PDA

View Full Version : Traps & Trapping



Beo
08-20-2008, 09:29 AM
Alot has been asked lately on this so here's what I do.
Successful Fur Trapping by Keith Blackwood Paperback ISBN 9781410758477 & FUR-FISH-GAME Magazine These are good for learning.
Before any trapper starts trapping I think all trappers should be familar with what trap sizes should be used for the fur bearers we intend to catch. For example I wouldnt use a #4 long spring to catch muskrats as it is to large of a trap. Below are some of my trap size recomedations for some of the common furbearers. If a furbear is not listed I recommend using a trap recommended for a simular sized furbearer. But that's just how I do it when I trap.
Beaver
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#5 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 8 3/8 inches
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
#330 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 10" x 10"
Mink
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
Muskrat
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
Opossum
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
# 1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
# 2 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
Otter
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
#330 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 10" x 10"
Raccoon
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
# 2 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
Skunk
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
Weasel
# 0 Longspring Approximate Jaw spread 3 1/2 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
Large Predators:
Bobcat (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
Coyote (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
Fox (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
I hope you found this info helpful in your trap selection. By using the proper size traps for the target animal you will produce a better catch with less damage and pain to the animal. There are many traps on the market today but it is your responsibility if your going to trap to use the proper one for the job.
Hope this helps you out.
Beo,
Remember, this is my way of doing it and others on here with more experience may may be able to tell you better, my traps are based off of the rules and regs for Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana which is why they are so varried and I thre in some others made for those animals, check the regs in your area for what is allowed.

Beo
08-20-2008, 10:18 AM
Preparing traps is also very important so here's what I do. Others do not do this but I sell my furs in Friendship Indiana so I take the time to do it this way, PGVOutdoors is a Guide here in Ohio so he and others may be of better use in how they do it.
Step #1 Cleaning
The first thing that needs to be done to all your traps is for them to be cleaned . Whether the traps are new or used they need to be cleaned properly before dyeing and waxing.
Cleaning is accomplished by boiling the traps in water with baking soda. Or for those real nasty traps, a Lye solution can be used. Lye is found in most drain openers such as Draino, Liquid Plumber and many others. Be very careful when using any lye product as it can be harmful to your skin and eyes and should not be breathed in. You can use almost any metal pot for the cleaning task. Ask your parents (if your a minor) if they have any old pots they don't use or look at garage or yard sales. You will need BIG pots, usually something that will hold 5 gallons or more of water. I have been able to find some very nice stainless pots at buisnesses that specialize in used restaurant equipment. Bring your cleaning solution to a boil and place traps slowly in the boiling water. Be careful not to get splashed as the water will burn you. Before cleaning, dyeing and waxing your traps place a smalI finishing nail between the trap jaws to keep the trap partially opened so that the cleaning, dyeing and waxing can get to the jaws of the traps also. I usually treat 6 traps at a time. To do this I wire the chains together with a little 14 gauge wire. Leave enough wire to hang outside the boiling pot for easy trap removal. This is handy for removing the traps when they are done and will come in handy later for dyeing & waxing. Leave the traps in the cleaning solution for 30 to 60 minutes. When done, lift the traps out of the boiling water, and hang outdoors to air dry. I usually hang them from a branch in a tree or from a nail in the trapshed.
The purpose of cleaning the traps is to remove any scents, blood and debris from used traps and the oil they coat the new traps with.
The traps should take on a light coat of rust almost immediately, this is good since the light rust will aid in the adhesion of the dye. Avoid having your traps come in contact with anything that may contaminate them from this point on such as odors.
You just cleaned the traps to remove all the odors so keep them scent free. Always wear rubber gloves when handling your traps after boiling.
Step #2 Dyeing

Now that your traps are clean and free of odors, grease and oil, you are ready to apply a coat of dye to them.
Dyeing accomplishes two very important functions. It prevents the rust from form will help makeing while the traps are set, and it
colors the traps either a deep dark black/ blue color or brown color. This will help make the traps blend in with the soil or bottom cover of the area you are trapping. After cleaning and scrubbing your pot from the cleaning process, add about 4 or 5 gallons of fresh water to the pot along with 1 pound of logwood crystals or powder. I prefer logwood crystals as my dyeing method over speed dips, but the choice is up to you. Bring the water to a boil again and add the crystals or powder, mix well till all the trap dye is disolved. Again be careful not to get splashed by the water as it will burn you.
Also be sure to wear you rubber gloves during this process or you will wear the dye on your hands for weeks. And dont forget to leave that extra pice of wire hanging over the outside of the pot for easy removal. And also leave the nail in betwen the jaws of the trap. I usually check the traps after 45 mins to an hour in the solution to see if they are the color I want. If they are not dark enough for you, place them back in the pot. After the color is achieved, again hang the traps outdoors free of odors to dry completely.

Beo
08-20-2008, 10:20 AM
Step #3 Waxing
For this procedure you should use a different clean pot. Save your other pot for boiling and dyeing, but obtain a seperate pot for the waxing process. I wax traps for two reasons. The first is that the wax will protect and seal the trap while it is being used. The wax seals in any odor that may take place while a trap is oxidizing while set. Secodly, the wax also speeds up the closing of the jaws of the trap resulting in, a faster trap and fewer misses. First you will need to obtain your trap wax. Melt enough wax so that when you dip your traps they will be completely covered, so the whole trap gets protected during the process. Be extremely careful of wax splashing like above as it is hot and can severely burn you. SO BE CAREFUL!!!!
If your wax starts to smoke, it is TOO HOT, remove from heat and lower the temperature before continuing. Wax is explosiveand may burst in to flames if it gets too hot. Waxing should be done only with parental supervision (if your a mnor) or another veteran trapper.You may also want to make sure the traps you intend to wax are totally dry as any water that is on the traps can also cause an explosion if it comes into contact with the hot wax. Again leave the nail between the jaws as you want to protect the inside of the jaws as well as the rest of the trap. After your wax is melted, start dipping the traps in the wax using the wire thatwe attatched to the chains at the beginning of the cleaning process, and again, wear rubber gloves. You only want a thin layer of the wax on your traps so usually a minute or two in the wax is all that is needed. Pull the traps out slowly so that the excess wax has a chance to drip off, then shake the traps to remove more
excess wax. Waxing is best done outdoors for this reason as well as others mentioned above.Now hang the traps outdoors away from odors. I usually hang the traps in my shed till the season starts or if need be you can let them dry on cardboard if you have no spot to hang them from while they dry.
Now let them hang till season opens or pack them in plastic storage bins, and seal with duct tape to keep them from getting contaminated. Remember when you go to remove the traps the next season to start trapping, WEAR YOUR RUBBER GLOVES you do not want to contaminate them after all the hard work you have put in to get them ready.
Remember this is my way and others on here have there way, PGVOutdoors, Lady Trapper, WE, Trax, FVR, and others may have simpler, easier, or better ways, this is how I was taught by my Grandpop.
Hope this helps any who had questions.
Beo,

Beo
08-20-2008, 10:30 AM
Check it out babypops, you went to all the trouble of preparing your traps and then trapping your furbearing animal, and now what. Here are a few things I do and the way I do it.
Proper Pelt Care
REMOVAL FROM TRAPS
Care should be taken when removing animals from traps especially if they are frozen. Simply prying an animal out of a trap may remove portions of fur and damage pelts. If furbearers are completely frozen in traps, it would be wise to take the furbearer still in the trap to your camp or fur shed and remove it after it has thawed.
TRANSPORTING
Furbearers should be transported in clean burlap or nylon bags (feed sacks) to ensure that they remain clean and that blood or dirt from one animal is not transferred to another. Never place wet furbearers directly onto metal racks of ATV's or snowmobiles or the box of a pickup truck in freezing weather. They will become badly frozen on and difficult to remove without doing major damage to the fur.
CLEANING/STORAGE
In general, ideally furbearers should dry before pelting. Furbearers should be brushed lightly before pelting to remove burrs, mats and dirt, which may stain the fur, and cause cuts in the pelting process. If animals are badly soiled, they should be washed lightly with clean water and allowed to dry before pelting commences. If you cannot skin animals shortly after harvesting, or if you choose to rough skin pelts and flesh at a later date, they should be frozen to preserve quality. Place furbearers or pelts in plastic bags and remove as much air as possible. Tie tightly and place in a freezer. Pelts that are to be frozen should be rolled nose to tail, leather in. Thaw slowly to prevent hair slip before pelting or fleshing. After fleshing and drying, pelts should be shipped to market as soon as possible. If you must store pelts for long periods they should be placed in a freezer. For short periods of storage, keep in a dark, cool dry room. Pelts may be wrapped lightly in newsprint, stored in burlap or nylon bags or hung from hooks or rafters. Ship to market in clean bags or cardboard boxes, never in plastic bags.
PELT SIZES
While it is never wise to over-stretch fur, there are times when pelts will be on the borderline between two sizes when they are placed on the board. Pelts shrink slightly in length during drying, so it may be to the trapper's advantage to stretch these borderline pelts just a little more to bring them up to the next largest size. To accommodate this, having the pelt sizes marked on your boards for each species may be helpful.

Should pelts be open skinned or cased?
Beaver: Open skinned.
Mink: Cased and fur in - it is recommended that saddle be left on but remove all grease from under the saddle.
Otter: Cased and fur in.
Marten: Cased and fur out.
Fisher: Cased and fur out.
Bobcat: Cased and fur out.
Muskrat: Cased and fur in - do not over scrape, remove all surface grease but leave saddle on.
Raccoon: Cased and fur in.
Fox: Cased and fur out.
Coyote: Cased and fur out.
Squirrel & Weasel: Cased and fur in.
Skunk: Cased and fur in.
Opossum: Cased and fur in.
Badger: Cased and fur in.

Hope this helps you all.
Beo,

Beo
08-20-2008, 11:00 AM
Animal Tracks, if your gonna trap you should know what the tracks of your prey look like, as outdoors people here we should all know what these look like, Here are a few.
In the tracking chart below you will find many of wildlife species. As trappers and hunters we should be very knowledgeable on what furbearer's we are targeting. And which other critters may be a potential problem in the areas we trap and hunt.
How to use this chart: This chart has been broken into groups by track patterns meaning how the animal steps one foot after the other. These pictures are not actual size so use the measurements provided for each track. Each foot is labled with a "F" meaning that track is a front foot track of the animal shown. Or it's labeled with a "H" meaning that track is a hind foot track of the animal shown.
http://www.rihunts.com/images/hunting/animal.tracks.jpg
[/URL]
[URL="http://imageshack.us"]http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/5889/tpaj1.gif (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=trackspz8.png)

Beo
08-20-2008, 11:15 AM
***NOTE*** All of this and more are in my blog, so if you want more info or how I do things check them out, this is by no means how it is done, but how it is done by me. This is as in depth as I can get as anything else is past my knowledge, others on this site are as knowledgeable or know more than I door, once again some of these members are WE, Trax, FVR, PGVOutdoors, Catfish10101, Trappiing Lady, Robert Rogers, mitch.chesney, medicine wolf, and others who either do this as a sport, hobby, for a living, or because they live Off-the-Grid, so they may have imput I forgot, that is different, or even better. (Anyone I forgot or left out that does trapping I am sorry, I talk to so many people on here and in PMs I forget, so please forgive) AND BE CAREFUL WHEN PREPARING TRAPS AND TRAPPING, HAVE FUN, BE SAFE, DRIVE ON, AND COWBOY UP IF THNGS DON'T GO RIGHT AT FIRST ITS A LEARNING PROCESS AND TAKES TIME.
Hope all this helps you.
Beo,
This is a great site for all your trapping needs and where I get most of my supplies. http://www.rpoutdoors.com/

MedicineWolf
08-20-2008, 02:49 PM
Really good post bro, alot to read but great stuff.
I see your still trapping and seems to me a good teacher
for Trooper and anyone here wanting to learn.

Gray Wolf
08-20-2008, 03:09 PM
Outstanding post Beo!!! Should be made a sticky.

Rick
08-20-2008, 05:02 PM
Good post and sticky'ed. It's missing the track of the rubber Big Foot!:D

trax
08-20-2008, 05:18 PM
Excellent work Beo. Nicely done.

Hey Rick, share a little moderator trade secret with us...what do you do to make the posts "sticky"....

No, on second thought maybe we don't want to know :eek:

Rick
08-20-2008, 05:19 PM
First, you take a pinch of Newt tail. That can be just as tricky as it sounds. Then you.....

Moderators have a drop down box for Thread Tools.

crashdive123
08-20-2008, 05:20 PM
or you could use duct tape.

Beo
08-20-2008, 05:22 PM
Duct tape works on everything. If ya can't fix duct it.
Thanks all, anyone here that is new to trapping feel free to copy and print this, I could careless its not copyrighted,
if it helps you fine, also I would most definately talk to Traggin Gal as she probably knows a lot more than I do, from
her postings on here I would say she is a top notch trapper.

Rick
08-20-2008, 05:23 PM
If it moves and it shouldn't, duct tape it. If it doesn't move and it should, WD40. The only two rules of life you will ever need to know!

skunkkiller
08-25-2008, 05:39 PM
in wisconsin you have to take a class before you can get a licence.

Riverrat
08-25-2008, 05:59 PM
Great post Beo...and the same as skunkkiller said, you have to take a class in New Brunswick, unless you can prove you had a licence before. I used to trap every fall, and am strongley thinking about it this fall, even to the point of doing some scouting.

Riverrat
08-25-2008, 06:03 PM
Also for Canadian trappers, here is a great site to go and ask questions on the differant laws. It is great for anyone to get info on differnant sets.

http://www.trapper.ca/cnta/index.php

flandersander
08-25-2008, 07:29 PM
Also for Canadian trappers, here is a great site to go and ask questions on the differant laws. It is great for anyone to get info on differnant sets.

http://www.trapper.ca/cnta/index.php



Thanks broski. Great site!

Gray Wolf
10-08-2008, 02:22 PM
Here's a link to "The Project Gutenberg EBook of Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making, by William Hamilton Gibson".

Lots of traps, snares and the making of them. Teaches how to gather and make scents for your traps, and much more. A very informative FREE book (240 pages). Release Date: November 18, 2005
Enjoy!

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/camplifeinthewoods.pdf

crashdive123
10-08-2008, 02:53 PM
As usual, very nice link. Thanks.

Le Loup
11-08-2008, 09:22 PM
I do carry small & large game snares, but mostly I make primitive traps on site.

wolf
11-12-2008, 09:24 PM
Helpful post

Nickjames
12-29-2008, 02:54 AM
Hey all, Don't worry I used the "search" function, but can't seem to come upon some tips for snaring rabbits. I have purchased some 20 gauge galvanized steel wire. It appears to be "chromed" and is fairly shiney. Do you think this will have any affect on the rabbits? Me and Flanders have been snaring rabbits, but I would like to try on my own. Just curious as to what the loop size and how high to place it. I have looked on google and they say from 1 inch to 7 inches off the ground, so I don't know which one to go with. I started a new thread because I have some fairly specific questions. Thanks for the help.
Nick

Stairman
12-29-2008, 06:59 AM
a 3 inch loop is fine for rabbits[bottom 1-2 inches off the ground.A 6 inch loop for coons/possoms,2-3 inches off the ground.8 inch loop for coyotes,8 inches to the bottom,8 inch loop for fox,4 inches up to the bottom.

RunsWithDeer
12-29-2008, 08:33 AM
I wouldn't worry about the wire being shiny, it should weather quick enough on its own. Rabbits are most active when it is dark, and won't know it is shiny.
About a 4 inch loop, 2 inches off the ground for rabbits. Any bigger on the loop and you may catch them in the torso, or get an incidental catch of a coon or possum.
I have found the key to snaring is placing on a well used trail. I look in long grass/brush for openings.

red lake
12-29-2008, 02:52 PM
There is a great video on you tube showing how to set it up. i watched that and had success the first time. Could have been luck but the video was pretty informative.

Nickjames
12-29-2008, 02:55 PM
Ok thanks guys. And 20 gauge will be strong enough to hold 'em?

RunsWithDeer
12-29-2008, 03:28 PM
20 ga should work for rabbbits.

Here is the youtube vid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoZ4PMLXR5U

red lake
12-29-2008, 03:45 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oNpj5GGMgrY

Here is another one without such a good sound track

Nickjames
12-29-2008, 07:57 PM
Thank you guys. Those videos were very helpful and informative.

SARKY
12-29-2008, 11:18 PM
For snare wire I have used either .020 stainless safety wire or .030 copper. both were issue items. I haven't been able to find the copper wire but any auto performance shop should carry .020 or .025 stainless safetywire.

Nickjames
12-30-2008, 12:46 AM
SARKY, Thank you for the info that could help me save a couple bucks.

backtobasics
12-30-2008, 01:56 PM
Here is a link to a site with lots of great snaring and traping videos http://www.wildernessoutfittersarchery.com/

Mike00006
12-30-2008, 08:14 PM
Is there any chance that military issue trip wire might be good for snaring game? I have a few rolls lying around the house. I dont know the thickness but it will dig into your hands when you try and snap it.

crashdive123
12-30-2008, 08:16 PM
Is there any chance that military issue trip wire might be good for snaring game? I have a few rolls lying around the house. I dont know the thickness but it will dig into your hands when you try and snap it.

Should work just fine.

flandersander
12-30-2008, 08:40 PM
Is there any chance that military issue trip wire might be good for snaring game? I have a few rolls lying around the house. I dont know the thickness but it will dig into your hands when you try and snap it.

As long as its breaking strength is about 15-20lbs you should be good as far as breaking goes.

Jericho117
12-30-2008, 11:16 PM
Different metals......... I would prefere to snare Rabbits and other game animals (like I do) with natural material, blends in better, don't have to worry about metal reflection. Why carry more weight (or at least storage space) in your kit when you can simply make a snare of sinew or the inner bark of some trees like Willow and Basswood (never used Basswood but make cordage from willow). Hell I have even snared a few with my Indian Hemp snares, and it's all free, and is 3 times stronger than 15-20 pound metal material, yet it is only slightly thicker in diameter. Save room, improvise when your out there. Becuase what happens when you lose those materials or they become expended ( a 100 yard spool will last years if conserved, but the 2,000 trees provide lifetime supplys, not to mention the kills that would provide sinew, rawhide, gut material). Im not trying to prove anything or down anyones methods,im just expressing my opinion. But I would see copper as a weaker snare material, I have used 20 pound steel mesh material when I first started learning "survival" and trapping game with modern materials. My dad would pay $12.00 per 300 yard spool at his work (Navy, Port Operations). Pretty expensive. But I used up all of it when I was little becuase my friends and me wrapped all of it around the trees near Rock City where all the potheads hung out. They were pretty mad becuase it was a tangled mess.

Nickjames
12-31-2008, 12:48 AM
yeah its a good suggestion, but where i am snaring all the trees are dead so i have to use wires. Thanks for the good idea tho :)

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 01:12 AM
Alright guys, so me and Flandersander are having some problems. We have been using all of your help but still, nothing. What happens is we have the snares set up on a well used path, but when we go look the next day, the tracks stop right infront of the snare then they go back and find another way. We have walls set up beside them to funnel them thruogh the snare but thats not working.:( So, if you guys have any ideas of helpful tips on how to resovle this problem or what is causing them to stop and turn around it would be greatly appreaciated.
Nick

flandersander
01-01-2009, 04:35 AM
Nick man, there are some live poplar trees there we could use for cordage, but I'm not expierenced with that sort of thing. And i'm pretty sure our problem is human scent. We need to wear gloves when snaring, or at least thats what i think it is. Why else would they stop right? Unless they thought a dark strand was out of place from the millions of dark branches in there. I find that unlikely.

Riverrat
01-01-2009, 11:42 AM
Your snare could be a bit to small and this is turning them. When I used to snare rabbits, we used a small gold colored wire call rabbit wire, it was quite strong and very thin. We never used gloves to set this, and it was usually kept in a drawer in the house, so scent did not seem to be a problem. We made the snare about 5 inches round, 1-3 inches off the ground, and had great luck. When you are using guide sticks, do not build a wall, make it look as natural as possible, just use a few sticks.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 03:03 PM
Okay, thanks riverrat. Cause i was using a wall that had like no spaces from one side to the other exept through the snare. i'll try that
Nick

tsitenha
01-01-2009, 06:40 PM
Make sure that the path does not seem to be blocked at their eye level beyond the snare set. So they think they can get through.
If they see a closed/blocked off section or too much new bush, they stop. Just like you if you came into your house and seen furniture changed around wouldn't you stop and carefully step around to investigate?
And as said light persuasion to funnel them in.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 08:03 PM
Alright thanks tsitenha, so if there was some snow biuld up below the snare that was abnormal that would detur them?

flandersander
01-01-2009, 08:42 PM
Well I think a small pile of snow on their trail is normal, but a wall of vertical sticks isn't the way to go. I think the trick is to find a place where they are naturally funneled in.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 08:59 PM
so, what if i made a pile of sticks on each side to make it look like a fallen pile of trees?

Riverrat
01-01-2009, 09:06 PM
Make it look natural, not like a wall....

wild kid
01-01-2009, 09:37 PM
Dude for rabbits I would say 1 and a half in. off the ground.
P.S Dont use fishingline stick with the wire.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 09:38 PM
yeah, i mean like in this place where i am trapping there are many fallen trees. So, i lay down tree branches on top of eachother to form like a barrier but looks sorta natural would this detur them?
Nick

flandersander
01-01-2009, 09:53 PM
yeah, i mean like in this place where i am trapping there are many fallen trees. So, i lay down tree branches on top of eachother to form like a barrier but looks sorta natural would this detur them?
Nick

What? There are no fallen trees. There are small standing dead willows, but thats about it.

wild kid
01-01-2009, 10:00 PM
Look for a game trail or a point were more than one converge instead of making a barryer+smoke your snear to kill your sent or the animals will not use that trail for 1-2 weeks.

RangerXanatos
01-01-2009, 10:02 PM
Good info wild kid. How about heading over to the introductions section and telling us a bit about yourself.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 10:14 PM
Wild kid, thats a good idea. But what if they smell the scent of fire and it detures them because there is no smoke where i am.

wild kid
01-01-2009, 10:22 PM
Good info wild kid. How about heading over to the introductions section and telling us a bit about yourself.

I am a 13 year old hunter fisher trapper who lives in the south. and the smoke smell does not scare them.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 10:29 PM
okay,thanks (he ment go to the introduction section of the forum);)
nick

wild kid
01-01-2009, 10:36 PM
o well now yall know and im new to the forms
:confused:

flandersander
01-01-2009, 10:41 PM
Hey wildkid, head on over to the introduction section and introduce yourself. not EVERY member will read through every post in this thread. Let EVERYBODY know a little about you please. thanks.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 10:41 PM
Hey man, its okay i am new to the forum aswell. (dont feel alone lol i made the same mistake) :) Oh, sorry all for the missunderstanding about smoking my snares i just didnt understand the concept of it, but my friend flanders helped me out.
Nick

wild kid
01-01-2009, 10:45 PM
Im not sure how were is it at?

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 10:49 PM
Wild kid, he is a link to the introduction part of the forum. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

wild kid
01-01-2009, 11:03 PM
thanks alot

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 11:09 PM
No problem, good to hear sum stuff about yeah

wild kid
01-01-2009, 11:14 PM
Yhea glade to know more

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 11:21 PM
okay everyone, so far you have been the most helpful people i have met. Now i have some more questions. So, if there is a very well used trail that is in a wide open space and doesnt lead to a closed area, can i set a snare some how or is that trail just useless? Another, what is a better way to set a drag snare a. break off a branch anquore the snare to it and then ram it into a bunch of surrounding trees above, or b. break off a branch anquore snare to it and lay it on the gound infront of the trees under the snow coved it up? If you could awnser these it would be greatly appreciated!!
Nick

wild kid
01-01-2009, 11:25 PM
Does It Lead Away From One Or To A Water/food Sorce More Than Likely Yes You Can Set The Trap.

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 11:32 PM
Im just saying, if there is a trail going across a wide open space with no food or water, if it just leads into a wide open space of a bush then is there anyway to set one that wouldnt spook them?

wild kid
01-01-2009, 11:36 PM
well not to my knowledge sorry

Nickjames
01-01-2009, 11:41 PM
anybody have tips for the drag setup?

SARKY
01-02-2009, 12:11 AM
I don't really like the drag setup because the critter takes off with your snare and you have to track it down. But here goes... get a branch about an inch to 1.5 inches in diameter and about 12 to 18 inches long. You set up your snare the same as you would for a staked snare or a trigger snare, only your snare wire is attached to the branch (drag) when the critter gets snared, it drags the wire and drag stick until the drag stick gets wedged in some brush then you have to find where the critter dragged your stick off to. Note: you attach the end of the snare wire to the middle of your drag stick.

Nickjames
01-02-2009, 01:41 AM
okay, thanks SARKY

Stairman
01-02-2009, 01:55 AM
I cant speak for all rabbits,but the ones down here are not spooked by human scent.I do however keep the site as natural as possible.

RunsWithDeer
01-02-2009, 07:33 AM
Before anyone experiments with different snaring/trapping techniques, check the game laws for your state or province. Here in Michigan we can not snare for anything other than coyotes, and the rules on use (location, wire gage, loop size, loop stop, swivel requirements, tags on equipment) are very strict. Also we can not use drags for anything.
I would love to experiment with different techniques, to practice for a true survival situation, but I can't.

Stairman
01-02-2009, 08:47 AM
Good disclaimer.They are all illegal here in Florida as well.Seems they dont care what kind of animal they might catch.Cats,chiwawas[sp] ect.Im pretty sure only havahart traps are legal.Squirrel poles are a definate no-no cause they work sooo good.

flandersander
01-03-2009, 02:45 PM
Here in saskatchewan, most game is snareable with a snaring liscense. A deer stop is needed on cable snares, but not wire ones. I preffer the "cam lock" over the rest because it doesn't relax. As cruel as that sounds, dispatching isn't a problem. Never caught a yote yet, or a fox or anything snaring, but i am trying it this year. Any tips on snaring larger animals than rabbits would be apreciated.

flandersander
01-03-2009, 06:57 PM
Nobody snares coyotes or foxes?

crashdive123
01-03-2009, 07:00 PM
Stopped trying to snare foxes when I got married.

flandersander
01-03-2009, 11:23 PM
Its those chicks that dig their claws into you and just suck the life from you. just kidding.

Survival Guy 10
07-07-2009, 09:18 PM
great post alot of good info

Rick
07-08-2009, 08:47 AM
Hey Survival Guy, why not trap you way over to our Introductions section and tell us a bit about yourself?

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

your_comforting_company
11-25-2009, 11:43 PM
I'm sure you guys have seen this but I thought it was a good reference for triggers. well illustrated. http://www.scribd.com/doc/3478144/Six-Primitive-Traps-for-Catching-Food-in-the-Woods

The third one is set backward from the way I do it, but you'll get the idea. many of these triggers can be adapted to other trap styles also. I really like the versatility of the second trigger, I used it over the summer on a fishing rig.

take a sapling and stick it waaay down in the sand, add a boulder with a nice square corner in the water just below where the spring is tight. a #2 hook and 1/4 or 1/2 oz weight on heavy fishing line tied to the bottom of the trigger (rather than the top as illustrated). It works on tripline method, but basically the fish takes the live bait (we used a small fish we caught) and instantly trips the "tripwire" attached to the trigger...Sproing! this one had a 6 foot yank and caught supper which we cooked on a rock.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Primitive%20Skills/0808091932a.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Primitive%20Skills/0808092222.jpg

COWBOYSURVIVAL
11-26-2009, 12:18 AM
Good Advice....nice eating size channel catfish!

David.Crockett
06-03-2010, 06:24 PM
WANTED: OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS WHO REALLY KNOW HOW TO SURVIVE
Do you have the skills to take on Mother Nature in all her fury and survive? Can you start a fire without a match, find water in the wilderness, hunt for food and brave the elements? A new television series is calling all wilderness junkies in the greater Los Angeles area to demonstrate your survival skills. Maybe you are a wilderness guide, hunting/fishing/trek hand, or a backcountry camper with extraordinary skills. Maybe you've found yourself stranded, snowed-in or castaway - and survived. If you've got the will, the ingenuity and the wilderness sense to face the elements, now is the chance to prove it to the world.

Email us with a short explanation for what makes you an extreme survivor, or any stories that exemplify your outdoor survival skills, as well as a PICTURE, and preferably a video of you in action.

your_comforting_company
06-03-2010, 09:01 PM
Looks like spam to me...

crashdive123
06-03-2010, 09:12 PM
He's been banned. His posts were left up as a reminder to the next one that stops by - lets them know they are venturing into dangerous territory. His email addy was removed, so now it's just entertainment.

Wise Old Owl
10-31-2010, 09:37 PM
It happens, we set a trap and come back the next day and the trap is on its side and the bait is gone, with no animal caught. I remembered that one could attach the trap to a larger board to keep it from tipping. Turns out Raccoons and other animals see the bait from the side and swat the trap over - keeping the trigger from popping. Attaching a board with bail wire allows you to use a pair of pliers to seperate the board witout releasing the animal. On the other hand the board keeps the vehical clean while transporting. This prevents the animal swatting the box over and gaining entry... I even add a few inches at the front and back to allow two people to pick up a loaded trap.

Does anyone else use this idea?

Wise Old Owl
11-21-2010, 03:41 PM
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg275/MarkSwarbrick/DSCF3523.jpg

Ted
11-21-2010, 06:09 PM
Thats a good idea!
I never had that sort of problem though. I made my box trap,and it's pretty heavy!
If killing neighborhood critters isn't an issue, nothing beats a 220 conibear, cubby set! IMO

Austin
08-07-2011, 10:36 AM
Setting traps to me is better than hunting

wholsomback
12-30-2012, 12:28 AM
Very nice post and very informative.And on those coons putting the trigger side of the trap against something also helps keepthe little bears from tripping the live traps.

buckslayer
12-30-2012, 11:58 AM
Just got my first set of traps last year, and four more traps this year. Still haven't used them yet as I'm trying to read as much as I can through this year before getting out there, but starting next year it's game on. It's funny, I've been hunting for over 25 years and in the woods a lot longer than that, but just now getting into trapping. I wonder what took so long...

wildlearner
10-29-2014, 10:46 PM
I just use a rattrap. I have killed my first squirrel with it, and this year ill get my second.

ottawafm
04-05-2015, 11:39 PM
:):):):):)

gcckoka
09-11-2016, 01:45 PM
Great thread , which will help me along with help of my father to set traps when first snow comes to catch a fox and make a mountain man style hat which I always dreamed about :)

Gerald45
08-01-2018, 06:32 AM
Setting traps to me is better than hunting

As for me, it is different. But maybe I will try to use traps too.

kyratshooter
08-01-2018, 12:29 PM
You guys keep waiting a year or two between posts and all the critters will get away from you!