Latest design

[klkak]

This is my latest design for a hard use bush knife. I'm gonna have a better knife maker then me do this one. If anyone likes the design you are more then welcome to use it.

[Ken]

What? No little round compass? No fishin' gear? No matches?

You ain't gonna' see Sarge gettin' one of those!

[Sourdough]

Kevin, you might consider: www.ravenblades.com in Wasilla, Alaska. He is building me a custom Chainsaw Mounting system for my Big Husky on the Ski-Doo SWT.

[gryffynklm]

Nice, the handle looks comfortable. I saw some cocobolo at woodcraft yesterday, thought about knife scales. Makes me itch to try making blades.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks like we a similar idea! Klak

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[canid]

i like the design. maybe i'll try to reproduce it in a buildalong some time soon.

[klkak]

Yes it does CS. I need a knife that is almost indestructible. I'm getting to old to carry all the stuff I used to. So I'm starting to carry lighter more multi-purpose items. Thats where the bigger hard use knife comes in. I have a D2 RAT-3 for the lighter work.

"BTW, I gave the Mora 2000 to my grandson. You should have seen the look on his face when I did. He had to go tell his mom that he had a "big" knife like papa. If I ain't careful I'm going to spoil that boy".

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

This one is 9 in. long and the blade is 3/16" thick, I was doing my best on this one so I'd like to think it is ideal for most tasks! Good luck with your perfect knife.

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Great minds must think alike!! Mine is similar to both of yours!! Mine is 10 1/4"x 1 1/2"x 3/16" see Poco bowie WIP thread. Actually Kevin it isn't all that hard. I would think you would be able to do it!

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Thanks sjj!! You just gave me some ideas!!

What are you meaning by "knurling"? Are You talking about on the side of the blade or the spine? If possible I may even incorporate it on the "Bowie" I'm working on now. I mean possible for my skill level.

[canid]

your knife does extra duty as a grappling hook, you are forgiven.

the handle on that one looks like turned steel, am i right?

[Rick]

Well, I drooled over that knife 'till my spit turned to dust. Rambo: "They drew first blood, not me."

[klkak]

I have a buck master out in the shed I think. I bought it about 20 years ago. The handle broke off about 19 years ago. Oh well.

[Batch]

I broke one hammering it through a gators spine. She sure didn't appreciate my choice of weapons to kill her with. It was sharp and cut the pipes on either side of the spine. But, I couldn't get between the vertebrae.

[hunter63]

Candid,

No serious real world application except perhaps hand to hand combat with a bear

"Right smart leaving the knife in, let Grizz bleed out, it will, Pilgrim."

"T'wern't time to pull it out..........."
JJohnson

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Poco,

The concept is to have a knurled, rough, and/or slightly raised spot on the top of the back part of the blade/spine located where your thumb would rest when you are "chocking" up on the knife to do something detailed like cutting a notch. Something I'm sure you do instinctively. A place to help keep your thumb from slipping with downward pressure. At the same time, try leaving a good flat spot (with sharp edges) on the top spine for striking a ferro rod. Some folks like to put a half moon notch on the bottom blade side close to the handle, but, I much prefer a blade design with the sharp edge going all the way back to the handle that aids detail work - exactly like Klkak has designed. Klkak's use of 1095 steel will make a GREAT stricker that should be exploited.

I like the extended metal tang part out the butt with lanyard hole to allow for some solid metal to strike with that won't destroy the handle. Not the proper tool for striking, but I find it an extremely useful function. Even with the relatively short blade, the 1/4" full bevel grind will provide a heavy enough knife to do some chopping with and I find a lanyard wrapped around the wrist allows a more secure grip with a little farther back grasp providing a lot more leverage. Although the full bevel grind is "not" attractive to most folks and is the simplest of designs, it provides for a natural wedge shape that when battoned really splits wood efficiently without binding at the flat spot of the blade. Starting off with a little thicker piece of steel (4/16 instead of 3/16) a full bevel grind will give you similar weight and strength while providing a perfect wedge shape.

While I'm on the subject of chopping, you most always hear folks discuss the "length" and weight of the blade as the determining factor for performance. You seldom hear anyone discuss the length of the handle as a factor. In reality, you can greatly improve the chopping ability of any knife with a longer handle. Because of this, my personal preference is to go with a little longer handle than most would consider pleasing to the eye. With a little longer handle, you retain the versatility and reduced weight of a relatively short blade while having significantly greater chopping force.

Well I think I must have instinctively done what you are talking about. I don't know why, but I just started putting small grooves across the spine where the thumb would rest, with a 3 corner file But fell short in what you are talking about with the pommel and longer handle.

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But you have given me more ideas!! Duly noted and thank you for the insight!