canid
10-20-2009, 03:41 AM
these are the strings i prefer. they are hand twined, and made fom 80lb test braided fishing line. this one is 6 strand.
i start by twinning two bundles of between 2 and 4 strands each, depending on the bow they will be paired with. i take special care to ensure each strand is laying straight with the others, and that each bundle is pulled evenly tight, so they share a similar load when tension is applied.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting01.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting02.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting03.jpg
when the string is finished, i tie a small knot at the end and trim if needed. if one or more ends is longer than the others and you started with evenly cut strands, it is shorter than the others and it will end up bearing a disproportionally high load. this could result in that strand's breaking, so you want to be sure with each twist to twist both bundles the same amount and pull both bundles slightly taught after you let the end twist up.
next, i begin making the loops.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loop01.jpg
with the loop measured to final desired size, i untwist a section and pass the tag end through.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loop01.jpg
next, i tighten the area back up by twisting it back tight. i unravel the end again with one half turn closed and then slip the tag end through that, so it is woven two half turns through the twined string.
after this, i twist the tag end tight, and then untwist it, and pass the long end of the string through that, as i did with the other end, and again, another half turn down. now i have the tag end passed through two half turns of the string, and the string passed through two half turns of the tag end. this helps prevent the loop from trying to un-raven when load is applied. i then proceed to twin the tag end through the string, half turn at a time for the rest of it's length. i am finally left with the end knot resting against the body of the string. this will automatically tighten as load is applied to the string.
the finished loop looks like this:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loopfinished.jpg
i usually add serving to the loop, to keep it from unraveling even if the string is off of the bow, and as an added protection against friction and wear. i'll probably update this again when i find my serving thread, i use coats and clark heavy button thread, as used for coat buttons. i use the same for the serving at the nocking point.
i generally make the lower loop large enough to slide over the limb for several inches, and the upper loop just large enough to fit over the nock.
in this way, the bow is strung upside down, by sliding the loop up, over the bottom limb to brace [string] it, and stored with the string still attatched to the bow at the top nock, and the bottom limb through the bottom loop [a common practice]. this way the string won't untwist [lengthening it] while stored.
i make my strings a bit short, and tend to see about 2" of stretch the first time i use it. this stretch sets in permanently, and does not contine to stretch any more afterward. for this reason, i make the strings about 2" shorter than they need to be [for a full length bow]. other length adjustments can be made by twisting the string up more [to shorten], or untwisting it a bit [to lengthen].
i start by twinning two bundles of between 2 and 4 strands each, depending on the bow they will be paired with. i take special care to ensure each strand is laying straight with the others, and that each bundle is pulled evenly tight, so they share a similar load when tension is applied.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting01.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting02.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/twisting03.jpg
when the string is finished, i tie a small knot at the end and trim if needed. if one or more ends is longer than the others and you started with evenly cut strands, it is shorter than the others and it will end up bearing a disproportionally high load. this could result in that strand's breaking, so you want to be sure with each twist to twist both bundles the same amount and pull both bundles slightly taught after you let the end twist up.
next, i begin making the loops.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loop01.jpg
with the loop measured to final desired size, i untwist a section and pass the tag end through.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loop01.jpg
next, i tighten the area back up by twisting it back tight. i unravel the end again with one half turn closed and then slip the tag end through that, so it is woven two half turns through the twined string.
after this, i twist the tag end tight, and then untwist it, and pass the long end of the string through that, as i did with the other end, and again, another half turn down. now i have the tag end passed through two half turns of the string, and the string passed through two half turns of the tag end. this helps prevent the loop from trying to un-raven when load is applied. i then proceed to twin the tag end through the string, half turn at a time for the rest of it's length. i am finally left with the end knot resting against the body of the string. this will automatically tighten as load is applied to the string.
the finished loop looks like this:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/string%20making/loopfinished.jpg
i usually add serving to the loop, to keep it from unraveling even if the string is off of the bow, and as an added protection against friction and wear. i'll probably update this again when i find my serving thread, i use coats and clark heavy button thread, as used for coat buttons. i use the same for the serving at the nocking point.
i generally make the lower loop large enough to slide over the limb for several inches, and the upper loop just large enough to fit over the nock.
in this way, the bow is strung upside down, by sliding the loop up, over the bottom limb to brace [string] it, and stored with the string still attatched to the bow at the top nock, and the bottom limb through the bottom loop [a common practice]. this way the string won't untwist [lengthening it] while stored.
i make my strings a bit short, and tend to see about 2" of stretch the first time i use it. this stretch sets in permanently, and does not contine to stretch any more afterward. for this reason, i make the strings about 2" shorter than they need to be [for a full length bow]. other length adjustments can be made by twisting the string up more [to shorten], or untwisting it a bit [to lengthen].