http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php A public discussion forum on wilderness surivival, primitive technology, and disaster preparedness. en Fri, 09 Jan 2009 13:53:02 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=185 Thu, 01 Jan 2009 23:50:14 GMT *Jan 1/09* *Time:* 2 pm *Temp:* -24C/-11F * With Wind Chill (N 20 kph, gusting):* -33C/-27F *Distance:* 3 miles Jan 1/09

Time: 2 pm

Temp: -24C/-11F

With Wind Chill (N 20 kph, gusting): -33C/-27F

Distance: 3 miles

Time Elapsed: 1 hour

Terrain: Street, mild inclines.

Worn:

Ready Pack (35lbs)

Base Layer: Dakota "driwear performance thermal top"
Large. Composition: 66% micro-nylon, 21% micro-polyester, 13% spandex..
http://www2.marks.com/productdetails...8?OpenDocument

Mid Layer (medium):North Face 100% polyester fleece jacket

Top Layer (medium):Wind River, 2XL, 100% polyester fleece jacket.
Windproof membrane. Moisture-wicking lining.

Polyester balaclava
Polyester fleece liner gloves
Polyester liner socks (forgot wool over-socks!)
Snow pants
Kamik snow boots
Wool boxer-briefs

Notes:

I continue to be impressed by how well this base layer keeps me dry, and how layering in general is a far superior temperature regulator than just having one heavy coat.. I was warm and toasty the whole way, and I think I would have been warm even had I not been walking the whole way.. Armpit and small of back hardly got wet at all, and the wetness there was was wicked to the outside of the base layer shirt.

I maintained a relaxed,even pace, and when I did feel a bit hot all it took was taking off the balaclava for 30 seconds or so to get my temp down..

The pack felt good.. Tight in the chest area at first, but once I got used to it, I was fine..

I forgot to put on the wool socks over the poly liner socks! Feet were still nice and warm, though (I love these boots).. Some excessive rubbing, but nothing even close to causing a blister.. ]]> dougz http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=185 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=184 Mon, 29 Dec 2008 00:08:24 GMT *Dec 28/08* *Time:* 11am *Temp:* -15 C * Wind:* n/a *Distance:* 6 miles, cross-country skiing *Terrain:* Groomed run, moderate hills Dec 28/08

Time: 11am

Temp: -15 C Wind: n/a

Distance: 6 miles, cross-country skiing

Terrain: Groomed run, moderate hills

Worn:

Base Layer:

Dakota "driwear performance thermal top"

Size: Large.

Composition:

66% micro-nylon, 21% micro-polyester, 13% spandex..

http://www2.marks.com/productdetails...8?OpenDocument

Mid Layer:

Wind River 2XL 100% polyester fleece jacket.
Windproof membrane.
Moisture-wicking lining.

Top Layer:

North Face 100% polyester fleece jacket


Polyester "micro-fleece" liner gloves
Polyester liner socks, wool socks over that.
Insulated cross-country ski boots
Poly. hat w/ear flaps
Wool boxers
Snow pants

Notes:

The "driwear" base layer top kept me dry, and my second and 3rd layers were the items that got wet with sweat..

I took both top layers off, and I was steaming, but dry!

Definately better than that polyester shirt that I had on the other day..

I should have put my 2nd and 3rd layers back ON sooner, though..

They were COLD after about 10 minutes.. LOL

So all in all I'm quite impressed with this layering thing..

Tried starting a fire with my Magic Striker:

http://www.scientificutility.com/prod_striker.htm

Tried igniting "witches hair".. Nothing...

I was making sparks to beat the band, but the Witches Hair would not go!

Was about to write off the Magic Striker as an emergency fire starter when I decided to try shavings of Magic Ignitor fatwood..

This DID go up, and if I'd spent the time getting a proper kindling tee-pee set up I would have been off to the races..

Still, I think I'm going to put a Bic lighter in a ziploc bag and be done with it.. LOL ]]> dougz http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=184 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=183 Sat, 27 Dec 2008 01:59:34 GMT Dec 26/08 Time: 11am Temp: -15C/5F Wind: 12 kph, gusting Distance: 3 miles Terrain: Street, mild inclines. Dec 26/08

Time: 11am

Temp: -15C/5F Wind: 12 kph, gusting

Distance: 3 miles

Terrain: Street, mild inclines.

Worn:

Ready Pack (35lbs)
Poly. hat w/ear flaps
Columbia winter jacket
Cotton tee shirt
Poly. "micro-fleece" liner gloves
Snow pants
Jockey undershorts
Cotton tube socks
Snow boots

Notes:

I worked up quite a sweat this time, it being so warm out.. :)

I think the next time I'm going to test out the synthetic thermal long john top to see how effective this is at wicking away sweat from my body.. If it isn't, I'm going to have to keep in mind to slow down to prevent sweating in the first place, and to have a change of shirt in my pack (check!)..

My groin area got chaffed a bit, and my tube socks sloughed off my feet a few times and I had to remove my boots and pull them up again..

I'll try wearing the wool long socks next time, and boxer-briefs instead of shorts..

Really liking these liner gloves.. Hold up against the wind pretty good, and are far less bulky than those hockey gloves! ]]> dougz http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=183 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=182 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:19:19 GMT Making cooking pots......my way I rarely ever bring metal cooking pots in the forests with me becuase I know how to make pots for cooking and... Making cooking pots......my way


I rarely ever bring metal cooking pots in the forests with me becuase I know how to make pots for cooking and water purifacation out of all natural materials. In any woodland region, your always going to find a fallen dead or half-rotten tree, or some sort of stump. Simply, utilizing coals from a hot fire, you can turn a fallen log or stump into a servicable pot in under an hour using a method called coal-burning. When I make my pots, I use a strip of rough bark that has been soaked in water or is green, and use that as a sort of shovel to pick up masses of hot coals. I place these on top of the stump or log on a relativeley flat surface, and usually to get a good pot, a mass of coals about 8 inches in diameter spread across the wood is ideal. Now, wait about 10 minutes for the coals to burn the wood a little, and then I use a hollowed out thistle plant stem, or reed shoot to blow controlled air onto the coals to magnify the heat to speed the proccess up ( you can also use the windpipe of an animal, but I have never done this). When the coals die down, scrape them off, and I use a stick to scrape the charred wood from inside the very small deppression formed by the coals. Then I repeat the proccess, and within an hour of burning, blowing, and scraping I get a bowl. I carrry them back to camp if they are small logs or stumps, but big ones take dragging back to camp. I used woodchuck fat to smear the bowl inside to keep it from cracking and to water proof it. Now to boil water, I simply heat up bits of granite or some dense rock ( not ones collected by water as they might explode) in a fire until they are red hot. Using my tongs created by bending a sapling and flatning the tips, and tying sinew to hold them in place, I pick up those dozens of rocks one by one and place them in the container, and the water boils. A baseball sized rock will keep a half-gallon container boiling for about 20 minutes. I once cooked Rabbit by throwing strips of meat into the bowl while it boiled. I don't know I think this is handy trick I know because I never need metal pot. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=182 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=181 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:18:37 GMT MAKING MY LONG-TERM SURVIVAL BOWS- Aarons way First I must stress the difference between a short-term bow and a long-term bow. A short-term bow... MAKING MY LONG-TERM SURVIVAL BOWS- Aarons way

First I must stress the difference between a short-term bow and a long-term bow. A short-term bow usually consists of uncured freshly cut wood that has not been shaped properly, and takes under an hour to construct, and is adequate for small game such as fish, frogs, birds, and maybe a small mamamal. These bows usually won't last more than a couple weeks. A long-term bow, although still under "survival weapons", is a bow that takes many good days of careful craftsmanship, and wood that has been cured until dry and has been oiled. These bows will usually last many months to a couple years, and sometimes lifetimes of good hunting if made carefully and tooken care of. I first travel into the woods with my hatchet, or a large chucnk of flint, and search the forests for a small tree that is anywhere from 1 1/2 inches to 4 inches thick in diameter. The tree is straight and about 50-78 inches long and has little to no knots on it. I carefully chop it down at the base, and give thanks. And you have to consider the type of wood, most hard-wood trees such as Oak, Walnut, Osage Orange, Ironwood, Locust, and many other hard-wood trees provide good wood. Medium hard-woods like willow or Poplar make servicable bows, but may lasts only a few months. Coniferous woods like Spruce or Pine have to brittle of fibers and make poor long-term bow woods. Any wood will long-stretched fibers and elacticsity make good bow. The woods are full of bow staves, but I choose the best one. I do not take small saplings, which consist of all sapwood, and the growth rings are spaced, so the wood will take a set and have poor spring. I have to options- Peel the bark off the stave, split it or leave it bear, rub it all over with nut oil or animal fat, seal the ends with birch tar or pine pitch to keep from cracking-------or work the wood into a bow while it's still freshly cut. When im making my bows with stone tools, working with green wood is much easier. What I like to do is make a small water proof debris hut next to my camp shelter, and store a couple bow staves in it to dry. And then work on a fresh cut stave into a bow. Here in Virginia by my house has plenty good wood. I Shape the stave by removing even strips of wood along the belly of the stave, leaving the reddish denser heartwood (found on 1 1/2 inches or more thick trees) on the belly to take the compression of being bent inward, and the I shave wood off the back to leave sapwood to take the stretch of being bent. I follow the growth rings and never cut into the back of the bow in fear I might damage fibers.I stick to primitive bow methods, no rigid handles or special laminates, just one single even bending arch. This will be less likely to break and will be easier to draw, and will last long. Once the bow is crafted, I put the notches on, and wrap the ends in sinew to prevent breakage (if I have any sinew). Using primitive cordage or nylon, I tie the bow extremely tight to a staright tree, so that it dries straight and doesn't warp. I rub a thick coat of fat onto the bow, and seal the ends off with pine pitch, cloth with fat, or birch tar. I make oil from crushing hooves of large animals, boiling it down to get oil. Crushing hazelnuts and acorns you can extract some oil to apply to your bow, but it may take a few nuts lol.Then I let it dry for weeks to come in the sun and next to the fire and smoke. The smoking penetrates the wood and turns it a bueatiful brown color. Fire-killed wood is something I always take advantage of, but it's rare especially in Gungy Wamp. That type of wood is already dried becuase the tree is dead, so all you enitially have to do is shape the bow and string it up to hunt with. I make some serious hunting weight bows, pulling 60 pounds, well enough to kill a deer. The arrows shoot anywhere from 85-105 mph, pretty fast. I always have staves on me so that IF my bow breaks I can make another from cured wood. I take care of my bows, rubbing oil or fat onto them every week to keep it from cracking and to keep the bow waterproof. All you need to make these bows are shards of flint, or a knife and hactchet. Just becuase a bow is primitively produced does not mean it won't kill for you, it can reguarly hit the bullseye. Iv'e killed plenty with these bows. But I put as much effort into traps and snares so I don't rely on just a bow to obtain food. I use nylon for my bowstrings, Yucca cordage and sinew crafted by my own hands. This is the simplest way I can tell you guys about making bows. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=181 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=180 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:17:09 GMT My way of crafting my survival arrows..... I will be describing how I make long-term survival arrows, not short-term ones.I make my arrows out of... My way of crafting my survival arrows.....

I will be describing how I make long-term survival arrows, not short-term ones.I make my arrows out of willow, caittail and foxtail reed reinforced with sinew at the ends. I cut down fresh or dead shoots with flint or my knife that grow very straight and have no knots. They are about as thick as a pencil, to about 1 1/2 quarter inch thick I precut my hunting arrows to about 26 inches long, but leave my fishing arrows about twice my arms length, or about 42 inches long. My fish arrows are split with a shard of flint near the tip about 3 inches down, a small piece of wood inserted to seperate the points, tied with sinew, and the two points ahrpened and fire-heardened to get a two-pronged arrow which makes hitting a fish easier. I began making arrows by shaving ( knife or flint at right angles, as to not cut into the wood, as with bows!!!!) the bark off the shoots, and rubbing them with animal fat. I tie the arrows together in three spots tightly so that they dry staright, getting a bundle of arrows. About two weaks later, I break and discard any arrows that have cracks or checks in them, formed by the inner wood drying faster than the outer wood, causing splits. This happens with bows, but applying a thick layer of oil or fat will prevent this from happening. The ones that are good, I hand straighten the arrow over the coals, and fire-harden the arrow. Fire-hardening removes sap from the inner wood, making it harder and dryer ( don't do this with freshly cut bows, it could crack) Using a knife or edged flint, I carefully saw a notch about a quarter inch deep at the end of the shaft, and wrap under neath it with sinew, it could crack taking strikes from the bowstring when fired. ( Remember I shape the arrow if need be, don't think Im just shooting a stick). I then sharpen the tip of the arrow into a point and the fire-harden it, a very primitive way that is effective against small game. But a more durable head is reccommened for large game, and long-term purposes. Or I chop a branch down that is about 1 and half inch thick, split it into sections, and work an arrowhead shape from it and put notches on its sides. ( as seen in my pics). Then fire-harden it until it's like bamboo. This is extremely effective, in that, it provides a larger hole entry when shot into an animal, ideal for big game, but provides no cutting power. This is what I do when flint is not available to make arrowheads. It is used by tribal people all over the world to tackle large game. I once used a split shard of rotten deer femur leg to get a bone arrowhead, but thats it. Slate provides good arrowheads with slight cutting power. But when flint is available, I knapp out a very sharp arrowhead ( enough to shave your hair). Flint is found anywhere where glaciers have dug out lakes and left creeks where deposits of limestone and granite are found. Northeastern region has lots of flint. I split the tip of my arrows about 2 icnhes down, rub pine pitch onto the arrowhead, insert the arrowhead into the split, and wrapping underneath the arrowhead with wet sinew about 3 icnhes down the split. As sinew dries, it shrinks leaving an extremely tight binding. I rub molten pine pitch mixed with wood ash ( so it dries hard, or liquid from animal eyes) onto the sinew so that it protects it with a waterproof seal. My arrowheads are about 2 inches long and about 1 1/2 inches wide. I then apply fletching to the shafts to stabilize the arrow for better distance and accuracy ( fletching is not needed, an un-fletched arrow has an accurate distance of about 15-20 feet). I use any stiff tail feathers of birds, like those from Grouse or Ducks which I hunt and are plentiul near lakes ( one bird should supply me with 3 fletchings worth arrow, and when i say birds I mean large game birds, not small ones) I split the feather along its quill, shave underneath until it's flat, leaveing about half inch of bare quill on each side to tie on the flethcing ( look at my pics). The flethcings are about 4-5 icnhes long. I use sinew to tie the fletching onto the shaft evenly on both sides ( I only use two feathers, not three). I secure the sinew with pine pitch to prtoect it. The fletching lay flat on the arrow shaft. A..In areas where feathers are not available, I turn ot brother pine, for his needles for flethcing. I gather three tufts of fresh needles, twist them together, tie the large end to the shaft, bend the needles slightly so that they catch the air, and secure the other end. *(look at my pics) Im using sinew to tie them on. This method works for a couple of shots, but is effective and the maeterials are plentiful. Hair, leaves can be used for fletching also. I made a quiver out of small saplings woven with caittail leaves ( almost like a basket but long and thin) , but I will have to make another one and posts it on hear. These arrows are accurate and I use them to hunt. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=180 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=179 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:16:05 GMT Cordage making......my way I consider the type of matreials for this job. My favorite is sinew, Indian Hemp is fine, and Yucca, well just check my... Cordage making......my way

I consider the type of matreials for this job. My favorite is sinew, Indian Hemp is fine, and Yucca, well just check my pictures. I think Yucca is found throughout the southwestern region, and Indian Hemp found in the northeastern region, but sinew is found whereever you get an animal. Hemp cordage is my second favorite (being that it is easy to identify and the leaves can be crushed to poison fish for food, but im always careful with preperation). I strip long sections of the bark off. I use rock to pound fibers out, and soak them in water. I then twist and kink the strands of fibers togehter, and to get bowstring I splice them together. This method of splicing does not produce knots, just an even long strand of cordage. Give me a good amount of cordage material and I can produce you a bowstring in less than 30 minutes. Sinew is found on the back and legs of snimals. It can be cut out, dried, and pounded. Sinew makes very very very strong cordage, and I made a snare out of a strand before ( never caught anything with it but it had the same basic qualities as a nylon snare). Yucca makes cordage, the roots can be crushed and added to water for soap, and the yellow flowers are edible, I beleive. Cordage making is very simple and is good to know. But I only use homemade cordage ocassionally. Splicing is done by getting a long length of fibers and a slighlty shorter length of fibers. The even ends are tied together with an overhand knot. The shorter end is twisted around another end of long fibers, and the first longer fibers are wrapped around the twists to secure them, then I repeat the proccess to get long cordage. Twisted animal intestine is used by me for bowstrings and campcraft, while the dried inner bark of trees like Maple, Basswood, and many others provide really strong cordage. I strip a few pieces of each tree, soak them in creek water for about a couple hours, and remove the inner bark, twisting it into strong cordage to dry. This is especially useful for me when I make small game snares or flechting materials, and it could make a servicable bowstring, but I have never made one before out of inner bark. Also, with stretched animal hides, like those from Deer or Woodchuck, using a knife I cut a spiral in the hide, stretch out the cord and twist it to dry. I have done this with a rotten Deer, check my pictures. Another method I feel takes some time but removes all non-fibourous ppant material is soaking. I dig a small trench at the side of a creek where water can flow in, and I put the cordage material into the water. I let it sit for a good week, and by then all non-fiborous material will be rotted away. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=179 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=178 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:14:58 GMT Fishing with poisons.....my way

Iv'e only used poison to fish a couple times, using a small variety of plants. Indian Hemp, which is a small shrub plant that grows about 2-4 feet tall, with pinkish smooth stalk and green oval leaves ( they produce milky substance when crushed). I simply crush the leaves up in a pool of water where fish are at, and the milky substance is spread around. Within minutes fish rise to the surface to be collected. I always make shure there are no cuts on my hands before I crush the leaves though as I can accidently poison myself. Careful preperation is stressed when cooking these fish, making shure I cook them good, to nuetralize the poison. Also, conservation of fish and water are stressed, I never poison waters that are enclosed, as not to kill future fish and pollute water. Pokeweed ( grows all over united states), which is also a small plant that grows 2-6 feet, has long oval green leaves, a dark brown greenish stalk, and small berries of dark purple in clusters hang from it. I love to eat pokeweed roots, by wetting a rock, placing the roots on it, and placing the rock in the fire, covered with ostrich fern to steam them. Simply crush the leaves until that greenish liquid is spread in the water, just like I said. These are two good ways that are reliable considering these plants grow in most wildernnes areas. Posioning kills fish by oxygen deprevation, neutrilizing the oxygen in the water and replacing it with poisons that interfere with the fishes gill function. Well thats how I do it. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=178 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=177 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:14:06 GMT My point of view..... Everyday, or at least every other day, for three years, I have been going to the woods to spend hours honing my skills. The... My point of view.....


Everyday, or at least every other day, for three years, I have been going to the woods to spend hours honing my skills. The type of survival I practice is primitive wilderness survival, or survival that takes place in one area, and the person in that situation remains there forever as long as the materials are plentiful (edible wild plants and animals, firewood........). I don't learn SAS type survival ( a.k.a short-term survival) where people just want to get out. This type of survival consists of navigation, and makeshift tools and shelters intended to keep you going so that you can reach civilization. I practice these skills- Hunting, Tracking, Long-term shelter construction, Trapping, primitive long-term weapon building, food preperation, edible wild plants, camp craft (making cooking utensils and cooking pots), water purifacation, and clothing making, cordage making, and reading the landscape with peace. These all fall under the "primitive" category. Don't ask me short-term questions becuase I most likely won't know them, leave that to the televison set people, or the media. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=177 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=176 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:12:43 GMT Revised bowmaking material gathering...... I always like to talk about the different types of bows. All primitive bows are survival bows, under the... Revised bowmaking material gathering......

I always like to talk about the different types of bows. All primitive bows are survival bows, under the condition that they are made of all natural materials and are designed to hunt and capture animals for food. Short-term survival bows, are the type of bows you would construct to capture a quick-time evening meal of small fish or frogs. These types of bows are usually made from something simple and crude like a small snaky sapling or a branch from a tree, regardless of the amount of knots on it as long as it bends for proper function. They take usually no more than 15 minutes to construct along with a few arrows of green wood, and will last no more than 1 week. Another set of weapons that would be considered short-term survival tools are crude tools like throwing sticks or short fire-hardened spears. Regardless, the cast, or arrow speed and force, is slowly reduced after each shot when using a short-term bow of green wood. Thus, it would be more productive to start from scratch and start on making a long-term survival bow. This long-term bow making will require time and proper woodcraft, and added the right materials. Coniferous trees like Pine and Spruce, generally make poor bows due to the fact that the wood has brittle fibers and light wood, so I always avoid this type of wood. Meduim hardwoods like Willow or Poplar will produce a bow of about acceptable function, but they lack in cast or springback, so they may shoot with less force after about a month. Maple has great spring to it and is good bow wood. Sassasfras is also good for bows. Hardwoods like Oak, Osage Orange, Hickory, Ironwood, and many other woods like that make excellent bows for the long-term purpose. It is reccommend that a chopping tool like a large chunk of flint or a metal hacthet is carried if planning to make a bow. A sharp piece of flint or metal knife should also be carried. Modern cordage like Nylon makes good cordage for bowstrings, carry at least 50 feet of the stuff. Primitive cordage can be crafted from varoius species of plants like Indian Hemp and Yucca, along with sinew, twisted intestine, and rawhide make servicable cordage. Branches, saplings, or small diameter trees are the ideal source of bow wood. The stave should have little to no knots, be a straight as possible, and be at least 1 1/2-3 1/2 thick. Thicker wood has heartwood, which appears as a darker reddish wood in the center of the tree and is dense and ideal with copping the pressure of compression. So it is ideally placed on the belly of the bow, and stretchy sapwood on the back. To prepare the bow stave, scrape all bark, including the inner bark, off. Then, rub a thick layer of animal fat or neats-foot oil over the stave, and then finally seal the ends off of the bow stave with pine pitch to prevent cracking. On thicker staves, say ones exceding 3 inches, you can split the stave in half, and rub each half with grease. Warping may occur, due to the irregular pressure from moisture changes, but you should be able to work around it. Set these staves a good 8 weeks in a dry location such as a water proofed debris hut as storage. The shaping process will come later in time. I shape bows with a piece of flint or a knife. I start by removing thin strips of wood from the belly of the stave. I leave a good amount of heartwood on the belly, and sapwood on the back for stretch. I finish it off by scraping the wood at right angles with knife (makes it fine like sandpapered wood). Then, being careful not to cut into the fibers on the back, I scrape wood evenly on each side. Eventually I will come to a point where the stave becomes rather flexible, I set my bows at about 50-60 pound draw weight (enough to take down a deer, or at least knock you off your feet when your hit by it). I taper the ends into rat tails (with traditional rat nocks) and wrap the ends in sinew to cope with the compression and force from the draw string. I warm the bow near the fire and rub it with animal fat, and set it aside. Primitive bows bend in one even arc for extra arrow draw and will be less prone to break, and I refrain from using laminates or arrowrests, things that do not come naturally. Sometimes I will steam bend the middle so the ends take on an arch formation and give a push-pull effect for much greater cast and arrow speed. My bows are not crude, and the last one I have tested had fired about 200 yards at arrow speeds around 110 MPH. I have succesfully hunted many game animals. ]]> Jericho117 http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?b=176