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Thread: My First One Back

  1. #21
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OhioGrizzLapp View Post
    Very nice knife ........I really like your angles for the bevel of the edge. Have you made a sheath for it yet?

    What is its total weight?

    How was the 1095 to work with? How was it to sharpen?

    Do you seal the Crashcarta after a polish or just bring it to a natural polish?

    Will there be a matching ferro rod?
    No sheath yet, and I have to repair my "personalizer" to put my makers mark on the blade. This one weighs in at 10.75 ounces. I like working with 1095. It is relatively easy to grind, heat treat and sharpen. On my next trip to the supplier I use I want to pick up some that is a little thinner (1/8") to lighten up the blades. I make the Crashcarta with fiberglass resin, so no sealing needed. Maybe a firesteel to go along with it - haven't decided yet.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member randyt's Avatar
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    Beautiful knife, 1095 is a great steel. Do you soak the 1095 at temperature before quench? I've been wanting to use more of it but with my primitive equipment I don't know if its full potential is achieved with out the soak.

  3. #23
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melissa Montana View Post
    Looks pretty!
    Very impressed!
    Now how about a pink one?
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  4. #24
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyt View Post
    Beautiful knife, 1095 is a great steel. Do you soak the 1095 at temperature before quench? I've been wanting to use more of it but with my primitive equipment I don't know if its full potential is achieved with out the soak.
    I took this to 1625 degrees and held it for 5 minutes, then did a motor oil quench.
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  5. #25
    Senior Member randyt's Avatar
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    Thanks, I may try a muffle pipe and a thermocouple with a gas forge. Hopefully with the gas I will be able to hold the temps consistently.

  6. #26
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyt View Post
    Thanks, I may try a muffle pipe and a thermocouple with a gas forge. Hopefully with the gas I will be able to hold the temps consistently.
    Camp10 uses that method. I'll see if I can find where he describes how he does it.
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  7. #27
    Senior Member Camp10's Avatar
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    @ Crash, 1625 is very hot for 1095. 1525 is a much better temp for that steel.

    @ Randy, Yeah, the pipe works very well. It does take some practice. Get the pipe very hot then turn the gas as low as it will go without "poping". It should take several minutes to get to non-magnetic inside the pipe. Non-magnetic is about 1450-1475 and you are shooting for 1500-1525. The soak time is only a few minutes once you get to 1500 (I've played with all kinds of time and temps both with the forge and with my kiln) to get full hard. If you over heat it (beyond dull orange in color) let it cool slightly by running it in and out of the pipe but dont let it get below non-magnetic. Quench it as fast as you can get it from the fire and into your oil and make sure the oil is about 125 degrees to start. It will hold an edge very well with a temper of 375-425 for 90 minutes X2.
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  8. #28
    Senior Member randyt's Avatar
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    thanks for the info. do you use a t-couple with the muffle pipe?

  9. #29
    Senior Member Camp10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyt View Post
    thanks for the info. do you use a t-couple with the muffle pipe?

    No. I just use a magnet and never walk away through the process. You know the temp when it goes non-magnetic. The edge will go first so watch the colors and try to keep them even...like I said, practice.

    EDIT: If you have more questions I might help with you can PM me..I hate to take over Crash's thread!
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  10. #30
    Senior Member Skinner's Avatar
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    Looks Great ,Glad your Back Workin' on Knives Again .

  11. #31
    Senior Member Melissa Montana's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
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  12. #32
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    Crash - I need to get a Crash Blade this year!
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