Do you think the steel in the flat pry bar would make a good knife? They seem springy and the local hardware has them on sale for two dollars.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...sigb=12kvg44de
Pry bar steel
Do you think the steel in the flat pry bar would make a good knife? They seem springy and the local hardware has them on sale for two dollars.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...sigb=12kvg44de
I looked around a bit and could only find a couple of references to materials used in that type of pry bar. They were all a carbon steel reference - without being too specific, so I think it'll work. Worst cast scenario is if you buy a couple and the first one doesn't work - you've still got some pry bars.
Thanks for the info Crash. I think I'll do that for a future project.
I use flat-bars religiously in my line of work. I would like to know the results of this experiment. keep us posted!
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I know that Cowboysurvival hasn't been on-line as much lately, but you might want to shoot him a pm. In his line of work, he could probably give you the specifics on materials used in them.
Guys, I might be wrong, but I almost sure that most of them are cast iron. I do no think you can forge the stuff at all. You may be able to cold work it with good results, but not great ones. Just my 2 cents. I'll do some checking when I have time.
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
CS,
You may be right about them being cast. Dag-nab-it! I thought I might have found a good and cheap source of knife making steel.
Cast iron would not make a very good prybar. It is to brittle. I did some internet looking and every reference I could find refered to alloy steel.
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I have thought about trying them also but havnt really got around to it. I think they must be a spring steel of some type and probably an alloy. I can check the hardness on one later and see what it comes in at. My guess is it is tempered to spring steel (in the 40's) and you would have work out a heat treat formula to make a usable blade out of it.
Camp, Looks like your spot on. I found a Stanley that was forged tool steel! Rebel you might be onto something after all!
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
You're alright CS! We need to find the best brand of pry bar and the "formula".Originally Posted by COWBOYSURVIVAL
At that price I'd just give it a go just like a file or leafspring! Yeah you can get alot more technical than that but I like just trying stuff.
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
http://www.tooled-up.com/MicroCatego...=1617#prodlist
Take a look at the specs on the Stanley wonder bar. There are also several that state forged alloy.
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
You're right about that. I learned a new thing today, don't do your colors in the day light. You can get a better idea of the color while you're heating, when it's dark.
Do you use a magnet or just go by color? Assuming you are talking about forging and not tempering.
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
Magnet, after I can see red. A straw color for tempering.
Same way I do it!
Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...
"Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS
"How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson
It seems the Stanley flat bar I have is differentially treated. I dont know if this was be design or accident but the nail pullers (I guess thats what you would call them) are around 54 Rc while the main body is 45-47 Rc. Mine has been abused but I dont remember it getting into any heat source that may have changed the temper. I would say that if that is the case, this would be a decent knife steel.
I use the stanleys because they are flatter on the flat end. I have to agree that they are NOT cast iron because they'd never hold up to the abuse I put them through. I don't know much about steels and all that mumb0-jumb0 1052steel stuff, but they make a good ping when struck. heat from a bernzomatic cylinder with rosebud torch doesn't hurt them, but it's not really very hot, nor exposed for very long when I have to use heat. of all the ones I've tried over the years, the stanley holds up best.
Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing. Helen Keller
My Plants
My skills
Eye Candy
Plant terminology reference!
Moving pictures
I use a pry bar every day. I have beat the crap out of mine and it barely shows any ware. they do flex when pulling on them. so I know that they are not cast iron. the steel is realy strong. if you had a long one you could probably make an excellent machetty (cant spell this right) oh well you know what I mean.
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