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Thread: Leather work, wet forming

  1. #21
    Senior Member randyt's Avatar
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    nice looking holsters gents.


  2. #22
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    I use contractor's paper by the roll at Lowes to make holster patterns then when i get what i want i transfer it to leather.
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  3. #23
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    All you ever wanted to know about posting pics....

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  4. #24

    Default Firesteel Belt Pouch

    Firesteel belt pouch. Wet formed from scrap parts of an old Khukri frog (you know the one).
    20 min construction time + drying time. Just sized, cut, wet, clamped, and stitched with upholstery thread.
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  5. #25
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    Somebody is going to get a giggle out of this, but I wet formed a holster for my airsoft gun out of boredom!

    20130324_222316.jpg

  6. #26
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Looks good Farley.
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  7. #27
    Not a Mod finallyME's Avatar
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    Farley, how fast can you pull it out? It looks like the front sight post would get in the way.
    That gives me an interesting idea. If you found a plastic gun that matched your real handgun in size, then you could use the plastic one as a cheap block to wet form with.
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  8. #28
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyME View Post
    Farley, how fast can you pull it out? It looks like the front sight post would get in the way.
    That gives me an interesting idea. If you found a plastic gun that matched your real handgun in size, then you could use the plastic one as a cheap block to wet form with.
    A light oiling of the metal parts and Saran wrap work well.
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  9. #29
    Senior Member wtrfwlr's Avatar
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    Just a curious question from one who does not know about leatherwork. Could you wrap the, gun/object ect in the saran wrap and then after placing the leather, pull a vacuum to form fit and leave it under vacuum until dried? I would think that would capture the exact shape and detail really well.
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  10. #30
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I've never used a vacuum table, so not sure if it would work on leather. Spoons, bones and fingers are typically used to form the little nooks and crannies. I'm working on making a set from some antler pieces.
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  11. #31
    Senior Member wtrfwlr's Avatar
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    Gotcha. I was wondering more along the lines of bagging it like I've done with composite laminates.
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  12. #32
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Apparently you can, but I think tools might give more detail.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5c0_klxpHrg
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  13. #33
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Would make an intresting trial project.
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  14. #34
    Senior Member wtrfwlr's Avatar
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    Thanks for the video Crash, that was just what I had in mind. Makes me wish I still had my tools and equipment, I think I could do better than that?

    And you're right Hunter it would make for a good project! I love fooling around with stuff like that! I used to have quite a bit of stuff to vacuum form carbon fiber, kevlar, fiberglass laminates. You can do some pretty neat stuff by vacuum forming.

    I know, I just wander around thinking about things like this!
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  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by finallyME View Post
    Farley, how fast can you pull it out? It looks like the front sight post would get in the way.
    That gives me an interesting idea. If you found a plastic gun that matched your real handgun in size, then you could use the plastic one as a cheap block to wet form with.
    It does snag a bit but in all reality, I dont actually use it. It was just for a project and I had a bunch of belly scrap kicking around. The main issue I have is that when the holster is on, it tends to close up when the gun is out due to the waist curving.

    Crash: Thanks

  16. #36
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Farley View Post
    It does snag a bit but in all reality, I dont actually use it. It was just for a project and I had a bunch of belly scrap kicking around. The main issue I have is that when the holster is on, it tends to close up when the gun is out due to the waist curving.

    Crash: Thanks
    Funny how that works.....seems the guys that make and sell holsters have had and solved problems like this....
    Nice looking project, you learn by trying.
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  17. #37

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    Farley, if you stitch or glue a strip of 8-9 oz. leather on the top out side it will stay open for re-holstering. It's all about experimenting. I have about a dozen scrap holsters that I didn't like, but they get better and better. I even think mine are looking and working like they should.
    Vacuum sealers(food saver or the like) work great for wet forming. I found that I don;t need to soak the leather, just dampen it.

  18. #38

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    nice work. i'm a leather worker and i can add just a bit of knowledge to you on this. add a small piece of leather at the top of the holster from the top edge down to about the bottom button, this will add more strength to the holster , also allowing to keep its shape longer then normal. sew it just like you did the other seems, bevel edges for a smoother and less wear and tear on them. very nice.
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  19. #39
    Junior Member Jpflier's Avatar
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    To the question about vacuum bagging, it does work, but you need to keep work it while it sits for awhile. I had a knife sheath that I liked, but the knife would sometimes fall out of it, so I soaked the sheath for about 30 minutes, oiled up the knife, wrapped it up in plastic wrap, stuck it in th sheath and vac'd it down with a food saver vacuum packer for several hours. I did rub the sheath through the bag some, but not enough. When I took it out and let it dry all the way the knife stayed better, but not as well as I wanted, so I did the same thing again. This time I rubbed the leather around the shape of the knife about every fifteen minute or so with a stick with a rounded tip (which I used before too) pushing pretty hard as I work it around the entire knife handle and blade. This time it came out just the way I wanted, I could pull the knife out with just a bit of a tug and I could feel the knife sort of "pop" into place when I put it into the sheath. Now I need to do it to another knife and sheath since the other one has gone awol.

  20. #40

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    I stitch my holsters together, put the pistol in it, saturate the leather with rubbing alcohol and hand mold it to the pistol and then dry it with a hair dryer. Been doing that for years on holsters and knife sheaths. The alcohol evaporates very quickly and doesn't hurt the surfaces of the knife or gun. Oh, I use 90% or stronger rubbing alcohol, then I seal it with a generous coating of Snow Seal and melt it in with the hair dryer too.
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