Metal for knives

[Arctic Fox]

What common items can I get good steel for blades from? The last knife I made wasn't made with super high quality steel and doesn't hold an edge for long. I know saw blades work, but read somewhere that newer blades only have quality steel on the teeth. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[point man]

What kinda knives we talkin? Choppers? Whittlers? Can't beat a $19 Lauri PTX. Darn fine blade, maybe one of the best


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[Rick]

He's wanting to make his own.

[point man]

He's wanting to make his own.

I gathered that.

Different style knives call for different steels. That's why I asked what type of knife. That would decide the type of steel. You don't want too hard of material on a big chopper as chipping would be an issue, and you would want a whittler to be super hard for good edge retention. Hammer forge? Or grinding a flat blank? Finished blank? Semi finished blank? Alabama damascus blank? Knife style choice will also decide grind which will decide steel, then heat treat.

A new maker may choose to get they're hands wet building handles on finished blades. Lots of great choices.

You could just use a lawn mower blade and quench it in oil



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[hunter63]

One needs to crawl be for they run.

So say you wanted to make a general duty knife for camp chores, and did have any steel....what suggestions could you offer for a steel sources.

Granted many sources for buying blanks or flat,... stock in all sorts of steel type and metallurgies , what would you suggest for a scavenged steel product?

PS my first home made knife was 2" industrial hack saw blade........not the prettiest, but works.

[Arctic Fox]

I'm looking to make a general purpose knife for when I'm outdoors. I've made one knife before and it came out okay. I used steel flat bar for the blade, but it doesn't hold an edge long. As for sources, I don't have any local sources, which was why I was looking for some sort of scavenged material. I would be willing to buy steel online, but don't know of many good places to compare prices from.

[crashdive123]

Files and older sawmill blades make good knives. Avoid files made in China. I prefer older (flea market finds) USA made files. Nicholson is a good brand to look for (there are others as well).

You will need the ability to heat treat your steel.

[randyt]

I use older crosscut saw steel, leaf springs, files, rasps, hay rake teeth, trap springs, some rebar etc. I check steel by heating it to critical which is just hot enough a magnet won't stick. Then I quench it in 115 degree oil. The stick it in a vise and tap it with a hammer away from myself. If it breaks like glass, it is heat treat worthy. The crosscut saw steel I use as is. For most stuff I'm a metal pounder.

I should add that safety glasses and leather gloves are wise to use especially when snapping the steel.

Studebaker springs and black diamond files are primo

[Arctic Fox]

Thanks! I'll start keeping my eye out. Does anyone know a test of some sort I can do while I'm looking to check carbon content?

[crashdive123]

If you get an older US made file it will most likely be made of 1095.

[point man]

One needs to crawl be for they run.

So say you wanted to make a general duty knife for camp chores, and did have any steel....what suggestions could you offer for a steel sources.

Granted many sources for buying blanks or flat,... stock in all sorts of steel type and metallurgies , what would you suggest for a scavenged steel product?

PS my first home made knife was 2" industrial hack saw blade........not the prettiest, but works.

Scavenge steel? Leaf springs, mower blades, crosscut blades as stated below although usually a bit thin. most types of flat springs would be best, I'd consider a crosscut saw blade spring steel, and as Long as you don't anneal the piece your working during a long grinding process you'll likely still have a significantly hardened piece of steel that won't need additional heat treating. Just go slow and frequently cool in water. The thinner the metal becomes the faster it will heat and as you get close to finishing you may end up rushing it then run the risk of annealing during the final hours of a multi hour job. Then will certainly need hardening again


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[hunter63]

You know, now that you mentioned 1095 for blades...that was the high carbon we used for high strength wire rope.

Soooo....following that line of thinking, and piece of cable (wire rope) should make a heck of a Damascus blade id heated and pounded....Just thinking out loud.

[crashdive123]

I strongly disagree that you won't need additional heat treating for the materials mentioned. Files will at a minimum need to be tempered, as they are very brittle. Saw blades (1095 or L6) can run as low as 45 which will not give an edge that lasts.

[randyt]

Thanks! I'll start keeping my eye out. Does anyone know a test of some sort I can do while I'm looking to check carbon content?

The only simple test I know of is a quench test as mentioned in my post. Some do a spark test by grinding the steel and if it throws bright fine sparks it's suppose to have carbon. One way is knowing what the scrap steel is used for originally. Springs are generally carbon steel, hay rake tines, plow discs. I have heard that some railroad spike have a HC or something along that line cast on the head to indicate carbon. steel

[randyt]

In my opinion bout the only steel not needing a heat treat is cross cut saw steel. With that said though heat treating it would probably enhance its performance.

[point man]

There is a video out there floating around out there on the net of a guy pounding out cable into damascus.

Guys, I totally agree about the necessity of heat treating. I do it to all of my work.

My suggestion to a beginner is not to be so over whelmed by the whole knife build process to the point of totally talking them selves out of it.
IMHO, start with a high end pre finished blank, they're cheap as heck anyway and handle it/make sheath.
Then the morphing process evolves.



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[point man]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WOR_-glrz7U


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[canid]

Any machine shop that runs big lathes will go through plenty of full size nicholson mill files. If the shop doesn't already have a knifemaker on staff, or know one, you could find yourself a handy, occasional supply of worn out files for the asking.

It's always worth a shot.

[Arctic Fox]

Thanks for all the great advice and input guys. I have found this forum to be very helpful, and it is the only place I can get advice from people who actually have experience since there aren't many other kids in eight grade that enjoy the kinds of things I do.

[randyt]

It's a great hobby for young and old. Sawzall blades make a passable knife as well. There are a couple threads about using sawzall blades for knife material.

here's a link
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...sawblade+knife


here's another
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...=bucket+sheath