Since I last posted on this thread several people have asked about sawmills to develop their land and make a few bucks on the side. The way some sawmills advertise you get the idea that all you need is their mill and you can take it right to the tree, saw it up and drive home with it all stacked on the trailer. There was a time I fell for that myself but it’s a bit more complicated than that and I could write a book on the subject explaining it. Instead I will just explain how I am setting up my next operation based on all I have learned over the years.
First start small. If you can overcome problems like availability of logs, regulations even a small setup will make enough money to reinvest and grow operation. If you can’t you are not out near as much money.
Second sawmills need support equipment and tools. The good news is the tools used to support a sawmill are most of what you need to get started not a sawmill costing 5000 dollars or more. What I have will fit in the trunk of my car and very productive.
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I am partial to Stihl saws. Stihl makes two grades of saws and for humping through the woods felling trees I chose to use the professional grade 260. It is comparable to the Farmboss and while the motor is smaller it turns 1000 rpm faster and has lighter parts and a compression release. It also costs 200 dollars more.
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Using Hayden Lumber Maker bolted to a chainsaw bar is a very fast way to square a log. For this I use the Farmboss 290 Stihl. These are actually what Stihl calls a home owners model but they have been the work horse of my operations. A great value with good power and they last forever just not as light and burn a bit more fuel than pro models. Chainsaw mills have a greater capacity to cut long or large diameter logs than most sawmills and you will need these chainsaw mills any way to cut large logs down to a size your sawmill can handle.
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Once the log is squared I use an Alaskan Mill to re-saw into lumber. While chainsaw mills cut slower set up time is faster and the Alaska mill needs no set up at all to start cutting lumber from cant. I power this mill with another of Stihls professional grade saws, the 220 E. This is an electric saw but not like any you have used before. I has power like the two gas saws and costs more than either of them. The advantages are it is quieter, does not need to be started, fueled in the middle of a cut and can be used indoors in the winter keeping production going all year. When I say these are comparable it is in more ways then just power. They all have 20 inch bars and 3/8 chain and can be used interchangeably in case of mechanical failure. If a sawmill breaks down production stops. The odds of 3 Stihls breaking down at the same time impossible.
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For trimming ends I will use a Prazi beam saw that converts worm drive saw. Sometimes I have used these to trim cant to a particular size rather than re-set Alaskan Mill.
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Chain maintenance is a big part of the job. Buying chain in bulk rolls will save money but you need a break and mend tool. I sharpen chains constantly and usually I just give it a few passes with a file but occasionally you should use this type of file guide that has depth setting to keep chain uniform otherwise some teeth will wear faster than other. Always keep your chains properly tensioned and bar tool handy. Circular saws are the quickest to sharpen but blades are domed and to hammer them is a special skill few people have. Band saw blades stretch and overheat just like a chain, dull faster when they cut into bark and will bend when they hit a knot leaving waves in the lumber. They have other problems that I won’t get into just know they don’t advertise their faults.
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I have a chainsaw powered capstan winch for bring logs out of the woods. Pulleys and choke chains all fit in this tool bag. I will be getting another Farmboss to leave connected to it.
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Poly rope that does not stretch is need for winch. I use 3/8 leaded line left over from my long lining days rated to 2500 pounds. I use 250 feet to reach logs. A capstan can handle any length and this stuff comes in 600 foot rolls but more than this is hard to handle and becomes a tangled mess.
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More misc. tools include an extra Hayden lumber maker for temporary set ups, what looks like a come-along is another rope winch, a short cant hook (get a large one and you’ll see why I use a small one), pipe with a sharp point to the side is a hookeroon to move and lift logs without bending over and the ramps will roll logs over obstacle or onto a trailer.
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I find it easier to build with shorter lumber than deal with large logs and the small end of log determines size of lumber and the longer it is the more it tapers down in size wasting wood. For now I will just use my small trailer and yard tractor to move logs from wood lot. I have hauled logs up 16 feet in length in the center of this trailer and I can also haul it with my compact car and do tree removal for friends and I keep the wood. Firewood is another by product you will have doing this too.
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If you purchase a sawmill you’ll wind up getting this stuff but if you get this stuff first you may find you may not need or want to get a sawmill. If you do you will have made enough money to pay for it.
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