Knife/Survival Knife Info.

[erunkiswldrnssurvival]

My personal favorite is Solengen knives, made in germany, they are forged from the finest quality german steel.they range from the 100's also.

[crashdive123]

I've already looked at their site. Looks like some nice knives. Just a little spendy for me. But thanks. I've got a couple of different knives and they seem to serve me pretty well.

[Blood Groove]

I'd like to try a Nessmuk style knife. I don't know what the weird designe is for. I'm sure people here have read that book Woodcraft and Camping by "Nessmuk"

[Ole WV Coot]

I'd like to try a Nessmuk style knife. I don't know what the weird designe is for. I'm sure people here have read that book Woodcraft and Camping by "Nessmuk"

Here are a couple I made for my grandson. That's the style I like, fits the hand, slices well, good skinner. It is not an axe or saw just a good style blade. If you want you can modify an Old Hickory skinner and for under $10 you can make one. I make my own because none are available except custom. The blade ain't "mean" looking, just works great.

[nell67]

Very nice Coot!

[Gray Wolf]

As I said when I first saw them, "they're a work of art"!

Coot what kind of steel did you use?

[Riverrat]

Very nice job...really nice shape. When I get the shop up and finished, will have to try to make a knife, be completely off track for me, never worked with metal before.

[chiye tanka]

Very nice work Coot.

[Blood Groove]

Coot, that looks just like the one in the book. That's so cool. I read this artical on the internet of custom made ones, and yours look just as good. I like the sheaths especially. So what is the "hump-back" used for. I mean what would Nessmuk have wanted a hump on the back of his knife

[Ole WV Coot]

As I said when I first saw them, "they're a work of art"!

Coot what kind of steel did you use?

I appreciate that. Those are made from a 10" carbide tipped saw blade, full tang. Handles are hardwood. Maple on the larger one and cherry on the small. I used 1/2" flooring scraps. Pins are brass welding rod, thong hole on the larger is a 22mag case. I cut the blades out with a Dremel tool, heated to cherry red and cooled slowly,drilled the holes on the drill press, removed stock with a belt sander, then smoothed with a large mill file. Reheated to non magnetic, quenched in 10W30, cleaned and reheated about 3/4" of edge with a torch. Edge quenched in water, kept the blade pretty cool while heating the edge. Went by color and had a decent edge line. After epoxy and brass shaped the handles with sandpaper and used a tomato to coat the blade except for the edge. Next day I cleaned them up a bit, sewed sheaths and that's it. Not complicated at all. I use a forge sometimes but for this type of blade this is faster and quicker. If you don't heat up the saw blade you can draw file it to shape and it will have a decent holding edge. Those are strong, working knives and nothing really fancy except the tomato acid to kinda age and dull the top of the blade.

[Ole WV Coot]

Blood Groove, the hump works like a good skinner, keeping the guts from getting cut. If you read the dimensions on the knife the blade is thin, but not flexible. Sears carried a small double bit axe and a good pocket knife. The knife isn't too big yet not too small and can be used around camp, kitchen or in the field. It ain't a true fighter, skinner or "survival" type, but I personally use one most every day and even banged one thru a treated 2X4 with a hammer and didn't hurt the edge but put a few dents in the back. They are tools I make and use. I have a few scattered around I didn't bother to clean but they do their job.

[Gray Wolf]

I appreciate that. Those are made from a 10" carbide tipped saw blade, full tang. Handles are hardwood. Maple on the larger one and cherry on the small. I used 1/2" flooring scraps. Pins are brass welding rod, thong hole on the larger is a 22mag case. I cut the blades out with a Dremel tool.

Coot, I like how you used scraps, brass welding rod, and a shell case. There was no problems cutting the saw blade with a Dremel tool? Did you cut the blade and tang to almost the final shape with the Dremel? Also it's very deceiving how the saw blade looks so thick. Thanks for sharing your tips!

[Ole WV Coot]

Coot, I like how you used scraps, brass welding rod, and a shell case. There was no problems cutting the saw blade with a Dremel tool? Did you cut the blade and tang to almost the final shape with the Dremel? Also it's very deceiving how the saw blade looks so thick. Thanks for sharing your tips!

The full thickness of a saw blade is plenty for a knife and the Dremel cuts very well even if it takes a couple of discs for each blade. With a good, long file draw filing removes lots of metal quickly with very good control. I cut within an 1/8" of my line and if necessary it is easily smoothed. A 10" carbide tip saw blade steel is decent as is because only the tips have been changed. The brass pins are almost decorative because 2ton epoxy would hold very well, I sometimes drill a few more holes than necessary to give the epoxy more "bite". I think you could make a knife like I do without any problem. If I can give any help just let me know.

[Gray Wolf]

Thanks Coot, which # Dremel disc (Cut-off Wheel) are you using?

[Fletcher]

Thas ts good work VW Coot. Can a lawn mower blade be used for knife makeing?

[crashdive123]

Can a lawn mower blade be used for knife makeing?

Yep.......

[ATough]

I have taken a shine, to the Smith and Wesson baby SWAT knife. and its only $30.

[Fletcher]

Yep.......

Thanks.........no really I mean it!!

[crashdive123]

Just think of it as a leaf spring that somebody put a bit of an edge on.

[Blood Groove]

Blood Groove, the hump works like a good skinner, keeping the guts from getting cut. If you read the dimensions on the knife the blade is thin, but not flexible. Sears carried a small double bit axe and a good pocket knife. The knife isn't too big yet not too small and can be used around camp, kitchen or in the field. It ain't a true fighter, skinner or "survival" type, but I personally use one most every day and even banged one thru a treated 2X4 with a hammer and didn't hurt the edge but put a few dents in the back. They are tools I make and use. I have a few scattered around I didn't bother to clean but they do their job.

Ahh so that hump keeps the guts and stuff out fo the way so their not punctured when skinning. OK that makes sence. Well I'm really impressed with them.