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Thread: Simple Homestead Construction Methods

  1. #61

    Default Small Scale Logging/Sawmill

    Since I last posted on this thread several people have asked about sawmills to develop their land and make a few bucks on the side. The way some sawmills advertise you get the idea that all you need is their mill and you can take it right to the tree, saw it up and drive home with it all stacked on the trailer. There was a time I fell for that myself but it’s a bit more complicated than that and I could write a book on the subject explaining it. Instead I will just explain how I am setting up my next operation based on all I have learned over the years.

    First start small. If you can overcome problems like availability of logs, regulations even a small setup will make enough money to reinvest and grow operation. If you can’t you are not out near as much money.

    Second sawmills need support equipment and tools. The good news is the tools used to support a sawmill are most of what you need to get started not a sawmill costing 5000 dollars or more. What I have will fit in the trunk of my car and very productive.

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    I am partial to Stihl saws. Stihl makes two grades of saws and for humping through the woods felling trees I chose to use the professional grade 260. It is comparable to the Farmboss and while the motor is smaller it turns 1000 rpm faster and has lighter parts and a compression release. It also costs 200 dollars more.

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    Using Hayden Lumber Maker bolted to a chainsaw bar is a very fast way to square a log. For this I use the Farmboss 290 Stihl. These are actually what Stihl calls a home owners model but they have been the work horse of my operations. A great value with good power and they last forever just not as light and burn a bit more fuel than pro models. Chainsaw mills have a greater capacity to cut long or large diameter logs than most sawmills and you will need these chainsaw mills any way to cut large logs down to a size your sawmill can handle.

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    Once the log is squared I use an Alaskan Mill to re-saw into lumber. While chainsaw mills cut slower set up time is faster and the Alaska mill needs no set up at all to start cutting lumber from cant. I power this mill with another of Stihls professional grade saws, the 220 E. This is an electric saw but not like any you have used before. I has power like the two gas saws and costs more than either of them. The advantages are it is quieter, does not need to be started, fueled in the middle of a cut and can be used indoors in the winter keeping production going all year. When I say these are comparable it is in more ways then just power. They all have 20 inch bars and 3/8 chain and can be used interchangeably in case of mechanical failure. If a sawmill breaks down production stops. The odds of 3 Stihls breaking down at the same time impossible.

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    For trimming ends I will use a Prazi beam saw that converts worm drive saw. Sometimes I have used these to trim cant to a particular size rather than re-set Alaskan Mill.

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    Chain maintenance is a big part of the job. Buying chain in bulk rolls will save money but you need a break and mend tool. I sharpen chains constantly and usually I just give it a few passes with a file but occasionally you should use this type of file guide that has depth setting to keep chain uniform otherwise some teeth will wear faster than other. Always keep your chains properly tensioned and bar tool handy. Circular saws are the quickest to sharpen but blades are domed and to hammer them is a special skill few people have. Band saw blades stretch and overheat just like a chain, dull faster when they cut into bark and will bend when they hit a knot leaving waves in the lumber. They have other problems that I won’t get into just know they don’t advertise their faults.

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    I have a chainsaw powered capstan winch for bring logs out of the woods. Pulleys and choke chains all fit in this tool bag. I will be getting another Farmboss to leave connected to it.

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    Poly rope that does not stretch is need for winch. I use 3/8 leaded line left over from my long lining days rated to 2500 pounds. I use 250 feet to reach logs. A capstan can handle any length and this stuff comes in 600 foot rolls but more than this is hard to handle and becomes a tangled mess.

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    More misc. tools include an extra Hayden lumber maker for temporary set ups, what looks like a come-along is another rope winch, a short cant hook (get a large one and you’ll see why I use a small one), pipe with a sharp point to the side is a hookeroon to move and lift logs without bending over and the ramps will roll logs over obstacle or onto a trailer.

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    I find it easier to build with shorter lumber than deal with large logs and the small end of log determines size of lumber and the longer it is the more it tapers down in size wasting wood. For now I will just use my small trailer and yard tractor to move logs from wood lot. I have hauled logs up 16 feet in length in the center of this trailer and I can also haul it with my compact car and do tree removal for friends and I keep the wood. Firewood is another by product you will have doing this too.

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    If you purchase a sawmill you’ll wind up getting this stuff but if you get this stuff first you may find you may not need or want to get a sawmill. If you do you will have made enough money to pay for it.
    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 04-25-2011 at 01:39 PM.


  2. #62
    Senior Member randyt's Avatar
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    nice post AS,

    loaded with great info, I've been wanting to try a chainsaw mill. I have tried the hayden style. instead of hauling the logs out do you ever cut the lumber right where the tree fell? It seems like hauling the finished product out would be more effective and the mess would be left.

    I must add to that you have some great gear. I have gear similar but it's wood handled. those composite handles are tough but shoot I can't bring myself to upgrade as long as my old stuff is still working and as long as there is a half dozen cant hooks hanging in the barn

    I don't know if I mentioned it before but my brother in laws and I have a 01 frick circular mill. I understand what you are saying about saw hammering. I gathered up my grandfathers hammering bench and tools the other day. Even though I helped out in his shop I'm a long ways from properly hammering a saw.

    you certainly touch a soft spot talking about logging and lumbering, brings back memories. thank you

  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by randyt View Post
    instead of hauling the logs out do you ever cut the lumber right where the tree fell? It seems like hauling the finished product out would be more effective and the mess would be left.
    I seldom do but occasionally will depending on situation. Mosquito's are thicker in the trees than in the open where the wind helps blow them away and you are at thier mercy with both hands full. It is easier to make one trip with the end of rope winch and let the winch bring the whole log out than me making half a dozen trips where I do all the carrying. I do cut trees to log lenght I need on the to make log handling easier. There are situations that I will saw them up on the spot. One is when I am building on that spot. No need to haul them out to haul them back in and the other is when I need long lenghts from big trees. The chainsaw winch has its limits. Those limits can be increased with a reaching arch and that is another piece of support equipment I would get before sawmill. Here is a few examples where I did. Note lenght of beams.

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    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 11-13-2010 at 12:57 PM.

  4. #64
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    Finally got around to going through this entire thread. A book's worth of info for an easy investment of just some time. Thankyou AS. Rep sent and well deserved.

    Oldtrap
    Never claimed to be an expert. Just use or do what works for me.

  5. #65

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    Excellent, excellent thread. I've seen better info here than in most books written on the subject.

    Do you have grid electricity for the electric saws? If you mentioned it I missed it.

    How do you mix the cement for the concrete blocks (what ratios, kind of cement, etc.)?

    Thanks for the info on the cement block mold. I've done web searches to try to find info for making blocks at home and the only thing that turns up is for commercial operations.

    Great thread! Thanks for posting it.

  6. #66

    Default Advice on Heavy Equipment for Homesteading

    There is one thing you won’t be able to get around if you are to develop land and that is excavation work. Growing up on a homestead, working gold claims and construction I tend to take this skill for granted. It’s not rocket science but you will need someone to show you how and I suggest if anybody you know that can teach you the basics and you can get some time at the controls jump on it. I know they have schools for it but it’s not that complicated and with a little instruction and a few hours of practice you will be able to operate most equipment good enough to do the job.

    I strongly recommend not buying machinery but renting it instead. You do not have enough work for it to justify the expense and renting you will always have the exact type of equipment for the job. Rental costs are completely tax deductible but only the depreciation is deductible if you buy.

    When I needed to put in a driveway and dig a basement for the block building previously shown I rented an excavator for half a day at the cost of 230 dollars and a 70 dollar delivery fee.

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    This job would have easily cost me 4000 dollars to have done.

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    This mountain of dirt was moved in a couple of hours at a cost of 300 dollars.

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    Face it, you can’t move this much dirt by any other means and I while I have had a lot of machinery in my life had I figured this out sooner I could have saved myself a ton of money.
    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 04-25-2011 at 01:40 PM.

  7. #67
    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Another good post and great advice. I've operated a few items, boring machines, backhoes and cats. I've never had any formal training on any of it and it's not that difficult to operate. A big field and a little practice should get you going without running over too much. Good post!
    Tracks Across the High Plains...Death on the Bombay Line...A Touch of Death and Mayhem...Dead Rock...The Griswald Mine Boys...All On Amazon Books.

  8. #68

    Default Concrete Foundations

    The first step is to set stakes in corners and set a string line to proper height. A line level is adequate for small jobs like this one. Level dirt using string line as gauge and then set outer form boards to string line.

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    Then set inner forms using outer boards to gauge placement and use a torpedo level to adjust it to proper height. Set steel reinforcement in place tying it with bailing wire to cross ties to lift off ground. Back fill dirt around forms for added support.

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    I mix my own concrete most of the time. Mixed concrete cost 150 a yard last time I had it delivered. There are 4 sacks of cement to a yard at a cost of 12 dollars each so if I you have gravel you can mix it yourself for about a third the cost. It is labor intensive so larger jobs you will need bigger mixers and for even bigger jobs a delivery is still recommended.

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    My mixer will mix one wheel barrow at a time and to prevent cold joints fill footing at alternating ends to prevent cold joints. If you start at one end and only fill in one direction the concrete may set before you get back around to it using a mixer. Also note that a temporary bridge was built to wheel over footing to fill from inside footing. Set uprights reinforcements (or anchor bolts for wood) as you go. For most foundation 2’ 6” is adequate but this will be a deep basement so I am setting these at 2 foot. Level concrete to outside form.

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    I leave forms in place over night to set and strip forms the next day.

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    I then pour the slab using the foundation to level it using a board to scrap it level. Work the large gravel down when leveling and as it begins to set use a skreed to smooth finish. As it sets harder increase the angle of skeed.

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    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 04-25-2011 at 01:34 PM.

  9. #69
    Senior Member Winter's Avatar
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    Great stuff AS.
    I had a compass, but without a map, it's just a cool toy to show you where oceans and ice are.

  10. #70

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    Totally AWESOME Thread AS! I've learned more in the time spent reading this, than in all the times I have helped someone else do some construction project or other combined. Sadly I must spread the "Love" before I can Rep you again..... "Rep system"!!!!
    Because a survival situation carries an aura of timelessness, a survivor cannot allow himself to be overcome by it's duration or quality. A survivor accepts the situation as it is and improves it from that standpoint. Prologue from Outdoor Survival Skills by Larry Dean Olsen

  11. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by mosquitomountainman View Post
    Excellent, excellent thread. I've seen better info here than in most books written on the subject.

    Do you have grid electricity for the electric saws? If you mentioned it I missed it.

    How do you mix the cement for the concrete blocks (what ratios, kind of cement, etc.)?

    Thanks for the info on the cement block mold. I've done web searches to try to find info for making blocks at home and the only thing that turns up is for commercial operations.

    Great thread! Thanks for posting it.
    Read post 11-Mixing concrete - It’s as simple as 1,2,3. That is 1 part cement, two parts sand, a tree parts aggregate (rock). The cement gets between the grains of sand and the sand fills the cap between the rock. As I mentioned in “Classifying Gravel”, ¾ minus has about the right mixture of sand and I just mix it 1 shovel of cement to 5 shovels of ¾ minus. Mortar is just as simple but a slight variation. It is One part cement “to” 3 parts sand for binding block or rock together or sealing outer walls. This is the basic mix and you may find time you will wish to add more cement for some applications and you will get a feel for that with experience.

    I have electricity, a generator and solar power.
    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 01-15-2011 at 04:45 PM.

  12. #72

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    Finishing Concrete

    The previous thread made me aware I had not covered concrete finishing for floors or any other flat surface that will be left exposed. The slower a concrete slab dries the better. Laying plastic on the ground will prevent the ground from drawing moisture from the concrete. Set steel reinforcement with some rocks under it to lift into position and cover drains. Pour concrete as dry as you can, it is harder to work with, but will dry slower preventing surface cracks. Use a board that reaches across the slab to both form boards and level with a sliding motion. With drains work from the drains to the form board in the same manner. The next step is to push the gravel below the surface. A heavy wire screen called a jitterbug is pressed into the concrete to achieve this. Small or tight areas you can use the edge of your float making short strokes an inch apart to do this. Now use the float to smooth out as best as you can. As the concrete dries use a screed to work out imperfections. Begin with the screed almost flat and increase the angle and the pressure as it dries. Start with a small project like a stepping stone to get the hang of it.
    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 04-25-2011 at 01:35 PM.

  13. #73
    Senior Member Winter's Avatar
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    I do that for a living AS and could not have described it better. The current project is a bit different though.

    Gratuitous work pic the city inspector took.
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    I had a compass, but without a map, it's just a cool toy to show you where oceans and ice are.

  14. #74

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    What are you building there?

  15. #75
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Looks like some kind of bridge construction.
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  16. #76
    Senior Member Winter's Avatar
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    Yeah, a bridge.
    I had a compass, but without a map, it's just a cool toy to show you where oceans and ice are.

  17. #77
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    Alaskas Survivalist, your pictures and descriptions are first rate. I've watched people in the Sierra of California building cabins on their own, and they could have used your advice.

    When building a concrete block basement, they used a sealant called "Yellowjacket" to seal the below-ground walls to prevent water from seeping in. Also had "French drains" around the base of the walls. Do you use a sealant for your concrete walls below ground?

    Thanks.

    S.M.
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  18. #78

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    I do use sealent. Good drainage is most important. Back filling with gravel and tapering ground away from building is also important.

  19. #79
    Junior Member cappaletti's Avatar
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    this is all absolutely first rate info AS...thanks much for all the TIME & EFFORT involved in this thread...
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  20. #80

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    Off Grid Power

    A little electricity will make a big difference in your life so lets start there. This basic set up is completely portable and fits in 5 gallon bucket that is also used as a stand. 1 amp 15 watt solar panel can be set anywhere in the sun or it can just be leaned against the rest of the system.

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    I have cables set up so I can charge batteries on vehicles if needed. A low battery can leave you dead in the water if you have no way to charge it.

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    I'm using a small battery out of a garden tractor with a cigarette lighter socket. I use a 175 watt inverter that plugs into cigarette lighter socket. This will run my radio, mechanics hand held flourescent light, DVD player, charge cell phone, charge my AA and AAA batteries, etc. In this case I'm charging an 18 volt battery that powers a cordless chainsaw.

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    Living under battery power you quickly come to understand the importance of conservation and how it is easy to have a little electricity and how expensive it is to have a lot of electricity. This next system is as large as I feel is economically feasable and use conservation to live within its limitations. Susitna energy was very helpful with technical help and keeping it all compatable. I use two 6 volt batteries to make 12 volts. These are no maintenence storage batteries rated to deliver 400 watts for 20 hours each. The inverter is rated at 2000 watts with the capability to serge to 4000 watts. Note the large cables that connect it all. This reduces resistance.

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    I use a Honda 2000 watt generator to charge these batteries. It's quiet and will run 15 hours on a quart of gas. It is very portable and can be easily carried where needed. It is more reliable than renewable energy and very affordable when only run a couple hours a day during peak consumption and relying on batteries to store the power until needed the rest of the time.

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    The wind here is fierce but not consistent and while we have long summer days in the winter when you use more energy the days are short and usually cloudy. The generator/battery/inverter system is the most common system amoung those in Alaska that have systems that work. Still...."Every little bit helps". I am setting up a 135 watt solar panel and controller to be portable.
    I would really have to conserve to operate within the power output of just this solar panel but run through batteries and inverter would be powerful enough to run most things just not as often.

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    I'll be experimenting with a small hydro project and try to make a wood gas generator but when establishing a homestead is not the time for uncertain outcomes. My advice is use generator/battery/inverter then do your experimenting.
    Last edited by Alaskan Survivalist; 06-10-2011 at 11:27 AM.

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