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Thread: Lemme axe you a question (axe oiling)

  1. #1

    Default Lemme axe you a question (axe oiling)

    For fathers day I got a Gransfors Bruks small forest axe. What an absolute treat to use.

    The book that came with it said to keep it in good shape and prevent rusting to oil it once in a while.

    What kind of oil is preferable? I've read "machine oil" and also WD-40.

    Can anyone comment on the WD-40 or suggest anything more specific?

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Machine oil was what my grandfather and father used. But then, that's about all that was available. That and motor oil. WD-40 is mostly mineral spirits so it will displace moisture and penetrate into the metal. I think it has a lot less to do with which type of oil you use and a lot more about keeping them clean, using some type of oil and storing them properly. Wood debris and dirt left on any tool will collect moisture and cause the tool to rust. Touch up the axe after use if you need to, clean it and wipe it down with a good oil. Store it so the head is not sitting on dirt or a garage floor and you should be fine.
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    So I guess "machine oil" is "a good oil" ? And are you saying that wd-40 is good or bad?

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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Personally, I think they are both good. There's probably other opinions on even better oils out there and I'm sure there will be all kinds of recommendations posted here. Keeping it clean, lightly oiled and stored off the ground are the important parts.
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    Perfect, that's the info i needed. I pushed on the wd-40 front only cause i have lots of it !

    Now I'll go enjoy my axe some more... that just sounds dirty but awesome at the same time.

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    You'll be fine with WD-40.
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    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    I'll vote WD-40 as well, great stuff, use it all the time.
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    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    And if it has a leather sheath do not store it in the leather.

    Any kind of grease or oil will preserve the metal, even lard.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Very good point on the sheath, KY. Not so good on the lard thingie, though. If you lick the wrong part of the axe then you mite be talkin funny fhrom now on.
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  10. #10

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    Ain't that true. I could shave with it.

    While we're all on the topic, can we talk sharpening? I have a stone that has been kicking around my toolbox for ages. I'm not sure if its a wet stone, or a dry stone. It's guaranteed to be some bargain basement special i picked up years ago. Its about 2 inches x 5 inches with 2 sides of different shades of grey. Specific I know.

    How do I tell which it is?

    I've used it dry on my Axe and after about 30 to 40 seconds of work the axe is right back in factory sharpness, but I don't want to do anything to stupid and use it the way I shouldn't be.

    Also, what does the "wet" part of a wetstone do? I've seen people on the net use things like "orange cleaners" to wd40, to water to oil with them and don't quite understand it.

    Thanks again!

  11. #11
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    It sounds like what you are describing could be an oil stone. Look at the side where you can see the two halves sandwiched together. One should look more porous than the other - that is the more coarse of the two.

    Also - it's not wet, but rather whet in whetstone. Whet is the process of sharpening. Some whetstones used dry, with water, with oil. Their name will indicate which. Japanese water stone is an example.

    The liquid medium that you add (oil, water) is to carry or float the metal particles that you are removing from the edge away from the work area.
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    If the liquid carries away the particles.. why would a person use a dry one?

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    Senior Member Bushman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    It sounds like what you are describing could be an oil stone. Look at the side where you can see the two halves sandwiched together. One should look more porous than the other - that is the more coarse of the two.

    Also - it's not wet, but rather whet in whetstone. Whet is the process of sharpening. Some whetstones used dry, with water, with oil. Their name will indicate which. Japanese water stone is an example.

    The liquid medium that you add (oil, water) is to carry or float the metal particles that you are removing from the edge away from the work area.
    On these double sided stones I always used to use 30 weight engine oil.......then one day I was 'out' of the stuff and while washing my hands noted that plain old dishwashing liquid has about the same properties as oil.........and tried that.

    It works !!

    Best part is; that you can then put the stone under the hot water tap and wash all the crap off after use.........no more 'oily stones' gathering dust and cobwebs in your shed !!

    nb// these stones WILL wear down with long use, they aint that hard !!

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelnwool View Post
    If the liquid carries away the particles.. why would a person use a dry one?
    Depends on the stone. Some are natural materials, while others are synthetic. It all depends on their design as to which method is most efficient for that stone.
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  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by kyratshooter View Post
    And if it has a leather sheath do not store it in the leather.

    Any kind of grease or oil will preserve the metal, even lard.
    On this topic, do you mean store it bare and use the sheath for transport only? (It may seem obvious, but I always ask )

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    Senior Member Camp10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steelnwool View Post
    On this topic, do you mean store it bare and use the sheath for transport only? (It may seem obvious, but I always ask )
    Yes, transport only. carbon steel shouldn't be stored in leather or it will rust.
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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Make certain you clean your whetstone after use. If you don't the metal from the axe will clog the pores of the stone and your axe or knife will eventually be riding on the metal, not on the stone. Cleaning the stone is pretty easy. I use water on my stones so I simply add some more water and work a paper towel or cloth in a circular motion. I continue to do that until the stone is clean again. You can do the very same thing if you use oil. Use a small amount of the same oil and work in a circular motion. If you need to add more oil then do so and use a clean portion of the rag. You'll see the difference once the stone is clean again.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member Camp10's Avatar
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    The best (IMO) lube to use on a stone is Simple Green. It will clean your stone to like new while you sharpen your knife. I read about this in Blade mag a year or so ago and have since tried it. The author of the article, Wayne Goddard, said he has brought stones that were junk back to service.
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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Cool. How does it clean while using it ... if you know? Some of the metal would still embed in the stone I would think. Gotta look that one up.
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  20. #20
    Ed edr730's Avatar
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    yes, soap will help to clean off the old oil on a stone....like simple green. No, the metal won't imbed in the stone if the soap isn't dried out. Hot water, gasoline or the woodstove too will clean a stone. Rubbing the stone on some flat concrete can take off the old sticky oil pretty quick too. I usually clean an old stone first thing, then just spit on the stone while I use it whether or not it's been used with oil.

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