Barrel leading

Bought a 9mm Taurus pistol for a gun class I plan to take later this month. It is a 2 day class and we will shoot 750 rounds of ammo in the class. I'm taking the new pistol to the target range for a test firing and target practice, shooting my powder coated cast bullets I have been purchasing. This pistol shot great at first then began shooting all over the place. No accuracy at all. Cleaning the pistol I discovered serious barrel leading, it was bad. Purchased a Lewis Lead removing kit. The Lewis lead remover uses a fine mesh brass screen on an expanding arbor pulled through the barrel. Unbelievable the lead that was on the screen. I spoke to the guy that makes these cast bullets about the leading and he said the reloading powder was to hot. I was using "Tight Group". On a scale of 1 - 200 Tight Group is #15. I loaded up a batch of CFE Pistol that has a heat range of around 40. Test fired 30 rounds of the CFE and still had serious leading in the barrel but the leading was mostly at the front of the barrel not at the breach. I cleaned the pistol and cleaned the lead from the barrel and test fired store bought ammo with a full metal jacket,,,,,no leading at all.
So I have 1000 rounds loaded up that I can't use in the Taurus pistol.

I also have a "Just Right Carbine" in 45 ACP for about a year. I have not always been happy with how it shot. Shooting the same powder coat cast bullets as the 9mm I purchased a Lewis lead remover in the 45 ACP. While I couldn't see the lead in the barrel there was lead on the Lewis lead remover screen, lots of lead. Took extra effort to clean and remove any lead from the barrel. Took it to the range for a test firing with Remington ammo full metal jacket. The Just Right Carbine never shot so well before with the reloads. It had a nice tight group, best ever. Fortunately I only have a few 45 ACP reloads on hand with powder coated bullets.

Seems like I learn something every time I go to the gun range.

Gun ranges always have something to teach. Before going to the military, my father would always get me there. He taught me how to shoot properly and why people should know how to use a gun. He also taught me how to repair most of the problems a gun might have. We even chose together a tripod from A LINK THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT. We needed it to go hunting. He said it is much easier to shoot a statue than a moving creature. It was no fun killing birds, but we had a good time.

For now, I'll chalk the link you posted as a mistake on your part.

You're getting soft...

Alan

https://images.nationalprostaff.com/.../logo/logo.jpg

Mr. Glass,
How did your leading issue turn out? I realize this is an old thread that the spammer brought back to life but I am curious how you addressed your challenge. My limited knowledge on leading has taught me that it is either one of three things. 1. The bullets are too soft. 2. I loaded them too hot IE driving them too fast. or 3. The bore is rough. I am a big fan of JB Compound. I have used it on new barrels and older barrels that were damaged by rust or erosion. It is not a quick answer but it has always seemed to help me.

Hey DSJOHNSON; Glad to see someone is still around. I use jacketed bullets when reloading ammo for those two guns and that seemed to resolve the leading issue. I can still use the cast bullets in my PSA 9mm AR-15 and in a Springfield 1911 45 ACP with no leading problems. My theory is the cheaper guns don't have a smooth bore, lend themselves to leading.

I'm still target shooting but not grinding through the ammo like the the old days.

Mr. Glass,
I have slowed way down on my shooting also. I miss being able to just use "straight wheel weights" to make great, hard bullets. I shot many hundreds of home cast 44s in my M29 without any leading issue. But since wheel weight composition has changed it is not that simple anymore. For several reasons, including availability of components. I am at this strange place; in that I have components that I can use to load up and shoot but I am not sure I can easily replace them. I may have to learn how to make my own primers, or just go back to shooting my percussion revolvers for fun and practice, or my flintlocks. Be safe

I have reloaded a couple of primers using caps from toy cap guns. Remove the anvil with sharp pointed object. Next make a special pin to iron out the firing pin detent in the primer cup. Take a trimmed cap and drop into the cup then replace the anvil. Sprinkle a small amount of fine gun power like True Blue around the anvil to increase the flash from the cap.
This is painstakingly time consuming. I have yet to load one of these up and test fire. I decided I would be further ahead to buy one of those PCP pellet rifles than reload primers.

I usually see primers for sale at gun shows. The last primers I saw were $140 per thousand. Still cheaper than buying new ammo

I'm able to buy 22LR in Iowa for a fair price so last summer I bought a nice Ruger 10/22 so I shoot lots of 22LR.