Identify this gun?

[JPGreco]

So I was given a gun a few years ago for helping my friend's parents move out after a divorce. Her dad just handed it to me and said keep it as I was moving some of his stuff out of the basement. I don't know what kind of gun it is. I went to the maker's website, but I don't even know where to start looking.
Maker is Mossberg and the barrel opening width is about an inch across. I've been told bird gun, but is that considered a shotgun? Sorry, I pretty much don't know anything about guns other than which end you point at things you want to die..

The little dark square in the bottom left of this picture is a clip.
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[Rick]

Aren't there any markings on the barrel? Every gun I've ever had the caliber or gauge was marked on the barrel. Model 195? Is so, it's a 3 shot 12 gauge.

[OhioGrizzLapp]

Looks like a Mossberg or Savage (also sears, western auto and other name brand dept stores) bolt action shot gun. They are used mostly for hunting ...hence the 3 shot capacity. They are viable hunting guns and with the adjustable choke they can go from shot to slug/buck shot with just a turn of the choke.

Average value is about $150 on gunbroker.com

You can still get parts from places like http://www.gunpartscorp.com/

On the top middle of the barrel, there should be a makers roll stamp on the metal as well as a gage and size of the shotgun shell.

If you re-post here the stamped info, I can get you more detailed info. They are no longer made but were a staple hunting shotgun from the 1960's.

Here is a gun search for gunbroker.com
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/SearchResults.aspx

just type in "Bolt Action Shotgun" in the search box....it will come up with a list of bolt shotguns for sale right now.....

[JPGreco]

Wow, I totally missed it. Its pretty fine writing. Thanks.

It says:
Model Number 395 KA
12G C-Lect-Choke
Chambered for 2 3/4 and 3 inch Shells

So I take it is a small gauge shotgun off the 12G.

[JPGreco]

Thanks Grizz, thats a ton of good info. I have no idea if its ready to be fired or what kind of condition its in. Everything seems tight, no rattling. Bolt may need a little oiling.

I don't know how to adjust the choke.

What would this gun be used to hunt for?

[OhioGrizzLapp]

12 ga is pretty large. The K-A bolt was after a recall that the 195 bolts were shattering from magnum shells being used. The K-A bolts can take ANY 12ga shells sold or found out there. It would be good for any game in North America except Bear, Moose and larger Caribu.

I would honestly suggest to take to a gun shop to have checked out, cleaned and certified as good to go. After that, have fun with it, they are built like trucks and rarely can you hurt one. The choke system is full - modified, cylinder and Improved.....if you use slugs set the choke to cylinder setting, if you go for Turkey use FULL and if you go for squirrels and other small game, use full or modified.

The choke is adjusted by turning it to the correct choke size, after assuring the gun is UNLOADED, grab the choke tube with your hand and turn it. There should either be words or colored dots. If colored dots, let me know and I will get the code/color/choke set up for you. . Choking a shotgun barrel allows for a more wide (modified) to a more closed (full) shot pattern based on the game or shooting condition you desire.

It is one of the most sought out bolt shotgun right now.... many survivalists and hunters like the ease and simple operation/maintenance that comes with this gun.

Here is a parts print.

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[JPGreco]

You are the man Grizz. Thanks so much. The diagram is great too. I always liked it, something about bolt actions I like, just never got around to figuring out exactly what it was and such till now. The fact that its a sought after survivalists gun and I ended up here asking about it is kind of funny too.

I will definitely be getting it checked out before I would try to fire it. Just don't know when I will get around to that. Not sure if Dicks Sporting Goods would be a good place to take it, but thats the only store around here I know of off hand.

[JPGreco]

haha, well, I was looking near the bolt for the choke. If not for the parts list, I would have never found it.

It has a staggered line like stairs and as you screw and unscrew the choke the back end of it lines up with one of the three lines. Next to each line it says something.

Looks a little like this:

|_ 1 Cyl. (might be an I instead of a 1, can't tell)
...|_ Mod
......|_ Full

Pretty straight forward from your earlier post.

[OhioGrizzLapp]

Noooooooooooooooo not Dicks, they are usually kids working the counter (I mean you can call them to see if they really have someone that knows guns....BUT). Places like Gander Mountain, Cabelas and Bass Pro have knowledgable gun folks. Any gun shop or gun dealer should be able to OK it for you. If none of them are around, look for hunting/shooting clubs and skeet ranges near you, they usually have an gun guru around somewhere.

The most important issue is the barrel. If someone tried to shoot slugs from it while it is set on FULL choke, there may well be a buldge in the barrel, you can check this by running your hand down the barrel, a buldge is easy to detect and most likely will be in the front half of the barrel. I run a gun business here at the house and online and am a certified gun smith as well (Penn Gun College 2002)... if you were near me, I would gladly check it out and clean it for free. If the gun does have a buldged barrel, it is easy enough fixed and retreated to original and will cost about $75 to do.

After checked out, I would suggest using a box of low power skeet loads in like # 7-8-9 shot size and LOW Brass on the shell. This gun KICKS like a mule, even with the rubber butt pad if you have it. Then graduate up to the more powerful buckshot loads.

If you cannot find anyone to check it, I can do so, if you pay S&H both ways via UPS. If you need that, PM me for my address, I will charge you nothing for the service of check out and cleaning, only the to and from S&H, whatever UPS charges (usually like $25 each way).

[JPGreco]

haha, yeah, I wish I had a cabela's around here. I was actually talking to my coworker and joked that I wouldn't even buy a gun from Dicks because of that very reason. I want someone who knows their product to buy from.

I'll look around though for someone who really knows whats up. There is a big shooting range near by that may be able to lead me in the right direction.

Also, this site is great. You are the second person who has offered to do something for me for free. Good group of people here for sure. Thanks so much for the offer and the info in general. It would have taken me days to find all of it, maybe longer.

[OhioGrizzLapp]

To take the BOLT out and inspect the inside of the barrel. Make sure it is UNLOADED, then pull the trigger as you are taking the bolt out to the rear, remember to remove the magazine before doing so. The bolt is replaced by pulling the trigger as you insert the bolt back in, super simple to clean and inspect. Oh, remember to get a real basic 12ga shotgun cleaning kit, even walmart & kmart sell those as does cabelas, bass pro and gander mtn. .

IT IS OK to pull the trigger to dry fire it, these bolt guns firing pins are made to survive dang near anything, you can also buy a thing called "Snap Caps" from cabelas, gander or bass Pro online at their sights, you can even get ammo from there if they ship to Nuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu York (doubt it being Long Island, you might have to go to Dicks for the ammo), the snap caps are the same size as the ammo but usually clear red and allow you to safely dry fire the gun, but really, for this gun you do not need them.

[JPGreco]

To take the BOLT out and inspect the inside of the barrel. Make sure it is UNLOADED, then pull the trigger as you are taking the bolt out to the rear, remember to remove the magazine before doing so. The bolt is replaced by pulling the trigger as you insert the bolt back in, super simple to clean and inspect. Oh, remember to get a real basic 12ga shotgun cleaning kit, even walmart & kmart sell those as does cabelas, bass pro and gander mtn. .

IT IS OK to pull the trigger to dry fire it, these bolt guns firing pins are made to survive dang near anything, you can also buy a thing called "Snap Caps" from cabelas, gander or bass Pro online at their sights, you can even get ammo from there if they ship to Nuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu York (doubt it being Long Island, you might have to go to Dicks for the ammo), the snap caps are the same size as the ammo but usually clear red and allow you to safely dry fire the gun, but really, for this gun you do not need them.

That is very good to know. I try not to dryfire it as much as possible, but when I was looking for the choke I did a couple of times (cause I'm dumb... lol). I put it away for now, I'll look at it later or this weekend closer. I also like that you keep saying making sure it is unloaded. The mark of a real gun pro. I know the gun is unloaded and there is no ammo for it, but every time I pick it up the first thing I do is open the bolt and look.

[BH51]

JP'........the (I) before the cylinder setting on the adjustable choke is likely an
abreviation for Improved, as in "Improved Cylinder"...which means it is fully open
for say bird hunting in close cover conditions and is suggest best for shooting
slugs as well, rather than fully closed as one might think which is "Full choke"
best for distance and close patterns for say, squirrel hunting....The Modified
or "Mod" position best for rabbit & dove....I'd avoid trying to tightening the
choke beyond the "Full choke" position....I grew up quail hunting and one of
my shotguns has an adjustable choke similarly.................................BH51

[JPGreco]

Thanks, that makes sense. The choke seems loose. If I turn it to the "mod" position, or the "Cyl" position, there is no pressure on the choke to hold it. Not sure if its supposed to be like that since its basically a nut on a thread though.

[OhioGrizzLapp]

The way to set a adjustable choke is as follows:

Make sure the gun is unloaded

1. Finger tighten the choke to where it will NOT turn any more, do NOT force it further as you can break one of the tines of the inner choke.

2. Back off or loosen the choke two(2) full turns.

3. Now, set the choke to the desired choke you want, it should stay in place unless you adjust it again.

Note: Too tight of a choke can BLOW the end of the barrel off or at least buldge the barrel. Too loose of a choke and the outer adjustable part can shoot off and head down range along with the projectile you are shooting. If the choke stays loose no matter what and will NOT click on the desired choke, then your "Indent Ball" inside of the choke is gone or one of the tines are cracked or missing. This will require a gunsmith to replace as the indent ball needs to be staked in. DO NOT use a item like Lock Tight or JB weld to keep the choke on. The cost for repair should be about $20 for an indent ball repair and about $75 for a tine replacement (welded back on and heat treated).

When cleaning the gun, remember to take the outer choke tube off and clean the choke well inside and out as well as the choke tines on the barrel.

The choke works as a progressive cone, the end of the barrel has slits in it to act as tines. As you tighten the choke, the tines move closer together and when you loosen the choke, the tines move apart to make a wider choke. If one of the tines are broke, missing or cracked you will not get a proper choke. This is easily fixed, but should be done by a qualified smith and not some back yard or car frame welding person as it also needs to be re-heat treated and re-blued.

[hook]

I have had a Mossberg 20 gauge like it since the sixties. Was my very first shotgun

[JPGreco]

Yeah Grizz, I'm gonna check it tomorrow. I'll unscrew the choke thing and inspect the fins. Just been busy the last couple of days and too tired to now.

[kyratshooter]

Some of the Mosburg adjustable chokes did not have a detent ball. Mine does not.

You are not going to blow the choke off the end of the barrel. That thing is brazed on and will not budge. It took a welding torch to get mine off and resecure it. Mine has a super full position registered at the fully closed position. It also has open choke index mark too.

I just would not try to fire a slug out of the super full setting.

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[OhioGrizzLapp]

Yes, you can blow the adjustable tube part right off the gun if it is loose or you have a broken tine (fin), not the silver sweated on part. I know this as I have had people bring these to me at the shop to repair and replace the adjustable part that screws on.

[JPGreco]

All the fins are in good condition, no cracks or anything and all are present and accounted for... lol
I didn't feel anything in the barrel other than some spots that might need a little sanding because of some minor pitting. Felt smooth, straight, and true.

However, the alignment guide is actually loose and can move about 1/8 inch, so I'm not sure where it needs to be set for proper choke. Also, the part that the choke screws onto can wiggle a little, which I'm not sure if that is normal.

I also google and it seems that there are a LOT of gun shops around. I just gotta get around to calling them to see which one would be the best option to bring to to have it checked over.