I do want to respond and help figure it out, so bear with me.. I haven't had all my coffee yet this morning
Bigger deer = tougher grain, especially necks.
I had let one stay in the buck until it really was eating at the fiber network, so in order to be able to grain without tearing it all up, I had to rinse it some. The bucking solution reacts with the loose hydrogen bonds (mucus) where the grain and fiber network meet. Once a hide is effectively bucked, the bond in the papillary layer is forever gone. (let me know if I lose you) Water causes a different kind of swelling of the hide, versus bucking. By rinsing, you stop the "digestive" process, or at least slow it down so that the hide is less swollen and less susceptible to tearing. If you leave one in the buck for too long, it will just turn to goo. It is possible that the solution is getting too weak, and might need to have a little added to it.
To add to this, I know some people who do not use a bucking solution and just let a hide soak in water until it's ready. I suppose this takes a long time and for the sake of speeding up the process I choose to buck my hides, not only because it makes it easier, but also because timing is pretty critical. I usually tan on days when the weather is bad and I can't work, so I have to anticipate the rain/cold and try to get it done.
I have not experienced one getting tougher from soaking longer in ashes or lime.
I almost always grain the neck first, as it's always the hardest spot, so by the time I'm tired, I'm at the easy parts.
I suppose it's possible that the ashes might have something that other solutions do not have, but I get the same results with CaOH, so I'm just not sure. I don't really have any way to analyze the components of the ash-lye.
Bucking definitely makes permanent changes to the hide.
I know it's frustrating, and I apologize that this thread did not cover your problem. I honestly suggest a 3" beam for the neck, and I suggest graining it first to conserve stamina.
Bookmarks