on the ground and roll on elastomeric. I've been using a Dollar Store one for several years now as a covering outside. I'm in sever Arizona heat & UV. It's been GREAT not to replace tarps every time I turn around !

    Thank You for all your post...keep making new memories ! Jae

  7. #107
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    You can add anything to it you wish. You will screw it up, but you can add anything you wish.

    And do not modify the instruction or contents and come back here or run to another forum and claim the recipe you got here did not work!

    If you want quicker drying time use a higher mineral spirit to linseed oil ratio. Mineral spirits are the dryer in this formula, but if you do not have enough oil you defeat the purpose and God only knows what ammonia will do to the blend.

    You are still going to have several days drying time and a week or two for getting the smell out.

    Adding anything to this mix is guaranteed to screw it up in some way.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

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    Thank you ! and Love the attitude

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jae View Post
    Thank you ! and Love the attitude
    The attitude comes from being a teacher for 35 years in an era when every student thinks there is an exception to every rule and they are it!

    You give instructions/rules and the first thing that happens is some student, never one of the genesis, raises their hand an asks, "But what if?"

    It overflows to here.

    You give the simplest instructions; 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits-hang it in the shade for a week, and you get 108 posts asking "But what if???"
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

  10. #110
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    Default Oil cloth

    Just tried painting the oil cloth mixture onto a large outdoor cushion cover.what a missinon. It wouldn't soak into the material of canvas. Pegged it up first, couldn't penetrative matrial. Lay it flat on table also didn't work. So found big enough container and dipped it in. Worked well but how the he'll can one dip a Tent??!!
    Will wait for 2 weeks for it to dry to see how water proof it Is! Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the mixture to the material/canvas?
    It's hanging on the line, just thought maybe the small bit I had to turn overy to peg it up might ignite in our 36 ° Temps here?
    Last edited by Wendy; 09-06-2016 at 08:48 AM. Reason: Chat and advice please

  11. #111
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    I remember older people using a mix like that on tents and things. I never knew what was in it except wax and was often curious about it. I have seen some white wax toilet rings tho.

  12. #112
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wendy View Post
    Just tried painting the oil cloth mixture onto a large outdoor cushion cover.what a missinon. It wouldn't soak into the material of canvas. Pegged it up first, couldn't penetrative matrial. Lay it flat on table also didn't work. So found big enough container and dipped it in. Worked well but how the he'll can one dip a Tent??!!
    Will wait for 2 weeks for it to dry to see how water proof it Is! Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the mixture to the material/canvas?
    It's hanging on the line, just thought maybe the small bit I had to turn overy to peg it up might ignite in our 36 ° Temps here?
    Your cushion cover was probably already treated with some waterproof system. Fabric problem, not a chemical problem.

    On normal untreated fabric it will soak and penetrate the fibers with no problem at all. I have used it many times to re-treat tents that had lost their waterproofing and had no problems when applying with a paintbrush.

    Cylon even applied it with a garden pressure sprayer.



    The wax toilet rings are for over in the tin-cloth thread.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

  13. #113

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    I just had to register to comment on this thread.

    First off raw linseed oil is the same as Flax Oil. In other words, Linseed oil is what dribbles out when you compress Flax Seeds. Given enough time it will polymerize (NOT DRY by evaporation of components) into a hard film. The polymerization gives off heat, which is why oily rags if left in a pile can generate and retain enough heat to spontaneously combust. Raw linseed oil is also a mildew magnate because it contains impurities (sugars and starches) that result from pressing the Flax seeds that the mildew then happily feeds on.

    In the olden days raw linseed oil was boiled before using because it reduced the "drying" (polymerization) time and also purified the oil a bit so that it was less attractive to mildew. It frequently had metallic agents (catalysts) added to it to decrease the "drying" (polymerization) time. The commonly used lead oxide also made it very mildew resistant. Unfortunately the most effective agents are also the most toxic and are no longer used.

    Nowadays, what you can buy at Home Depot that is labeled "Boiled Linseed Oil" is not really raw boiled linseed oil. It is raw linseed oil that has various chemicals (catalysts) added to it that decrease the "drying" (polymerization) time.

    You can buy real raw linseed oil, or raw boiled linseed oil here:

    solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm#linseedoil

    but don't believe them when they say it is mildew free or resistant. It is not, spoken from experience.

    All of these products remain flammable, even when "dried", as does plain cotton fabric.

    Now, because I have never been able to simply follow a recipe or color within the lines, I am experimenting with the tried and true recipe using borax to fireproof the oilskin. I have mixed up a super-saturated batch of borax and water that I wetted out the cotton with and once dry will then coat with 50/50 mineral spirits/commercial boiled linseed oil. I'll report back some day.

    If it works, even if it doesn't, I might spring for some of the Allback raw boiled linseed oil for my oilcloth tarp just to keep its simple, old fashioned, and non-toxic. I'll just have to be very cautions about putting it away wet to keep the mildew at bay.

    Best regards,

    Monel

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