Best survival knife

[treefrog]

Hey folks, I've just come by a little sum of money which means I will be able to buy a nice survival knife. I'll tell you what I am looking for and hopefully a few of you can advise me.

I am into hiking in the great outdoors here in Ireland. I want a knife that will be very good for survival use and emergencies, but also for any everyday tasks, like maybe food prep when wild camping. So it needs to be strong, durable, effective for a wide range of tasks, rust resistant, and not to aggressive-looking.

I've looked online at lots of knives, read lots of reviews, and finally concluded that maybe something from Fallkniven might be good. But I am open to ideas and suggestions about the best knife for me.

Thanks and I look forward to reading your replies.

[RangerXanatos]

While I don't own a falkniven, I would love to get my jands on an F1. They're popular for a reason. And you have your choice of some reputable steels.

I figure you're set on something that costs more than a mora, but I can't recommend them enough.

I don't have as many knives in stainless/semi-stainless but queen cutlery makes some in d2 that might suit your needs.

[welderguy]

Get a Mora. or one of them neat hollow handled survival knives I hear they are great!!!

[Rick]

Do you know how to properly sharpen a knife? If you want it to be rust resistant then you are looking at one of the stainless steels, which will be much harder to sharpen.

[treefrog]

Do you know how to properly sharpen a knife? If you want it to be rust resistant then you are looking at one of the stainless steels, which will be much harder to sharpen.

I have a Mora Frost knife. It's ok but it rusts very easily. I read that the F1 is rust resistant steel and holds its edge well. I have not sharpened a knife before.

[Rick]

Practice sharpening the Mora then coat it with food grade mineral oil. I think you may refer to it as USP Mineral Oil there. It will help keep the knife from rusting and if you cut up food there will be no petroleum to worry about since the mineral oil is food grade. If your knife has a leather sheath, many of the Moras did, then store the knife out of the sheath. The harder the metal the harder it is to sharpen. However, once you've honed (sorry, couldn't resist) your skills on the Mora then your experience will transfer over to harder metals. Just my opinion.

[Sarge47]

So how much in US dollars, are you looking to spend? Do you prefer small, medium, or large? There are some good ones out there that won't break you in all sizes....:smartass:

[treefrog]

Small/medium fixed blade.
£130 max = $222 approx. But remember things are usually more expensive over here.

[LowKey]

Can you carry a fixed blade over there even if it looks non-aggressive?
I haven't been to Ireland in decades but sheesh, the UK hardly lets a citizen carry a folding pen knife these days.

Follow Rick's advice regarding keeping your steel rust-free. I'm not a fan of stainless knives simply because they take too long to sharpen. I like sharpening knives and all but sometimes setting that edge.....

The only fixed blade I have right now of any quality is my dad's old Marine Corps Kabar. I don't think the current Kabars are anywhere near the quality if this thing. Everything else I have folds due to state laws. Except for my bait knife, which is a cheap Old Hickory with lots of uh...character. Sorry not much help.

[treefrog]

In the UK, you need a good reason to carry a fixed blade knife. Camping and hiking is a good reason, in my opinion. Hunting would be an even better reason. Thus the F1 or S1 Fallkniven could be carried when hiking, which is the activity I am engaged in. But to avoid attention, I would not have it visible in public places with lots or even a few people. Out in the wilds should be fine, where there are few people. A small non-locking Swiss army knife can be carried anywhere in the UK without needing to give a reason. The law in Ireland is similar.

[crashdive123]

You don't need to break the bank for a good knife to use as you describe above. Not sure what is available to you, but brands like Gerber and Buck will serve you just fine. My advice is to stay away from gimmicky or flashy add-ons as IMO they are there to detract you from the knife and probably cover up it's short comings.

[Rick]

Generally, when someone asks an opinion on a given item they have already made up their mind that's what they want. They are just looking for someone to agree with them. That's just human nature. We all do it. Don't let that prevent you from making a smart decision. In the end, however, it's your money and if that's what you really truly want then buy it. If it turns out you are not happy with it you can probably sell it...for less than you paid of course. Then you can purchase one of the knives listed above. :blush: Hey, that's how we learn sometimes.

[ninjasurvivor]

It's been proven that "survival knives" don't make for good cooking knives. The reason is because the durable batoning knives are too thick to be effective for fine food prep tasks. I think the Mora bushcraft black is as close as you'll come to survival and food prep, as well as being rust proof and non-aggressive looking. But its only like $50 so you could get Becker BK7 and a Mora for under $150 and be all set for everything. Most people have, carry, and use more than one knife.

[Sarge47]

Experience has shown that when somebody asks the same question that you asked on here, a hundred different people will give a hundred different answers. If it were me I'd ignore all the well-meaning advice on WHICH knife to buy and concentrate on the information regarding the knife you've already picked out. Nobody else could possibly know what fits you...only you can know that. You're the guy who has to be satisfied. I've never owned a Falkniven knife so I can't advise you on it, but I've only heard great things on them from other forum members, and never anything bad. Also, when somebody on here that lives in the USA quotes prices, that's what they cost here in the U.S., not in Ireland where you live obviously. Like Rick said, just pick out the one that seems right for you and go for it!...:cool2:

[ninjasurvivor]

To that end, all knives were not created equal, but most knives can do the same thing. It's mainly a style and design preference, not one of functionality.

I do think weight, blade thickness, and length are important factors to consider. Big clonking knives suck to carry around. My go to bushcraft knife is small and inexpensive. It has never let me down and works like a charm. I ordered it off Amazon on a whim with little fanfare. It doesn't always have to be a major life decision. Just pick something and roll with it.

[Great Dane]

The F1 is a great all-round knife. Top quality. It's obviously not a chefs knife, but for your cooking needs when camping, it'll do just fine.

[finallyME]

You're in the UK, go for the Ray Mears woodlore or bushcraft knife. Of course, if you can't keep a Mora sharp and rust free......what's the point in getting a better knife. Pick a Mora that has a stainless blade. If you can't keep it sharp and rust free, then you need to work on that first. If, however, you are just looking for approval in buying the F1, I hereby bestow permission to get it. Have fun!

[crashdive123]

Another thing to consider - if you have a scandi grind knife now, you will sharpen it differently (or at least should) from other types of grinds. The scandi grind knife generally do not have a secondary bevel whereas most others do.

[hunter63]

You know I really can't give a recommendation for any kind of "survival" knife....too broad of definition.
That and the fact that I find it hard to believe a $300 knife is exponentially better than a $30 dollar knife, although I do know that a $30 knife is better than a $3 dollar knife.

The exception is maybe a custom made knife by some one I know, and admire their work....and yeah I do use them.

I too am a fan of Mora's, olf fashion Buck and Western knives...... as well as Green river blades, for general camp work, and use most for hunting and camping...not surviving per se.
These knives generally run for $10 buck to $100 bucks....and do everything pretty well except maybe chopping and batoning.

I did get a deal on a Becker BK2, lovingly used w/ a couple of sheaths for like $60 bucks....and is possibility the most survivalily looking knife I own.
Going to substitute it for the small hawk in my hunting fanny pack rig and see how I like it....actually weigh about the same.

So if you got one in mind....and have the bucks...go for it and see how you like it......No one said you can have only one knife.

[ninjasurvivor]

I think the Robson x-46 would be the ultimate "survival" knife, because it is full tang, hollow handle, good steel, looks cool, and gives you the option of length, style of knife point, and serrations. With those features and versatility, I don't see how you could do much better. But you'll pay for it, at $425-$575 a knife.

[hunter63]

For $575, means a $20 buck Mora, Handi Rifle in some cool caliber $250 and 3 extra barrels @$104 bucks each.

I just can't see spending that kind of money on a knife.

[ninjasurvivor]

For $575, means a $20 buck Mora, Handi Rifle in some cool caliber $250 and 3 extra barrels @$104 bucks each.

I just can't see spending that kind of money on a knife.
I wouldn't mind if I felt the quality was there and I REALLY wanted it. However, I'd probably never get it simply because you could dent the tip or put a ding in the blade and then you are stuck with a deformed $500 knife. I've spent $200 on a knife before. I can live with that, but not much more.

[Winter]

There are many great makers in Ireland and the UK.

[RangerXanatos]

There is also Enzo. I hear lots of good revies on their fixed blades. I have their folding Birk and have been pleased with it.

But you do need to learn to sharpen your knife. I fibd Scandinavian grinds the easiest and convexed the hardest. But you may find it different.

[Sarge47]

I wouldn't mind if I felt the quality was there and I REALLY wanted it. However, I'd probably never get it simply because you could dent the tip or put a ding in the blade and then you are stuck with a deformed $500 knife. I've spent $200 on a knife before. I can live with that, but not much more.

1st, for 500 bucks you shouldn't be able to hurt the blade, checkout "Junkyard Knives."

2nd, spending over a hundred dollars for a knife is money wasted. When I 1st came onto this forum I had a heated discussion with a new member that bragged he'd paid out $1500 for a hand made folder! The Mora 2000 is only around $30 and one of our members, an Alaskan guide, quartered a moose with one! Cody Lundin only carries a Mora. You can buy one cheap off of his web site. I once paid $122 for a knife, but that was because I got a Buck Hoodlum, designed by the late Ron Hood, off eBay for a hundred dollars less than what they normally cost. Best low cost "survival knife" I found was the Schrade one I bought for a bit over $40.

http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405726059&sr=8-1&keywords=schrade+extreme+survival+knife

3rd, the latest "buzzword" is "Survival." They're slapping that moniker on everything. The newest "catch-phrase" is "Survival Knife." The 1st knife I can find that was made for survival was the Ontario Air Crew Survival Knife...you can still buy one for around 47 bucks. Accept no substitutes, this one is the real deal.

http://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knives-Force-Survival-Sheath/dp/B001C443VA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405726206&sr=8-1&keywords=ontario+air+force+survival+knife

4th, why call them "SURVIVAL knives?" Why not an "OUTDOORS knife?" Use it for hunting, fishing, camping, hiking, and survival if things go pear-shaped. Makes sense to me. Except for the Ontario knife, I think the others are a by-product from the Rambo movies and the reality shows. Military pilots need a good knife for surviving if their plane goes down, so that means that they have to be pretty rugged...and they don't cost a lot of money! Two big plusses!...:cool2:

[crashdive123]

2nd, spending over a hundred dollars for a knife is money wasted.While it may be more than you are willing to spend on a knife, I would not call it money wasted. There are limits to what everybody will spend on a knife, usually influenced by their means and desire.

[Sarge47]

While it may be more than you are willing to spend on a knife, I would not call it money wasted. There are limits to what everybody will spend on a knife, usually influenced by their means and desire.

Yeah, to this I have to plead guilty. I didn't really need the Buck Hoodlum, but the price was too good to pass up. :blush: Truth be told, when I camped out at my brother's, even though I had that knife with me, it stayed in my tent. I carried a Gerber on my belt that cost a lot less. If I was going to lose a knife it wasn't going to be the most expensive one in my collection. Didn't worry about "batoning," as we had a chain saw and a nice splitting axe at our disposal.....:1:

[DomC]

The most I've spent on a knife was $130. It is not money wasted. I'm a utilitarian not a collector, I use what I buy no matter the cost.

DomC

[Grizz123]

The native peoples from around the world have used flint and other stone material for countless years and all it cost them was time to find and knap the stone.

There is not one knife made today that will do everything as well as the specific knife designed to handle a specific task, period. Different shapes, blade material, grind, finish, handle material, handle shape, handle size, blade thickness and tempering all play a roll in what knife works best for YOU and YOUR needs. The only way to learn which knife works best for YOUR needs is to get out and use them.

Cost of knives - This can be a touchy subject so read with caution
A inexpensive knife can be well made and an expensive knife can be poorly made - Now that is out of the way I will get started.

Consider an inexpensive knife a ford escort and an expensive one equal to a Mercedes, both will get you from point "A" to point "B", right? But one will get you there faster, one will use less fuel, one will be an incredibly comfortable ride, one has a better warranty, one has a better service record, one will look better than the other but in the end they will both get you from point "A" to point "B", which one will meets YOUR needs??

After years of use and countless different knives, "I" find that in most situations, the more expensive knives meet MY needs best. They fit my hands better, the temper, shape, grind and looks are custom to fit my needs so I am willing to pay more. With use bordering on abuse, the more expensive knives outshine the less expensive ones.

There are countless inexpensive knives (moras, etc...) that will last you a life time if used correctly and taken care of, start there and work your way up to whatever meets YOUR needs. And dont get turned off if you find that carrying more than one will meet your needs better than trying to find one knife to do everything, there is nothing wrong with doing that.

[mplsatty]

What can I say but that I love knives. AND I really love knives that can take all the outdoors use & abuse & still cut up a nice supper. That said, as many knives as there are on the market touted for outdoors use, and as many as there are for food prep, there are really far too few that straddle the two purposes well. Most people get the bigger, thicker outdoors knife & use that to perform food prep where possible, realizing they're "roughing it" so potatoes are going to be chunked, not sliced. The reason for this is simple: a lot of food prep knives can't handle chopping wood. That said, you're looking for a rather rare specimen of a knife, & I applaud you for that!

For about $120 US (not sure if the knife is more expensive for you or just the shipping), you can find the TOPS Pasayten Lite Traveler -- the steel stock is thinner than most TOPS knives, but thicker than most German-style chef's knives. This knife had a grey coated high carbon (not stainless) blade, not "tactical black," so it will be less intimidating when seen by others, but it does have a clip point to the blade, something that tends to look a little menacing. Because of the coating, only the sharpened edge will be subject to rust, & I totally agree with the mineral oil suggestion! The knife was designed by Steven Dick, a former army ranger, former forestry worker, and current farmer, hunter, & food afficionado. He loves to be outdoors & to cook -- if anyone's likely to have designed a blade exactly to the specifications you're looking for, it's him. Oh, & he was the editor for the recently-defunct magazine Tactical Knives -- he tended to review both custom tactical folders as well as cooking knives (primarily Asian cooking knives, but there were knives from other countries as well). I own this knife & have to say that it feels really good in the hand, & there is sufficient knuckle clearance for use with a cutting board. Unfortunately I haven't yet put it through its paces for other camp chores, but TOPS warranties their knives for life (taking them up on that warranty would unfortunately mean putting the knife back through customs & international shipping, again).

Okay, now that I just went all fanboy there, I have to agree with other posters that it's really best to have a few blades. The American legend Nessmuk (George Washington Sears) advised taking a fixed blade (like an Ontario/Old Hickory butcher knife -- thin enough for skinning, long enough for versatility), a folder (for everything else), & a double-bit axe (one bit thicker, for splitting, the other for chopping). To me, that sounds like an ultra-light minimalist's approach, but like I said, I love knives!

Regardless, good luck, & enjoy the search!

[MrFixIt]

I certainly won't say it's the "best", but for the money I bought a Condor Tavian.
The handle wasn't quite large enough (paracord wrap fixed that) and the leather sheath was very nice.
I also carry my small knife (that I made myself) for lighter duty functions.

[alaskabushman]

I stand by my Cold Steel SRK. Durable sheath with reversible belt loop (great since I'm lefty) and a comfortable slip resistant handle. It might be out of reach for the budget buyer but it was worth it to me.

[ninjasurvivor]

I stand by my Cold Steel SRK. Durable sheath with reversible belt loop (great since I'm lefty) and a comfortable slip resistant handle. It might be out of reach for the budget buyer but it was worth it to me.

Those are nice. A good standard survival knife. Cold Steel rarely puts out a bad blade.

[alaskabushman]

Those are nice. A good standard survival knife. Cold Steel rarely puts out a bad blade.

I love mine, I've been thinking about upgrading to the San Mai version since its stainless. I'm torn though because I really like the Carbon V blade that mine has. Maybe I'll just stick with what I have.

[Winter]

San Mai is not stainless.

[alaskabushman]

San Mai is not stainless.

I stand corrected. If I had really thought about it I would have realized my Black Sable is San Mai, and is certainly not stainless. Its simply a hard high carbon center sandwiched between two pieces of tough lower carbon. No, certainly not stainless. Still awesome steel.

[Winter]

It's an amazing steel. We live in the same part of the world so let me give you some great info that I just learned this spring.

Use paraffin wax on your knives instead of oil. It's food grade, stays put very well and, if you carry a stick of it in your pack, it is useful for firemaking and some first aide stuff.

[alaskabushman]

hmmm, good idea. I've been using food grade mineral oil on the fixed blades (seems to gum up the folders). I shall try it.

[ninjasurvivor]

There's a reason the Buck hoodlum was so cheap. It's a piece of crap. Don't know why anyone would need such a long narrow blade in the first place, because its a bad design. Too short and light to chop, too long for fine tasks. Then they add a notch to the middle of the already thin blade, in what we can only assume was an attempt to deliberately weaken their knives so that they snap when batoned.

As far as knife care goes. Get a "rust eraser" for tending to your blades. They are the same size as a wet stone and can fit into the sheath. You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade, as the eraser will remove most of the tarnish as it accumulates.

[Rick]

You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade

Well, that's different. Remind me never to eat anything you prepare in the woods.

[alaskabushman]

As far as knife care goes. Get a "rust eraser" for tending to your blades. They are the same size as a wet stone and can fit into the sheath. You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade, as the eraser will remove most of the tarnish as it accumulates.

I do own a rust eraser, and it does kind-of work. It's basically a small sanding block. I do not like the fine scratches it puts on my blades. Scratches obtained in the heat of battle add character but the rust eraser just makes it look abused. Besides, I don't LET my knives rust BECAUSE I oil them, it's preventative maintenance. If I gut a deer the blade certainly gets washed because next time I might need to slice some cheese. I don't know about you but I prefer my sandwiches deer gut free if I can help it.

[ninjasurvivor]

I do own a rust eraser, and it does kind-of work. It's basically a small sanding block. I do not like the fine scratches it puts on my blades. Scratches obtained in the heat of battle add character but the rust eraser just makes it look abused. Besides, I don't LET my knives rust BECAUSE I oil them, it's preventative maintenance. If I gut a deer the blade certainly gets washed because next time I might need to slice some cheese. I don't know about you but I prefer my sandwiches deer gut free if I can help it.
I try to keep a separate knife for food prep, even if its just a pocket knife. That's why its good to have several knives on hand if possible. It's also good to clean your knife or wipe it off before re-sheathing it. But sometimes that residue will stick to it and needs some work to get it off once you get home.

[hunter63]

Didn't they sell those rust erasers on TV about 20 years ago........I got a couple from a friend at Rendezvous...don't like them all that much so are in the box with like 20 other super duper knife sharpeners, steels, carbides stones.

Do kinda work.....but if you NEED it, the blade is kinda messed up anyway.

[ninjasurvivor]

Didn't they sell those rust erasers on TV about 20 years ago........I got a couple from a friend at Rendezvous...don't like them all that much so are in the box with like 20 other super duper knife sharpeners, steels, carbides stones.

Do kinda work.....but if you NEED it, the blade is kinda messed up anyway.
Probably. They've been around a while. The thing is, when rust sets in it is hard to get off with oil or washing. So you need an abrasive of some kind. Yes, it will leave a tarnish on the blade, but it at least gets the rust off and smooths it out again. You'd need to sand and polish the blade if you want it restored to a clean shine again. There's many levels to blade maintenance depending on how bad the condition gets. There's washing, oiling, scrubbing, sanding, buffing, polishing, shining, etc.

[crashdive123]

There's a reason the Buck hoodlum was so cheap. It's a piece of crap. Don't know why anyone would need such a long narrow blade in the first place, because its a bad design. Too short and light to chop, too long for fine tasks. Then they add a notch to the middle of the already thin blade, in what we can only assume was an attempt to deliberately weaken their knives so that they snap when batoned.

As far as knife care goes. Get a "rust eraser" for tending to your blades. They are the same size as a wet stone and can fit into the sheath. You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade, as the eraser will remove most of the tarnish as it accumulates.

To each his own I guess, but the entire civilize world of knife owners, collectors and makers would probably disagree with you on this. Not sure where you get your idea that
You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade but I suspect you are alone in that way of thinking.

[DomC]

As far as knife care goes. Get a "rust eraser" for tending to your blades. They are the same size as a wet stone and can fit into the sheath. You don't need to lubricate or wash your blade, as the eraser will remove most of the tarnish as it accumulates.
I suppose one doesn't need to wash their messkit utensils either since a knife is part of it even if it is a pocket knife. If you cleaned your knife and oiled it you wouln't need a rust eraser in the first place. I prefer high carbon steel blades so cleaning and oiling with food grade mineral oil is protocol...never had the need of a rust eraser. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" as the old sayin' goes...

Dom

[Sarge47]

There's a reason the Buck hoodlum was so cheap. It's a piece of crap. Don't know why anyone would need such a long narrow blade in the first place, because its a bad design. Too short and light to chop, too long for fine tasks. Then they add a notch to the middle of the already thin blade, in what we can only assume was an attempt to deliberately weaken their knives so that they snap when batoned.

FYI, I called the Buck Knife company before buying mine and talked to a customer service guy. I specifically asked him if Buck had ever had a complaint about a snapped blade due to batoning, and if their were any reports of breakage due to the notch on the blade. His answer was a resounding "NO!" He owns one and wouldn't trade it or sell it for anything! He went on to say that he batons with it all the time and that one day, while batoning on his back porch with his next door neighbor present he started to baton a piece of wood that had a large knot in it. His neighbor told him that if he could baton through that knot with his Hoodlum then he would buy one. Today the neighbor is a proud owner of a Buck Hoodlum! I ordered mine right away. You really should do more research on something before criticizing it. Both knife and sheath were designed by the late Ron Hood,(surivial.com.) A survival teacher/expert that stands head and shoulders above the rest. The knife is a brilliant piece of work, yes it was designed to be light while combining strength and durability. By your post I'm assuming that you never owned one. And if you know somebody who had one break then get on them for not sending it back! The same customer service guy told me that if any other Buck knife breaks due to batoning that they will replace it the 1st time out of courtesy, but will replace the Hoodlum if it EVER breaks no matter how many times...they've yet to have one sent back! That tells me something....:detective:

[ninjasurvivor]

There's videos of people's buck hoodlums snapping at the notch. Doesn't take many instances of that before a knife loses its reputation. Much like the Bear Grylls knife with the faulty pommel. Maybe a bad heat treat on that batch, just an anomaly, who knows. But when it snaps at the notch, which is something that is really not even needed, it makes you question the engineering and quality of the entire knife. I mean, a wire cutter, or bail wire holder....It's not worth reducing the knifes strength for that. The entire knife is now only as strong as the narrowest part where the notch is. And its long and thin, adding to the leverage that could break it, ESPECIALLY when batoning. But whatever, the proof is in the video evidence. That speaks for itself.

As far as the rust eraser, I don't use it very much. Natural oils may work very well, but I've never used them mainly because I don't want any gunk to accumulate on my knives or in my sheaths. The eraser will work well if the blade has started to rust, which can happen from time to time. It's more of restorative measure rather than a preventative one.

[Winter]

Have you used this rust eraser?

[ninjasurvivor]

Have you used this rust eraser?

Yea, I used it on a katana and my carbon steel mora.

[Winter]

Any chance you have pictures of the result?

[Rick]

Uh oh. Another katana. Can a bear hunt be far behind?

[randyt]

Any one ever use flitz to keep their blade in shape?

[Sarge47]

There's videos of people's buck hoodlums snapping at the notch. Doesn't take many instances of that before a knife loses its reputation. Much like the Bear Grylls knife with the faulty pommel. Maybe a bad heat treat on that batch, just an anomaly, who knows. But when it snaps at the notch, which is something that is really not even needed, it makes you question the engineering and quality of the entire knife. I mean, a wire cutter, or bail wire holder....It's not worth reducing the knifes strength for that. The entire knife is now only as strong as the narrowest part where the notch is. And its long and thin, adding to the leverage that could break it, ESPECIALLY when batoning. But whatever, the proof is in the video evidence. That speaks for itself. We have a rule on the forum that if you offer up something like this you have to provide evidence. Videos please, or it never happened!...:cool2:

[ninjasurvivor]

We have a rule on the forum that if you offer up something like this you have to provide evidence. Videos please, or it never happened!...:cool2:
uk8rxlSP_5U
l43Lh36vHAk
Very noteworthy about these is that both snapped at the notch. The next question is, without the notch, would they have snapped at all?

Keep in mind that the thickest and strongest part of the blade is along the spine, which is why notching that out makes no sense. Schrade is guilty of doing this as well with their axes. They drilled a hole in the handle for a fero rod and designed style lines which further reduced the thickness of the handle. And of course the handle snapped at that exact weak point. It's a design flaw plain and simple.

[Sarge47]

uk8rxlSP_5U
l43Lh36vHAk
Very noteworthy about these is that both snapped at the notch. The next question is, without the notch, would they have snapped at all?

Keep in mind that the thickest and strongest part of the blade is along the spine, which is why notching that out makes no sense. Schrade is guilty of doing this as well with their axes. They drilled a hole in the handle for a fero rod and designed style lines which further reduced the thickness of the handle. And of course the handle snapped at that exact weak point. It's a design flaw plain and simple.

Did they send them back to Buck for a replacement? We recently had a member suffer a broken Ontario RAT from batoning and he sent it in and got a replacement. Personally I look upon batoning as "knife abuse" and I think that anyone doing it and breaking their knife in the process is getting what they deserve...they should have bought a Crashblade! However batoning also a science and if done wrong can snap ANY blade. A member posted a something about that awhile back. Myself, I use a splitting axe....:cowboy:

[ninjasurvivor]

Did they send them back to Buck for a replacement? We recently had a member suffer a broken Ontario RAT from batoning and he sent it in and got a replacement. Personally I look upon batoning as "knife abuse" and I think that anyone doing it and breaking their knife in the process is getting what they deserve...they should have bought a Crashblade! However batoning also a science and if done wrong can snap ANY blade. A member posted a something about that awhile back. Myself, I use a splitting axe....:cowboy:I'm not sure if Buck will send you a new one or not. Ironically, the manual that comes with the Hoodlum shows you how to baton with it. So they are actually condoning batoning with it.

I don't baton much, usually only for a special project where I need a certain cut of wood. I have like one or two quarter inch thick short blades that I can use for batoning. Those will likely never snap because they are thick, lack a notch, and are short in length. It's all about the right tool for the job.

[Grizz123]

I had a knife company tell me that rust on a kitchen knife was good because it adds iron to your blood...

Any truth to that?

[ninjasurvivor]

I had a knife company tell me that rust on a kitchen knife was good because it adds iron to your blood...

Any truth to that?Yes, there is truth to it. But it can also be harmful depending on the metal and how bad its rusted. Minor surface rust on a standard kitchen knife shouldn't hurt you, but it probably won't be good for you either. I doubt much iron is coming off of it into your food, unless its like big chunks of rust, lol.

[RangerXanatos]

I had a knife company tell me that rust on a kitchen knife was good because it adds iron to your blood...

Any truth to that?

Most kitchen knives are stainless so they shouldn't rust. While ingesting rust from a knife may not be bad nor good for you, I would be upset that a knife company representative was giving me health advice instead of trying to solve a problem.

[alaskabushman]

Just use cast iron to cook with, you'll have plenty if iron in your blood. :D

[Rick]

If you prepare food with a rusty knife do you have to mix a cocktail of C.L.R. after you eat?

[Sarge47]

I'm not sure if Buck will send you a new one or not. Ironically, the manual that comes with the Hoodlum shows you how to baton with it. So they are actually condoning batoning with it.

I don't baton much, usually only for a special project where I need a certain cut of wood. I have like one or two quarter inch thick short blades that I can use for batoning. Those will likely never snap because they are thick, lack a notch, and are short in length. It's all about the right tool for the job.

Yeah they will! I called them and asked, they said YES! If the ones on the YouTube vids didn't do it then they need to!....:cowboy:

[finallyME]

I baton all the time with my Cold Steel SRK. I prefer it to splitting with a hatchet. If it is a big log, use an ax. But there comes a time when you need to split more precisely. That is when it is safer with a knife.

Anyways, this thread is entertaining. I guess that is what happens when someone asks the infamous "best knife" question.

[treefrog]

So guys I got the Mora Companion carbon steel version. £10! Can't beat that. I will use this knife to learn with and then if I want, later, I could buy the Fallkniven F1, but I am quite satisfied with the Mora for now.

[Rick]

Personally, I think you made a good choice. The Companion is a good knife and you should get a lot of use out of it.

[Sarge47]

Personally, I think you made a good choice. The Companion is a good knife and you should get a lot of use out of it.

+1! Remember that for years Cody Lundin has used nothing but a Mora knife for all of his Survival classes in Arizona. They're one of the best made knives out there for the money!...:1:

[Lamewolf]

+1! Remember that for years Cody Lundin has used nothing but a Mora knife for all of his Survival classes in Arizona. They're one of the best made knives out there for the money!...:1:

For the money they are fairly tough. A couple of years ago I bought a Mora Clipper for 12 bucks just to see what it would take to destroy it and wish I had photographed the process. I battoned with it, beat on the plastic handle to see if I could break it, pried with the blade. Finally I resorted to driving the blade into a log about halfway and bending it one way until it did snap but it took much more force than one would normally use a knife for. After that I laid the handle on concrete and beat it with a hammer and finaly had to use a chisel to break it free from the tang of the blade. Because of my torture test I now own several Moras !

[kyratshooter]

There's videos of people's buck hoodlums snapping at the notch. Doesn't take many instances of that before a knife loses its reputation. Much like the Bear Grylls knife with the faulty pommel. Maybe a bad heat treat on that batch, just an anomaly, who knows. But when it snaps at the notch, which is something that is really not even needed, it makes you question the engineering and quality of the entire knife. I mean, a wire cutter, or bail wire holder....It's not worth reducing the knifes strength for that. The entire knife is now only as strong as the narrowest part where the notch is. And its long and thin, adding to the leverage that could break it, ESPECIALLY when batoning. But whatever, the proof is in the video evidence. That speaks for itself.

As far as the rust eraser, I don't use it very much. Natural oils may work very well, but I've never used them mainly because I don't want any gunk to accumulate on my knives or in my sheaths. The eraser will work well if the blade has started to rust, which can happen from time to time. It's more of restorative measure rather than a preventative one.

Just how hard to you have to try in order to screw up a Buck Hoodlum?

Buck has videos too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoxiHS0gHn0

Besides, if it snaps you still have a perfectly good blunt tipped 12" blade and a 4" section to use for a spear head!

[Sarge47]

Just how hard to you have to try in order to screw up a Buck Hoodlum?

Buck has videos too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoxiHS0gHn0

Besides, if it snaps you still have a perfectly good blunt tipped 12" blade and a 4" section to use for a spear head!

Thanks Kyrat! Check this video out as well!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv2sRHEvqCY

:sleep:

[Tokwan]

I sometimes just pick up one f the knives that I have when I go camping. Does not seem to matter much whether its my Mora Bushcraft, Mora Lite My Fire or my Tramontina knife...I used them the same way,..found not much different...all worked.