Roof Top Carriers

[natertot]

So this past summer, I got rid of my beloved car. I could pack anything in that car. Looking back, I really don't know how I got alot of that stuff in there! I got a 2009 Dodge Caliber in its' place. Great car and I really like it. It does lack a bit in the cargo area. Not too bad for day to day stuff, but as I have a family of four I do need a bit more room for trips. (The jamboree is the next one in line!) I got to thinking about a roof top carrier and I have found one that I will more than likely jump on. The issue is the caliber does not have a rack on them. I know they have "special" straps for cars without the rack, but they seem a bit over priced.

I was thinking of running regular ratchet straps through the car (in the door jambs) and sinching them down. Do you think this will work? Has anyone tried something else that has worked well for them? Thanks for the help!:sweatdrop:

[crashdive123]

While it may work, I would go with a rack that is designed for your car. Running straps as you stated can cause water problems in the rain. Do you have side curtain air bags? If so, it will interfere with them.

[wtrfwlr]

Agreed. The straps my tear or deform the door jamb seals and that is not a good thing. I would look into installing some roof rails. Or there are some low profile track rails out there.

[crashdive123]

I used to have a Thunderbird Turbo Coup. There were not "gutters" for my windsurfing roof rack. There are plenty of manufacturers of gutterless mounts.

[kyratshooter]

The Caliber does have side curtain air bags.

I have one and I will be putting a rack of some kind on it as a permenant mounting.

Most of the gutterless racks use a strap system of some kind.

I put rails on my CRV from a chevy Blazer. Got the whole system from a pull it yourself salvage yard for $25 and it has worked well for 5 years. I did have to modify the width of the cross rails and I sealed the attachment points within an inch of their lives to insure there was never going to be a leak. I will do the same on the Caliber.

Natertot, if you need to borrow a roof carrier I have a soft shell car top bag I can let you borrow for the WSF camp journey. It is a heavy waterproof camo colored outfit and uses straps. I will be pulling my trailer behind the Cherokee and should not need it.

[natertot]

Thanks guys. I didn't even consider the air bags!

Thanks for the offer to borrow, Kyrat. I would like to buy one to keep on hand for future family events. I am interested in rails put on from other vehicles. How did you actually attach them?

[Rick]

The roof of a car is not designed to carry much weight. I think the racks on my previous van were rated at 300lbs. That's not a lot of weight. I'd go with something designed for the vehicle or if it has a trailer hitch you might also consider a trailer hitch cargo box. You'll be somewhat limited there as well with the tongue weight load for the vehicle. Don't want you pullin' wheelies.

[natertot]

I wouldn't be putting much weight up there. I would use it to store light weight items such as my tent bag, clothes, sleeping bags, blankets, pillows, and the like. I really don't plan on ever placing more than 100lbs total up there. I have thought about the hitch idea. The only thing I don't like about that is that the caliber's rear door opens like that of an SUV or station wagon. If I head stuff on the hitch more than a foot tall, then I couldn't open the door. I might have to consider it still though.

[crashdive123]

Just make sure you balance your load.

http://www.seniorark.com/Humor/Redneck%20Things/Redneck%20Images/redneck%20carrier.gif

[rebel]

What about buying or renting a utility trailer?

[kyratshooter]

While most of the roof racks are only rated for 200-300 pounds they will hold more in a pinch.

My full size reenactment camp requires 7/2x4 poles, 10/2x2x8 poles, 15/2x2x5 poles and I have transported them all on the rack of my Cherokee. Put the camp kitchen, cooler and propane tank on the slide in platform and the soft gear inside the cabin. But that is way more than I like to carry on vehice.

Just because it will do it does not mean it is the best plan.

I really prefer to pull the trailer.

The problem with buying a $200 utility trailer is you lose your excuse to justify a pickup truck!

http://www.harborfreight.com/870-lb-capacity-40-inch-x-49-inch-heavy-duty-utility-trailer-with-8-inch-wheels-and-tires-42708.html

That trailer is almost cheaper than the hitch you would have to install to pull it! A class 2 bolt on hitch will run $120. The Draw Tight is a good unit and it is a DIY bolt on.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Dodge/Caliber/2008/24769.html?vehicleid=20087456

I have not checked Factory installed roof facks but I'll bet the trailer/hitch initial outlay would be about the same as the rack and installation, plus the cargo bag for protection. You would have a very versitle "bug out trailer" and general work your butt off hauler. You would be amazed how many things your wife will think of that you need to haul from point A to point B!

[Old Professor]

My SIL and I have built three utility trailers for 300/400 dollars each . We went to a salvage yard that wrecks campers and motor homes. For under 100 dollars, they would knock the body off the frame and sell us the frame, axel and wheels. This lets you customize your trailer build. This is a good way to build a BOT.
Even though I drive a pickup, I would never want to be without a utility trailer. Mine hauls my ATV and many other things. I have even installed a boat winch on the trailer tongue to enable me to pull heavy items up the rear ramp.

[Rick]

That's not a problem. Some are made so they extend to accommodate the doors.

http://www.letsgoaero.com/upload/TT_UBI_RV_Cargo_Box_Telescpd_Forlano1.jpg (http://www.letsgoaero.com/upload/TT_UBI_RV_Cargo_Box_Telescpd_Forlano1.jpg)

http://www.letsgoaero.com/ProductDetail.asp?Pid=17

[natertot]

The hitch may not be too bad an idea if I can find one at a junk yard.

Kyrat, you know of any good junk yards that a receiver might be found?

[Rick]

You'll want one that fits your car so query the junk yards for your make and model then ask if it has a hitch.

[kyratshooter]

Yep, spring the $120 and get the unit made specifically for the Caliber. Hitches on Calibers are not common so you might have a hard time finding a used one. If you have to remove the hitch yourself you might wind up wishing you had just bought a new one. Crawling under a car on blocks in a junk yard has never been one of my favorite passtimes. All over the top I am up for but undernieth is another matter. I once watched a dozen or so rattlesnakes fall out from under a VW bug I had just contemplated entering and that placed a lifetime of junkyard caution in my little soul.

It is a 4 bolt installation. The drawtite website has an installation video.

It really is one of those "even a caveman can do it" installations.

The taillight wiring might require an electrical engineering degree, but the hitch is a breeze.

We have a tradition to uphold!

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.weareca.org/images/period05/b-dust-bowl/oakies-car.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.weareca.org/index.php/en/era/WWI-1940s/okies_4.html&h=575&w=700&sz=74&tbnid=PVk1McxL7JUptM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=110&prev=/search%3Fq%3Ddust%2Bbowl%2Bmigrants%26tbm%3Disch%2 6tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=dust+bowl+migrants&usg=__7y_VX0TNfC4Zw7ZuyhhuQheXk2A=&hl=en&sa=X&ei=4JhfUPT7JITo8QSY-IHIDg&ved=0CC4Q9QEwBQ

[Rick]

Lord. Lord. And we think we have it tough.

[natertot]

Thanks guys! I did some browsing and the lowest price I found was about 140 before shipping. I looked on eBay and found a used one with all the hardware for 99 and included shipping.

Four bolts sounds easier than modifying roof racks! I'm not worried about wire harness as I will start with one of those carriers that go on the hitch. I'll do the wiring when I get a trailer one day.