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MCBushbaby
03-24-2008, 11:20 AM
Due to the recent interest in alcohol stoves in the Wax Stove thread, I think a devoted thread is warranted. These are easy DIY stove designs that are lightweight, cheap, and easy. There are many versions, each with certain 'features', but the basic setup and designs are shown below along with pros and cons. All alcohol stoves share one features: all require the fuel to vaporize and ignite for a sufficient burn (burning liquid alcohol doesn't burn very long or very hot).

Open Flame Alcohol Stove
http://zenstoves.net/Basics/OpenFlame.jpg
Basically a dish of some kind, filled with alcohol, and lit on fire. Too simple, too open, not enough heat, horrible fuel efficiency, don't build. Period. Sorry.

Open Top Jet Alcohol Stove
http://zenstoves.net/TopBurner/TopBurner.jpg
These stoves are probably the most common because they're the easiest to make and take very little skill in assembly. Simply fill with fuel, light the inner chamber, and wait for the fuel to vaporize. The steps for assembly can be found here (http://zenstoves.net/ConstructionStep2-FuelPort.htm#Step2aOpenJetStove). The cons of this design are threefold: one, it takes multitudes longer to prime the alcohol to vaporization, you are burning your interior stove fuel for priming, and the fuel burns freely so there is less fuel efficiency. If tipped, the stove could spill lit fuel.

Pressurized Jet Alcohol Stove
http://zenstoves.net/Construction/polished.jpg
These stoves follow a similar construction pattern as the open top, but there is no cut-out section. Rather, a small hole is drilled into the bottom of one pop can as a fuel port. The port is then covered with an object to prevent a flame from entering the body (if a flame hit the vaporized fuel within the body, it could explode). The priming takes much less time (<30 sec) and the jets are higher pressure, giving better fuel economy because the alcohol is vaporizing better. Instructions can be found here (http://zenstoves.net/ConstructionStep2-FuelPort.htm#Step2bPressurizedJetStove).
Cons are that you need more dexterity in assembly as well as noting the potential for an alcohol bomb if you don't replace the fuel port cover (I use a simple metal bolt). You also will need to carry around a small dish (or lid off a soup can) for priming the stove.

Comparisons
These are the three main designs - each having many subdesigns. The open-top jet has given way to many lightweight alternatives and "simmer rings." Because of it's low-pressure output and open inner camber, covering some (or all) of the jets won't snuff the stove and will produce a simmering effect on your cooking. The pressurized jet are the favorites of backpackers because of it's fuel efficiency (compared to the open top) and it won't spill fuel or cause a fire hazard if tipped. They also burn much hotter for longer periods because of the torch-like jets they produce. My titanium pot handle turned red-hot when a jet was under it, reflected by my aluminum foil windscreen!

Fuel
Pop can stoves burn Isopropyl, Methanol, Ethanol, Everclear, and Denatured Alcohol. The cleaner the alcohol, the bluer, hotter, and less sooty the flame. Isopropyl, in concentrations exceeding 80%, burn just as well as Methanol HEET (95% Methanol). Denatured Alcohol burns hottest, if I remember correctly, and Everclear is "drinkable" so it's taxed by liquor laws making it more expensive than the other options. The better the stove is at vaporizing the fuel and forcing it out the jets, the easier the fuel will mix with air and increase heat output and length of burn.

Potential Issues
*Overpriming and constriction of heat within a reflective windscreen may overheat the alcohol of pressurized stoves, causing a rapid expansion and eventual seam burst. However this has not happened to me and I've damn near taken a blowtorch to it.
*Pressurized stoves may explode if the fuel cap is left off and a flame enters the chamber. However I've accidentally left the cap off three times now, with a nice big flame flying out the port, but because the vaporized alcohol is using the fuel hole as another jet, the flame could not ignite the inside. Still, the potential is there.
*Open stop stoves may spill heat if tipped, because of the open inner chamber. This is especially an issue in tents and on dry ground.
*Alcohol stoves, in general, fail at simmering food. This is an issue when you make store-bought meals on the trail that require "simmer 8-10 minutes". However, simmering can be accomplished by placing your pot in a Reflectix pot cozy (basically bubble wrap sandwiched between two layers of aluminum foil... "97% reflected heat"-so they claim).

Modifications
*Open top jet stove: Create a simmer lid out of a tuna can lid or lid similar in diameter to your stove. Cut a 1/4 pie section out and attach some form of handle. The simmer ring will snuff out the jets but leave the inner chamber burning, reducing heat and allowing you to simmer your food somewhat.
*pressurized jet stove: Wrap a fiberglass wick 5-8 times around the base of your stove. This will eliminate the need for a separate priming pan but will function the same way. Pour a little fuel on the wick and light.

Test Runs
Closed Pressurized Side Jet (stove acts as pot stand) with double sheet aluminum foil windscreen
See my tests here (http://ourwilderness.freezoka.com/Alcohol_Stove_Tests.xls)

More to come as tests continue

bulrush
03-24-2008, 02:51 PM
I never understood why people use light tinfoil as a wind screen, as the wind will simply blow it away.

MCBushbaby
03-24-2008, 02:56 PM
I never understood why people use light tinfoil as a wind screen, as the wind will simply blow it away.

I reinforced mine by doubling the foil and then wrapping the edges in some bailing wire. Doesn't add much weight but increases stability 10x. The foil itself is shiny and highly heat reflective. I couldn't even boil 900ml of water on 60ml of fuel with a large coup can wind screen/pot support. Now I think the soup can absorbed too much heat and didn't reflect.

I think the 'foil' they use is either heavy-duty foil (I think it's called craft foil) or pie tin sheets.

crashdive123
03-24-2008, 04:59 PM
Good info Mitch - thanx.

Rick
03-24-2008, 05:04 PM
You can use roof flashing. It's light and easy to work with but it's stiff enough that the wind won't bother it.

crashdive123
03-24-2008, 05:06 PM
I do use the roof flashing. Punch some holes in the lower edge with a paper punch for ventilation.

Rick
03-24-2008, 05:29 PM
The only problem I've ever had with roof flashing is getting the edges dull enough they won't cut you. It's more work filing the stuff than anything but it's pretty darn versatile.

MCBushbaby
03-24-2008, 06:41 PM
Six tests have been completed on my version of the closed top pressurized side-burning alcohol stove. See the original post for Excel spreadsheet link. The first test (under Sample), I attribute the 9sec/mL fuel boil efficiency to the fact the fuel was brought in from my jeep (so it was pretty darn cold). Overnight the fuel became room temperature so the efficiency increased to 10 and then mid 11's and the total burn efficiency up to 12 :)

This was just a test run for a standard to compare future modifications and timings to. I deduce 900ml of water should boil with 35mL fuel and in under 6min 45sec. If I can improve the design of the stove or the reflector to a point where I can save even half a minute boiling time, I'll call it a success.

chiggersngrits
03-24-2008, 07:50 PM
nice info rick. i don,t believe you can drink denatured alcohol. it is ethanol that has other chemicals (methonal,ether) added to it to make it unfit for human consumption. please do not drink denatured alcohol. pure grain alcohol or everclear is ethanol that is fit (barely) for human consumption. DO NOT DRINK DENATURED ALCOHOL>

Rick
03-24-2008, 08:27 PM
Chiggers - Mitch posted the info but I'll be happy to take credit it for it. I'm just that way. :rolleyes:

As for the Denatured Alcohol, was that just a general warning? I didn't see anyone that suggested drinking it.

BraggSurvivor
03-24-2008, 08:48 PM
Just wondering,

Other than vegetable oils and petroleum products, is there anything else you could use as a fuel source in them little stoves?

BraggSurvivor
03-24-2008, 08:50 PM
nice info rick. i don,t believe you can drink denatured alcohol. it is ethanol that has other chemicals (methonal,ether) added to it to make it unfit for human consumption. please do not drink denatured alcohol. pure grain alcohol or everclear is ethanol that is fit (barely) for human consumption. DO NOT DRINK DENATURED ALCOHOL>

NOw....heee....tellssss..........me...... ..... .... ... .. .

MCBushbaby
03-24-2008, 09:12 PM
Chiggers - Mitch posted the info but I'll be happy to take credit it for it. I'm just that way. :rolleyes:

As for the Denatured Alcohol, was that just a general warning? I didn't see anyone that suggested drinking it.

The way I had it worded initially sounded like the denatured was the "drinkable" fuel. I reworded it following his post.



Just wondering,

Other than vegetable oils and petroleum products, is there anything else you could use as a fuel source in them little stoves?

You can't use oil or petroleum in alcohol stoves unless you want a non-jet version in which case it's just going to be an open can... not really a stove. The idea of the pop can stoves is to vaporize the alcohol, send it flying through the jets, and have the jets ignite. The jets will then maintain enough heat to continue vaporizing the rest of the fuel.

Rick
03-24-2008, 09:17 PM
I must have read Chiggers post after you made the correction and it went right over my head the first time. Sorry, Chigger.

Bragg - They make multi fuel stoves not a whole lot bigger than the soda can stove but they are pressurized (generally) with a pump like the coleman stoves or lanterns had. Even with them, you can't use vegetable oils. You can use things like unleaded gas or white gas in them.

Ridge Wolf
03-24-2008, 09:17 PM
I thought there were two types of alcohol.. methyl and ethyl (wood)... I think it is the methyl alcohol that is the drinkable kind.. After reading this and considering what I originally just wanted to do was melt snow.. with three wicked candle cans.. also, with the dangers involved with the alcohol stoves.. the candle seems to fit my purpose better as it is safer. During the late summer months they put burning bans in the forests around here.. it wouldn't do any good to have an accident with one of those and start a forest fire. True, a candle can do the same.. but a candle doesn't have the risk of exploding.

I have a pressurized backpack stove with fuel canisters for that quick cup of coffee (and/or cooking) while I build a regular fire. I think I'll stick with that for the sake of other survivalists in the area.

Rick
03-24-2008, 09:19 PM
Ridge - You do know those pressurized stoves have been know to go pop! as well. They are really pretty when they go off at night (in someone else's camp of course). It's like blue lightening.

But instead of thunder following the lightening it's usually a string of obscenities.

Ridge Wolf
03-24-2008, 09:22 PM
Ridge - You do know those pressurized stoves have been know to go pop! as well. They are really pretty when they go off at night (in someone else's camp of course). It's like blue lightening.

But instead of thunder following the lightening it's usually a string of obscenities.

Yeah.. but at least I might be able to blame the manufacturer... :D

chiggersngrits
03-24-2008, 10:00 PM
[QUOTE=Rick;36730]Chiggers - Mitch posted the info but I'll be happy to take credit it for it. I'm just that way. :rolleyes:

my bad rick.

Rick
03-25-2008, 08:29 AM
No. no. Shower me with praise. I thrive on it. Sort of like mushrooms in.......never mind.