Project For Today

[crashdive123]

All of this talk of knives lately......

As I said in another thread, I dropped off a design I drew up to have some blanks cut. It will be a fairly large knife made out of quarter inch thick steel. I haven't made many knives, and none from material that thick. Today seemed like a good day to practice a bit. I started with 3/16" flat stock that was 1" wide. I still need to finish the finger grooves (Dremel broke). Not sure what I'm going to do for scales - may use tool dip and keep it simple.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives014.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives015.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives016.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives017.jpg

[Sarge47]

Can't wait to see them when they're finished! :cool2:

[Sourdough]

What is that GREEN Stuff..........?

[crashdive123]

The stuff you find under the snow - what, about August?

[vthompson]

It looks like so far, so good to me.

[Rockgod1619]

I'm working on a knife project this summer too. Got my hands on some old leaf springs. Can't wait to see how yours turn out Crash!

[rebel]

Crash,
I like the style of your project and the grind looks good too.

[crashdive123]

Well, I found out a couple of things about Dremel tools. Primarily they are not intended for working on something this thick. If you replace the coupling between the spindle and motor with the only spare coupling that you have, it will shatter within seconds.

I finished smoothing the finger grove (didn't add any others) with hand files. I tempered the edge (not the whole knife) with a torch - don't have a forge. This project may dictate whether or not I make one sooner or later. I did a cord wrap and then used spray on tool dip for a coating. It's fairly heavy (5.35 ounces). For the next one, I'm going to try my hand at some bluejean micarta. I'll play with it this week to see how the edge (temper) holds up. If it does, then I'm giving it away. You've just gotta be at the Indiana Jamboree to get it.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives019.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives020.jpg

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Weapons/Knives021.jpg

[Pal334]

Sweet looking work there

[nell67]

Great job Crash,I like it alot,looks kind of small for a mans hands.....would fit nicely in a womans (hint,hint!)

[laughingbeetle]

nice looking blade Crash.

[chiye tanka]

Really nice Crash. I've got an Anza Boddington with almost the same profile.
So when do they go into production?:)

[Rick]

I do like that. Nice work.

[crashdive123]

Great job Crash,I like it alot,looks kind of small for a mans hands.....would fit nicely in a womans (hint,hint!)


It may at that, although using it today it did seem pretty comfortable. Just remember, you've got to be there to get it. On the next one I need to thin the blade a little more, but so far so good - it's all practice.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks great! I like the shaping, good work! I have worked with steel for a living for nearly 20yrs. Here is some advice and definately not criticism. The steel you start with is the steel you finish with. In pic 1 you show the stock you started with. I recognize it to be A36 structural flat bar. It has a reasonable carbon content. I to have made knives from the same. trouble is it won't hold an edge long enough to suit me. It is designated as Mild steel. Use of something such as leaf springs, chain saw blades, etc... will get you the added carbon content needed to "hold an edge". Yes heat treating does harden the material I think you used, but High Carbon steel is where it is at! I am also geting started on 3 knives. 2 are from leaf springs and the other is a chainsaw blade. I have only "drawn them back" (heat to 800 F and allow to cool slowly) this makes the hard stuff workable, at this point and will do a post soon. Look forward to your comments when I get it posted sometime this week. If you did not have to draw the material back to cut it with a file then the material is too soft, otherwise I am wrong.

[crashdive123]

I have worked with steel for a living for nearly 20yrs. Here is some advice and definately not criticism. The steel you start with is the steel you finish with. In pic 1 you show the stock you started with. I recognize it to be A36 structural flat bar. It has a reasonable carbon content.

You are right on target, and no, I didn't take it as criticism. It was more practice than anything - with material I had on hand. As you say, the test will be to see if it holds an edge.

[Badawg]

Very nice. Not much of a metal worker here myself, but I know good work when I see it. You did all of that with a dremel?

[crashdive123]

Dremel didn't hold up. I've got an el cheapo belt sander (one inch wide, 30 inch belt) that I did most of the work with. Some hand files for the tough to get at spots.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

You probably noticed the grey "scale" on the surface was harder to remove than the metal itself? If you did, you can speed up your work with a 10/1 solution of water/Muratic Acid. Soak the stock in the solution for approx. 1 hr. or untill it is removed - you will need to rub it off with a brush or rag once it loosens. Place a light coat of oil to prevent flash rusting until the shaping is started. This step really helps if you are using thicker A36. Hope this helps. Look for my post I am headin' out to get started on the leaf spring knife mentioned earlier.

[crashdive123]

Will do. Thanks for the tips.

[Gray Wolf]

Nice work Crash!

Good advice CowboySurvival.