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Thread: Fire Starters And Tinders

  1. #121
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ablang View Post
    Hello, i think this is probably the mose important think you need to survive )) and ofc water!
    Hunter63 saying Hey and Welcome
    There is a intro section at:........If you would like to say hello.

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  2. #122

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    Really helpful videos! Already loving this forum. My friends used to always snicker at me for having fire steel instead of just using a lighter... until their BICs failed on a ski camping trip and I save the day/night!
    Outdoor survivalist, cook, and fur hat wearer
    Also a lightweight camping fanatic and hammock nerd

  3. #123
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    I'm going to have to try this again. When I tried a battery with steel wool it didn't catch as much as that, probably the type of steel wool.
    It is not necessary to change. Survival is not mandatory.

    http://wilderness-survival.org

  4. #124
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    If you use 0000 or 000 it should work fine.
    Can't Means Won't

    My Youtube Channel

  5. #125
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    Great videos
    A good reminder for me to practice different methods!
    Sometimes I wander because Im lost

  6. #126

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    My preferred manmade tinder is a variant of the petroleum jelly cotton ball. First, I melt the PJ, not just rub it into the CB. Second, I add paraffin or wax to the melted PJ and melt it all. Pour the mixture into a freezer zip top bag with cotton balls in it, squeeze out the air, then allow it soak up the hot liquid and keep it moving until it has cooled enough that it does not pool. At some point in the cooling process allow air in and move it so the balls don't just clump together. You can figure out the finer points. My cost is about 4 cents per PJCB, but you can pull them apart and maybe start 5 to 10 fires with each ball, depending on your kindling.

    Recipe is 13oz of PJ, 8oz of wax, 125 large cotton balls. Each ball will burn for about 10 minutes, give or take.

  7. #127

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    By the way, just in case it hasn't been noted, but steel wool works with a ferro rod as well.

  8. #128
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    Pardon me if this has already been discussed. I use pitch wood, some call it fatwood. If a coniferous tree is injured it responds by sending sap to the site. This helps seal it off from pathogens and can envelop bugs and trap them before they cause trouble. Another genesis is a strong wind twists a tree to the point of the wood inside cracks. Over time that sap is absorbed into the wood and depending on how saturated it may be waterproof but it acts like wood that has been soaked in turpentine. Very easy to ignite with a match or lighter. Never tried the primitive methods.

    When walking in the woods if you see an rotten old pine tree stump with some vertical pieces sticking up check out it out. Especially if they are in the interior of the tree. There is a reason those vertical pieces did not rot and it may be they are impregnated with pitch. Same holds for old rotten windfall Pine trees, very very rotten. If there are pieces of wood that have not rotted it may be pitch wood. BTW I use the term Pine trees pretty generically. Pine trees, Douglas-fir, spruce, true firs like White fir to a lesser extent. The western cedars not so good.

    Break a piece off and if it smells like PineSol you have pitch wood. Some wood may be so impregnated that you could soak it under water and it will still catch.I've been in some pretty good rainstorms and got a fire started with this stuff. A few shavings will get dry wood to ignite but if the wood is wet you need to use chunks. And do not cook over it unless you like turpentine as a marinade.

  9. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by Winter View Post
    Great video for newbs.

    I had a strike force, too heavy and leaked. Since then, I pair up my ferro rods with a piece of fine hacksaw blade. The saw blade chews up the ferro rod, but, almost effortless shower of sparks.
    like all your videos, I find good "how dos"

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