Survival Stove

[Rick]

The Background:

I built three survival stoves and decided to test them against each other to see which one performed the best. Why bother building a survival stove? Three reasons come to mind.

1. Some wilderness areas are controlled by state or federal government and ban open camp fires at specific times because of fire hazard. That only leaves a stove option if they allow it.

2. While traveling in winter, it isn’t always convenient to build a larger fire just for a warm drink or some warm food. A stove offers a quick and easy way to build a smaller fire.

3. In a true winter survival situation where a lot of snow is on the ground it may not be possible to find a lot of wood to build a large fire. You might, however, be able to find smaller sticks or dead branches that could be burned.

The stoves are built from the following materials using ideas based on those I found elsewhere on the internet, with the exception of the vegetable can. It’s my design for better or worse (although I’m sure not an original idea).

Stove 1: A standard 14.5 oz. vegetable can (without the plastic interior coating). Picture 2.

Stove 2: A standard 46 oz. tomato juice can (without the plastic interior coating). Picture 1.

Stove 3: A new 1 quart paint can (purchased at Home Depot), an 11.5 oz. coffee can, 5 metal screws. Pictures 3 and 4. (a 28 oz. vegetable can will also work in place of the coffee can. It is a bit shorter so it fits flush inside the paint can. Both the coffee can and the 28 oz. vegetable can are the same diameter. The coffee can was available so I used it). Its displayed in pictures 3, 4, and 5. (you can see the file marks on the can).

I wanted to ensure there were like conditions throughout the test so I used a 1 quart can of kiln dried red oak scraps for fire wood in each stove. (I do wood working so I have plenty of bits and pieces). I used my fireplace so I had a no variables on wind and a constant temperature of 69 degrees. When the firewood was burned up in the stove, the test ended.

For the water boiling test, I used the old style GI canteen cup because that’s what I carry. This is the one with the solid handle that folds underneath the cup. Not the one with the wire handles. I used 2 2/3 cups (650 ml) of water in the cup for the test.

The Tests:

Vegetable can:

This stove took about five minutes to create. I simply drilled some vent holes in the bottom of the can. I could do the same thing with a knife, a can opener on a multi-tool or a p-38 tool in the field if I had to. You could use anything that would poke holes in the base of the can.

I originally wanted to test the vegetable can just for heat output but the flames were about eight inches above the can (impressive) so it got included in the boil test.

Given the shape of the canteen cup and the small diameter of the vegetable can, I was just able to situate the canteen cup on the can so the flames escaped from the can up the concave surface of the cup. A round pot would smother the fire unless some notches or grooves were placed in the top of the can to allow the flames to escape.

The small can produced a good amount of heat without the cup on top but the cup restricted the air flow and reduced the heat somewhat. I could lift the cup a couple of inches above the can and create a nice hot fire but replacing the cup tended to have a smothering effect. In a survival situation, enclosed in some type of shelter (beneath a fir or pine tree for example) the can would definitely be a comfort. Its small size produced quite a bit of heat and a nice layer of bubbles on the inside of the cup formed in about 8 minutes. It never did bring the water to a full boil but a few bubbles did break the surface and the water reached a nice 178 F. More than enough for a nice hot drink.

The fire burned out after 22 minutes leaving only a few small coals in the bottom of the can.

I am going to add some notches to the top of the can to spread the fire so a pot won’t smother it and field test it shortly after Christmas.

Tomato Juice Can:

This stove took about about 20 minutes to make using a drill and a set of tin snips. I took some time to file down the burrs and sharp edges that were produced so I didn’t amputate anything. If I were in the field and needed to make an expedient stove, I could probably make this same stove in about ten minutes using a knife or similar instruments described above.

The much larger tomato juice can put out a bit more heat than the vegetable can. The fire burned much better because of the larger “fire box”. My canteen cup was a bit small to set very well on the open top of the can and while I could make it work in the field if I had too, I chose to place a small piece of brazing rod across the top of the can just to help stabilize the cup. For those of you using a pot, you should not encounter this problem because a pot is generally larger than the 4 3/16 inch diameter of the juice can. The large V shape allows plenty of room for the fire to escape and maintains an excellent draft regardless of what type of container is placed on top.

The can drafted very well and produced a nice fire because of the open design. Again, a nice layer of bubbles formed on the inside of the canteen cup in about 8 minutes but never reached a full boil given the limited firewood for the test. The temperature of the water reached an even nicer 185 F. More than enough for a nice hot drink.

The fire burned out after 17 minutes leaving only a few small coals in the bottom of the can.

Two piece stove:

Given the larger size of the stove (about three times the size of the vegetable can and about half again larger than the juice can) this stove put out a lot of heat. Frankly, I was surprised at how far out the heat radiated. The smaller diameter of the coffee can (3 1/4 inches across) allowed the cup to sit very well on top. A nice layer of bubbles formed on the inside of the cup in 5 minutes but never reached a full boil. The much larger “fire box” allowed the fire to burn out in 13 minutes but the water had reached 190 F.

The design of the can would not permit you to build an expedient stove of this type in the field. Rather, this is one you would make at home and carry with you. But it is a nice design. It’s much taller than the other two so level ground would be a consideration for stability.

Conclusion:

While this test was far from scientific, I did attempt to control a number of variables so I could make an honest comparison. Given the very small size of the vegetable can, I was forced to use smaller pieces of wood and had to feed the fire every two or three minutes. The larger size of the juice container and two piece stove allowed me to add all the wood at once and I was able to use a bit larger pieces of wood to sustain the fire. In general, the larger stoves used pieces ¾ x ½ x 4 inches while the vegetable can was limited to ½ x ½ by 2 inches.

Given the fact that mankind has trampled just about everywhere and left his litter there as well, a can of any type could be manufactured with some ease into an expedient stove.

The vegetable can produced a nice fire and good heat and could be used to cook over with little effort. If I had to I could tape the holes closed or tie a bandana around the bottom of the can to retain water long enough to drink from. So it also offers some multi use options. I’m a bit anxious to see what I can do with it outdoors with the notches added.

The juice can was just a nice stove. It’s simple, it’s easy and quick to make and it put out more heat than the vegetable can. Its large V opening allows you to add small amounts of wood easily without disturbing whatever you are cooking. With the proper shelter, this stove could be used to keep you warm as well.

The two piece can is a hot stove. It’s more complicated and a bit less stable because of its height so I have to rate it down a bit for that. Still, it’s a great stove that puts out a lot of heat and would do a very nice job cooking up a meal.

I suppose the most important thing about this test is that materials you would not normally consider as survival equipment or might even walk past out in the wild can certainly be made into just that. The next time you find a can lying in the woods. Pick it up and cart it out with you. Not only are you cleaning up the environment but you may have just found the best little wood stove around.

[Rick]

A bit of an update:

I went back and cut five inverted notches in the vegetable can and repeated the test. This time covering the can with the cup. It still smothered the fire. Bubbles formed on the inside of the cup in about 8 minutes but the small fire chamber and covered top produced a lot of smoke. The fire only lasted 17 minutes in this test and the water temperature only reached 170 degrees.

Still, it is a vegetable can and if that's all you have it can make a heck of stove. By holding the pot, pan or cup a couple of inches above the can to allow the fire to better draft and continuing to feed pieces of wood to the fire you could still have a nice hot drink or meal or simply use it as a heater if you did not have anything to heat water in.

[nell67]

Been a busy boy today, Rick. Thanks for sharing the info you learned.

[Proud American]

Yah Rick Thanks read it twice to make sure I understood, think im goin to try it out myself. Though if u were truly lost in the midle of no where finding a can would be dificult but bringing food would probably mean u had a can on hand so the argument is just a comment

[Aurelius95]

Thanks for sharing your results. As far as the vegestable can goes, is there a way you could make a lift to keep it off the edge? Maybe using the top of the can? By the way, anyone ever try making the Pepsi can stove? Rick, you've inpsired me to try it.

http://www.pcthiker.com/pages/gear/pepsistove.shtml

[Sarge47]

I wanna join Rick's Scout Troop! It's gotta be a blast! BTW, J. Wayne Fears shows how to make a survival stove by poking holes in the side of a regular-sized can and burning pine sap in it.

[Rick]

Aurelius - Go to:

http://www.backpacking.net/makegear.html

and scan down to stoves. They have a bunch of home mades that might give you some ideas. I have a Trangia alcohol stove but you have the problem of packing the alcohol and then running out of alcohol God knows where.

For my test, I wanted to put together something that burned wood so I could just pick my fuel up along the way. I wanted something that I might actually find outdoors in a survival situation. The two piece stove required a bit of manufacturing that I wouldn't do in the bush but overall I was pleased. As far as lifting it above the can, sure. I saw a number of larger stoves on the internet that had done that very thing. However, if I were lucky enough to find a can in the wild I probably wouldn't have something to manufacture a lift for it. So I wanted to try it "as is". For my cup, it was workable as a stove. But even more important, it worked very well as a heater.

My scout troop is the BEST, Sarge. We're doing OBGYN field exams next week. Most of the den's fathers all want to be there. Crazy guys.

[nell67]

Sorry Rick,I wont be able to make that meeting!

[dilligaf2u2]

I picked up a Sierra Zip Stove. I have a solar recharger for the batteries. Now weight is a factor. But for the amount of heat it puts out, I will gladly carry the few extra ounces. Once running it will even burn wet sticks.

I have used this stove in sub zero weather. I keep a hand full of sticks in my possibles bag to get a fire going in wet weather. I sometimes carry a few BBQ charcoals for the fun of it. They burn hot and long.

A small bottle of hand sanitizer is used as a fire starter, for those times I do not want to fight a fire into taking. I usually get a small fire going on the ground with the steel and move it into the stove when it is ready.

I have also been know to take cedar wood chips for the smoker for the smell and to ward off the skeeters.

The can stove works. I used one for years. I changed to the Zip stove when I could start using rechargeable batteries. I have warmed up a shelter with it a time or 3 and cooked for 12 people on it.

The Woodgas stove looks like it would be a good choice also.

I have a canteen cup with heater. I cut the hole in the bottom of the heater a bit larger. I have used sticks with it as a wood burner stove. It works well and carries better then a can stove.

Don

[Rick]

I've looked at the Zip stoves. It's a neat idea. Sort of a mini forge. My reservation are: 1. it uses batteries, 2. The fan isn't waterproof and 3. the batter pack isn't water proof. Lot's of fail points from my perspective. BUT, lot's of folks use them and swear by them so they have to have a lot of good points as well. I've also read of folks installing a rheostat to adjust the fan speed. I'll bet with the fan running that is one hot fire. "We'll be having rabbit stew tonight followed by forging our own knives."

Nell - You are welcome to attend the meeting. It should be fun. OBGYN - Outdoor Boys. Growing Young Naturalists.......I just knew someone would bite. Teheheheh.

[flandersander]

Has anybody tried those alcohol powered stoves? Obviously there is a huge restriction when using alcohol as a fuel. The good thing is that alcohol, per ounce, has more stored heat NRG than wood so less fuel is needed. I have researched these on the net and found very good ideas. but thats what they were, ideas. so i invented my own. i boiled water in 3minutes 17 seconds. it was quite amazing. Any arguments that alcohol is a terrible survival fuel? yeah its not great but it would be good for backpackers and hikers.

[Rick]

I actually have a Trangia alcohol stove along with the whole Swedish mess kit thingy. I don't mind alcohol. It burns clean and hot and does a nice job if you can shield it from the wind. Wind just kills an alcohol stove. If I'm doing a couple days out then I don't mind using the alcohol stove. I also have an MSR pocket rocket that I carry when its really wet or I'm restricted from open fires. If I'm going to be out longer then I usually don't carry either one just because of the weight unless fire restrictions are in place. I don't want to lug a bunch of fuel around and take a chance on running out of fuel God knows where.

[mbarnatl]

I just ordered MBD Blackfly alcohol stove from MiniBullDesign.

[flandersander]

What i really meant was the pepsi can alcohol stoves. I sell them on ebay and they go for like 5 bucks! its a sweet moneymaking device i guess you would call it. the pepsi cans cost me a buck and i make 5 for it. whats a trianga alcohol stove? never heard of it.

[Rick]

Trangia stove:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...icial%26sa%3DN

Here is what the whole kit looks like:

http://www.surplusandadventure.com/s...it-330662.html

[RobertRogers]

Has anybody tried those alcohol powered stoves? Obviously there is a huge restriction when using alcohol as a fuel. The good thing is that alcohol, per ounce, has more stored heat NRG than wood so less fuel is needed. I have researched these on the net and found very good ideas. but thats what they were, ideas. so i invented my own. i boiled water in 3minutes 17 seconds. it was quite amazing. Any arguments that alcohol is a terrible survival fuel? yeah its not great but it would be good for backpackers and hikers.

Yes, it works well but the problem is that the fuel is not always available

[Rick]

I played around with another version of a survival stove this evening using an empty Kiwi shoe polish can. I cut a strip of cardboard 1/2 inch wide and 20 inches long. I rolled the cardboard into a coil and sat it inside the shoe polish can. I then added about 1/8 cup (30 Ml?) of paraffin to the can. In essence, a flat, round candle. I clocked the burn time at 15 fifteen minutes almost to the second just allowing the stove to burn until it went completely out. I then made another one and used it to see if I could boil water.

Once again, I used the old style GI canteen cup because that’s what I carry. This is the one with the solid handle that folds underneath the cup. Not the one with the wire handles. I used 2 2/3 cups (650 ml) of water in the cup for the test.

The best I could get was about 150 F. on a fifteen minute burn.

I didn't have anything to measure the amount of paraffin I used. My measuring cup only goes down to 1/4 cup but I used about half that. There was no magic in the 20 inches of cardboard either. I just cut a strip I thought looked good. Like a kerosene latern, the height of the cardboard above the paraffin will control the amount of flame you have, how long it burns and how much soot is created. The higher the cardboard above the paraffin the shorter the burn and the more soot.

This turned out to be a really compact little stove that has a decent burn time. Although it did not boil the water, a 150 F drink would be pretty good on a cold winter day. The down side would be when you could carry it. If it got hot enough in your pack I suppose it could melt so August in the desert wouldn't be practical. It also produces a lot of soot but as a survival stove, that's a mute point for me. On the up side, if you want to stop the burn just drop the lid of the can on it and it snuffs out the flame. I think you could manage two warm (not hot) drinks out of this stove if you had to and that might be enough to get you back to safety.

[mbarnatl]

Here is an article to read about... can you make an adequate DIY stove: "Explorations into Candle Stoves"



Here is a nice article on a Beverage-can stove.

Also, here is another link on home-made stoves.

[Rick]

Thanks! I hadn't seen the the Candle Stoves site. A lot of good information there. One thing I will rebuff from their site is the fact that they are hard to light. It really depends on how high the cardboard extends above the wax. If it's flush or below, you have no wick and will have no flame. If it extends above then lighting the one I built was pretty easy.

[Gray Wolf]

I find that the Ebits stove for it's size very good (4" x 3" x 3/4" folded). You have 2 positions of the stove, 1) holds my Olicamp SS cup. 2) Opens completely to hold my Olicamp SS 7.75" plate. The Ebits fuel tabs are very small and there is no fumes or smoke, so you can use it in your vehicle if necessary. Each tab burns @ 1400 degrees F for 15 minutes.

http://www.bestglide.com/esbit_stove.html