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Thread: Knife Build Along

  1. #41
    Senior Member BENESSE's Avatar
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    I can't imagine giving or getting a more meaningful gift. It's provenance and the accompanying description of how it came to be, is truly inspired.


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    how long did u that the blade in oven?

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    The initial heat treatment was to 1525 degrees (F) and then quenched in oil. The temper was done at 450 degrees and held for two hours then allowed to cool slowly in the oven. The temper process was repeated twice.
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    Crash, you are a true craftsman and it is an honor to see your work through the process to finished product.

  5. #45
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Thanks. It was this forum that got me interested in knife making. I just hope I can help somebody else along the way that has an interest.
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    Senior Member Skinner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    Thanks. It was this forum that got me interested in knife making. I just hope I can help somebody else along the way that has an interest.
    Yep the Same goese for Me on Peaking my Intrest in Knife Making .And as for Helping somebody else You have watching you Make your Knives and Learning as I Go Has Help me Get Better Every day . Thank you for your Help you have Given and Will Give in the future
    To Fail Is to Learn from your Mistakes and Advanced off of that Failure.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    The initial heat treatment was to 1525 degrees (F) and then quenched in oil. The temper was done at 450 degrees and held for two hours then allowed to cool slowly in the oven. The temper process was repeated twice.
    describes the process: 450 degrees first (twice), then 1250 degrees at the end and quenched in oil???? or vice versa????

  8. #48
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    After the Initial grinding the steel needs to be hardened. That was done by heating it up to 1525 degrees Fahrenheit and then quickly cooling the steel by dunking it into motor oil that had been warmed to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The knife at this point is very hard, but also brittle. After it was cleaned up it was tempered (or some of that hardness was drawn out) by heating it to 450 degrees and allowing it to cool slowly. Once it had cooled to room temperature, the process of heating it up to 450 degrees and allowing it to cool slowly was repeated. After that the final grinding was done - being careful to not heat up the steel, as that would change the temper.
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  9. #49
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    how long do u treat the blade at 1525 degrees?

  10. #50
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Once it reaches that temperature I remove it from the oven and quench it. I do not "soak" it at that temperature. There is a range of temperatures that are effective for this type of steel. The temperature I use is toward the high end of that range, plus it takes my oven quite a while to get up to that temperature so the steel is most likely as hot as it is going to get at that point.
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    Hey, I love your work! Do you get any scale on your metal after heat treat? I haven't broke down and bought an oven yet. I simply treat mine in a coal/bellow fire. It creates a marbly scale that I have actually grown fond of.

  12. #52
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I do get a lot of scale on the liquid cooled quenches - the air cooled, not so much.
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    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    Can you explain how you pin the micarta to the blade? I'm a little confused on what keeps them and the handle in place. Once they're in does the grinder/sander take off the ends to make them flush with the handle?

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    Randy, they keep the slabs from moving parallel to the tang. They also make the handle more rigid, especially with fabric laminates.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyRhoads View Post
    Can you explain how you pin the micarta to the blade? I'm a little confused on what keeps them and the handle in place. Once they're in does the grinder/sander take off the ends to make them flush with the handle?
    The way I find easiest (there are multiple ways) is to glue up one side, let it dry, drill through the holes in the tang through the newly attached handle material, glue up the other side, let it dry, drill through the holes you just made in the handle (first side you attached) to go through the second side, glue pins in place.

    The ends of the micarta slabs that are facing the blade need to be pretty much how you want them before attaching. They can be made thinner, but that end would be difficult to manipulate. All other areas of the handle can readily be shaped or made flush with the tang.
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    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    So the pins are just epoxied in, and the outside excess pin can be grinded down to make it flush with the handle. Cool thanks.

  17. #57
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Yep - they are a tight fit and need to be persuaded in with a hammer, but the epoxy ensures the won't be leaving for another knife. Additionally, I score the pins so the epoxy has something to grab onto. Just chuck up the pin material (before you cut it) in a drill, wrap a little sand paper around the rod, turn on the drill.

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  18. #58
    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics! Where do you get these "pins", and what are they called?

  19. #59
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    A variety of sources. Brass rod from a hobby store, bronze and aluminum rod from a welding supply place, nickle silver rod from a knife supply place, copper wire from scrap bin or copper ground wire from Home Depot.... really - anything that has the diameter that you want. Still on my to try list is bamboo pins.
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  20. #60
    Senior Member RandyRhoads's Avatar
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    Thanks, just picked up some chicago style screws to try, but i'm not liking the idea of a screw head on one side. No one at home depot had any idea what I could use besides those.

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