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Thread: Bearing Block Sheath

  1. #1
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Default Bearing Block Sheath

    There was a discussion recently about bow drill fires. A couple of people mentioned that the bearing block was one of the more difficult components to make in the bush, along with cordage that works. This got me to thinking (sometimes dangerous, but worked out OK this time). I have seen a couple of knife manufacturers put dimples in their knife scales so that it could be used as a bearing block. I decided to incorporate that into a sheath, along with some storage for cordage – without wrapping the cordage around the sheath. Here is what I came up with.

    First cut out all of the leather pieces (not pictured are the paper templates that were made. The scissors were only used on the thin leather, while a razor knife and metal straight edge were used to cut the thicker leather.

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    A skateboard wheel bearing is used for the bearing, with wet formed leather holding it in place. A 15/16” hole was cut to wet form the leather. Thicker leather would require a larger hole. A small block of wood was used to form the pocket.

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    The leather is then dry fit. By doing this before the stitching grooves are cut you will get a more uniform look around the edges of the sheath. Then the stitching grooves are cut and the sewing holes are punched. Front and back pieces are punched individually to get a uniform look front and back. I’ve seen more experienced leather workers put their holes in after everything was glued up. I’m not to that skill level yet. Drilling the holes is an effective way of preparing as well. In fact, I find that working with thicker pieces that drilling makes the sewing much easier. The punched slits are really just moving the grain out of the way. They do tighten up.

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    Accessories are glued and stitched to the front portion of the sheath. Then the front, rear and welt are glued together and stitched up. Finishing nails ensure that the holes are lined up for sewing.

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    The edges are sanded smooth using a belt sander (can be done by hand if sander is not available, but takes a while).

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    Edges are dressed.

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    Touch up with dye is done and edge coating is applied and loose edges are glued.

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    The leather still needs to be sealed. I use a product called Ultra Sheen.

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    Can't Means Won't

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  2. #2

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    Now THAT is a wilderness adventure waiting to happen!! Very ingenious Crash. I think if there were a pouch behind the cordage pouch for a sharpening stone, it would be absolutely, irrevocably perfect. The right knife, the perfect sheath. Indiana Jones eat your heart out!! The only thing missing is the tickets to adventure!!!
    Because a survival situation carries an aura of timelessness, a survivor cannot allow himself to be overcome by it's duration or quality. A survivor accepts the situation as it is and improves it from that standpoint. Prologue from Outdoor Survival Skills by Larry Dean Olsen

  3. #3

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    Interesting idea. I will be trying this for myself. Thanks

  4. #4
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    That is a heck of an idea,.....and well done.
    Thanks.
    Geezer Squad....Charter Member #1
    Evoking the 50 year old rule...
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  5. #5
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    H63 - you actually helped me with your wet forming tutorial that you did some time ago. Thanks.
    Can't Means Won't

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  6. #6
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    That's always nice to hear, your leather work is getting as nice as your knives, which is to say exceptional.
    Very nice, and a lot of thought, can't say if I ever saw a bearing block incorporated into a sheath.
    Geezer Squad....Charter Member #1
    Evoking the 50 year old rule...
    First 50 years...worried about the small stuff...second 50 years....Not so much
    Member Wahoo Killer knives club....#27

  7. #7

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    That's flipping awesome. Great job Crash.
    I Wonder Who was the first person to look at a cow and say, "I think I'll squeeze these dangly things here, and drink what ever comes out?"

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