PDA

View Full Version : How do I build a log cabin?



artichowl
01-25-2012, 06:32 PM
I know the general idea of how to build one. I want to know any tips or tricks you can tell me. Things to avoid doing.

hunter63
01-25-2012, 06:51 PM
Have you done any research on log cabins yet?

1) Get your self a location and see if there is any codes allowing one to be built.
2) Now get your self a lot of logs....or trees, but will have to process the trees.
3) Lay out how big (plan)
4) Deside what you are gonna put it on.

When that part is done stop back and we will descuss how the next part goes.

Rick
01-25-2012, 06:57 PM
Research it the same as if you were going to build a stick house.There are plenty of web sites that offer information on building as well as companies and plans. As Hunter said, local zoning and construction codes might be a good place to start.

gryffynklm
01-25-2012, 07:28 PM
The International log Builders Association is a good source of information including books and a thing they call a forum that discusses the subject.



http://www.logassociation.org/

BENESSE
01-25-2012, 08:09 PM
I had this thread bookmarked...if only AS (one of our members) hadn't pulled the photos it would have been perfect.
But the writeup is easy to follow and might give you an idea.

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?11218-Simple-Homestead-Construction-Methods

BENESSE
01-25-2012, 08:12 PM
Here's another thread that might be useful:

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?14487-Building-pi%E8ce-en-pi%E8ce&p=266624#post266624

crashdive123
01-25-2012, 08:34 PM
There are about a bazillion youtube videos on building log cabins, many of which are very detailed.

randyt
01-25-2012, 08:46 PM
tips and tricks. I like to keep the bottom log up off the ground at least 18 inches if possible. If not possible use rot resistant wood like cedar for the first course or two. A generous overhang is crucial to keep the water away from the logs. The end grain on the logs should be sealed and kept sealed. Cracks should be down so water will not puddle and trap in the crack. If using a saddle notch the saddle should be on the upper log as not to collect and trap water. Long iron pins or pipe should be drilled in along side the doors and window and in the center of a wall longer than 12 feet. Allowances should be taken for settling. There are some notches that handle shrinkage better than others.

here's a few photos of a recent build. I built this one from green logs. Some of the logs were even frozen. I started to put a skirt around the bottom. I put 4 inches of foam on the roof and roofing tin


The start of it with a jib crane I made to help position the logs. Especially helpful as the walls go up.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/000_0494.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_2935.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_2941.jpg

inside as I was working on the floor.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_8010.jpg

roughed in and settling
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_0126.jpg


door and lime mortar chinking after settling.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/000_0007.jpg

inside showing the loft.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/000_0010.jpg

decided I needed a addition.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_0592.jpg

randyt
01-25-2012, 08:57 PM
here's the tool I used less the chainsaw. from left canthook, scribe, log dog, axe, and a big hammer. I could have gotten by using the axe instead of the hammer but felt it was wiser to be climbing around on the walls with the hammer rather than the axe. Green logs can be as slippery as a greased pig. For marking I use a pencil called "ink in a pencil" The log will need to be sprayed with water in order for this pencil to mark but it's a good mark to follow. Sometimes I had to use windshield washer fluid because the water would freeze.

one thing didn't show was a water level. It's basically a long piece of vinyl tubing filed with water or wiper fluid depending on weather. This is very handy for leveling things up. maybe a 30 to 40 piece that way it could be used corner to corner. I mostly eyeballed the walls but as I came closer to the top I started to check for level and uniformity and made minor corrections.


http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_0662.jpg

Rick
01-25-2012, 10:44 PM
Did you cut the handle off the cant? I've used plenty setting the cant on poles but I've never seen one that short.

If you have a helper you might consider a 2 man carry. I think they are properly termed timber carrier but we called it a 2 man carry.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/119033_lg.jpg

randyt
01-25-2012, 10:53 PM
I have a couple timber carriers but I worked alone so wasn't beneficial to me. Years ago I cut a piece off the canthook because I needed a piece of hardwood to form a lead joint during my journeymans plumbers test. I needed it at the last minute but the shorter handle worked well while climbing on the walls. It was my dads canthook, he used it to help roll logs from the skidway to the carriage. Usually he used a hydraulic log roller but with small logs it was simpler to canthook them.

RandyRhoads
01-26-2012, 12:13 AM
Randyt - Did you cut the logs yourself? About how many trees did it take if you did? What was the final cost of this build?

randyt
01-26-2012, 12:21 AM
I cut all the logs myself. Dragged them out with a yamaha rhino and a old homemade tractor, mostly the rhino though. I'm not sure how many logs, probably 80 or so. Before the tin and foam roof I had 2000 dollars in it. It's mostly rough sawn lumber where lumber was needed, a railroad rail for a center beam. The floor came from a trade from a local mill. Lot of sweat equity and scrounged materials.

RandyRhoads
01-26-2012, 12:38 AM
That's awesome. That's like my dream home but a little smaller. I think someday instead of paying to have one built i'll save the money for more property, and build it my self.

gryffynklm
01-26-2012, 07:59 AM
Randyt, Very nice build. Some thing I have always wanted to do. What materials did you use for the chinking? Did you let the logs season before chinking so shrinkage minimized issues with log shrinkage?

randyt
01-26-2012, 08:18 AM
I built it with green logs, I've built a few green log cabins. After the roof was put on I let it dry and settle while I worked on the floor system. It sat and settled for a summer. I started the cabin in the fall and had the roof on by early summer. Some logs shrink less than others, these logs are balsam. Chinking is a lime mortar mix held in place with strips of expanded metal. there is fiberglass insulation stuffed in the cracks and then chinking on the inside. There is synthetic chinking available such as perma chink, log jam and others but the cost was too much for my pocketbook.

gryffynklm
01-26-2012, 11:47 AM
Good, Although Green is heavier, it is easier to cut. I know that in timber framing many folks like to mill or hew green and season for 8 to 12 weeks before cutting the joinery. This minimizes shrinkage and gives better control actually causing the remaining shrinkage to tighten the joints without splitting or drawing away. Closing in too soon and heating the space causes the wood to dry rapidly causing checking, warping and twisting I suppose this would also be true in log building. Your building schedule is the same plan I was going to use.

The log buildings here 1750 to 1780 use a lime mortar mix for the chinking with some sort of fiber mixed in over wedged in waddle or sticks and sheep's wool for insulation. The remodel of a friends place revealed large sections of intact chinking with most of the deterioration around the windows and door frames. It looked like water infiltration. That part of the house was 1820 to about 1840. The shoes found under the floor were determined by Williamsburg to around that time frame. Hiding shoes was a tradition that was thought to welcome good to the household.


LOL, here is a link to the web page for the architect that designed my project. Ya, That would be me.
http://www.kfhume.freeserve.co.uk/pictures/threedvispictures/largepictures/printshop.jpg

hunter63
01-26-2012, 12:35 PM
I know the general idea of how to build one. I want to know any tips or tricks you can tell me. Things to avoid doing.

This is about the vaguest question I have ever seen as far as a big project goes.......Man, give us a starting point?

Randy and Karl, y'all have really put out some good information, good enough I think this should be a sticky, maybe?....or at least keep it in a file guys so as to not have to type out everything?

As it seems that stuff like this gets repeated over and over.

randyt
01-26-2012, 08:53 PM
I like the idea of a sticky, it seems that I've posted photos of a few cabins a few different times. I don't mind but it seems a sticky would be simpler.

other than a few pole barns made from poles direct from the forest, the following storage shed is the closest to a post and beam I've made. Log infill.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_3193.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/100_3094.jpg

crashdive123
01-26-2012, 10:06 PM
Consider the thread stuck.

gryffynklm
01-26-2012, 10:17 PM
Nice shed. I noticed that the bark was removed in the roofed photo. Did you have to remove it or did it start to fall away as the logs dried out? I guess you built with green logs again. Did you flat the tops and bottom of the logs or just set them on the round? Are you going to chink or leave the small gap for air circulation? Again very well done.

randyt
01-26-2012, 10:23 PM
I had a tornado come through and knock some trees down. I built the shed with those logs, after the walls were up I powered washed the bark off. I don't plan on chinking. It's a storage shed to keep things dry.

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 12:40 PM
Building russian hut in forest.

76417642764376447645

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 12:41 PM
76467647764876497650

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 12:41 PM
765176527653

randyt
05-12-2012, 01:04 PM
Volnomuvolya, Nice photos, I find log structures very interesting. There is some posts on piterhunt forum of a dugout cabiin built in the forest. all very interesting.

hunter63
05-12-2012, 01:23 PM
Volnomuvolya, very nice, you leave the gable ends open?

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 01:44 PM
Yes, this is traditional trapers hut. The gable used as a repository.
76547655
Russian winter is very cold. This is roof stores many warm.

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 01:52 PM
But can build on other...This is traditional hut of aborigines North Ural, nation "Mansi" finno-ugorian nation. They are descendants of your Indians! :excl:
76567657

hunter63
05-12-2012, 02:53 PM
But can build on other...This is traditional hut of aborigines North Ural, nation "Mansi" finno-ugorian nation. They are descendants of your Indians! :excl:
76567657

Thought is was the other way around......LOL, but anyway thanks for posting.

volnomuvolya
05-12-2012, 03:21 PM
Sorry, I bad understand english ))

Rick
05-12-2012, 07:09 PM
I think your English is much better than my Russian. You are doing fine. Do you use a moss or lichen to fill the space between logs?

kyratshooter
05-12-2012, 07:39 PM
Sorry, I bad understand english ))

We get the idea.

The pictures are universal.

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 03:44 AM
Yes, we use the moss for the longitudinal grooves. Close up the gap. I think our technology is very similar but on the Alaska and Canada is cold too ))
765876597660

Rick
05-13-2012, 07:57 AM
What do you use to cover the roof of the room inside the gable? Doesn't water blow in when it rains?

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 01:27 PM
like everyone else. polyethylene or roofing felt and warms moss.

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 01:57 PM
76627663766476657666
here are examples of huts

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 02:04 PM
76677668766976707671
This is "Labaz" (russian name). It taiga hunters and natives store supplies. legs covered with sheet metal because mouses run to in Labaz. or on the legs are made the cuts, that delays mice

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 02:12 PM
767276737674
But some are being built at a height of about 3 meters, so that he couldn't bear to climb! And taken into account the depth of snow cover.

hunter63
05-13-2012, 03:30 PM
Great pic's.
So as I understand it, the room in the hut has a ceiling? Then the loft part is left open?

JPGreco
05-13-2012, 03:55 PM
Hunter, one of his earlier pictures shows just that. Picture #3 in post 24 you can see the roof that is under the gable. In a lot of the other pictures you can see that it is all used for storage. Pretty amazing stuff and awesome pictures.

volnomuvolya
05-13-2012, 04:29 PM
the main roof is horizontal - so the heat is better preserved, because the warm air goes up.
76787679768076817682

Aℓкℓιηєѕ
09-03-2012, 05:36 PM
Wow these pictures of the cabins are amazing! How long did it take to build this one?

http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/2327/xe04fb68e.jpg

randyt
09-05-2012, 05:33 PM
here's some photos of chinking a log wall.


here's the log wall prepped for chinking. The cracks are stuffed with fiberglass and then strips of plasterers mesh is nailed in place with roofing nails.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/140.jpg



here's the mortar ready to be mixed together dry. The formula is two parts sifted sand, one part portland cement and 1/2 part lime. I use four coffee cans sand, two coffee cans portland cement and one can lime. I mix it all together dry and then add water to make a sticky paste. This makes about the perfect batch, any more and it starts to set before I'm finished mudding.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/143.jpg


here is a photo of a board and trowel that I use. The board has a handle on the bottom. The trowel is a six inch trowel that I cut down to a 1 1/2 inch wide.To use I hold the board up against the wall and trowel the mud into the screen. Extra mud generally fall back onto the board
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/144.jpg



Here's the wall with finished chinking. I'll let it dry and then smooth off any drips and whatnot with my fingers. A little more cleanup can be done with a damp cloth.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/145.jpg


IMPORTANT ADDITION
I had to correct the formula. In the first formula I wrote three parts sand, I meant to write two parts sand.

crashdive123
09-05-2012, 07:28 PM
Nice job RT - easy to understand explanation coupled with detailed pictures - nice.

randyt
09-05-2012, 08:05 PM
Thanks for the comments Crash.

ncguy
09-17-2012, 09:38 PM
Would Virginia pine make a good cabin log?

randyt
09-18-2012, 07:04 AM
I built a cabin from southern yellow pine 25 plus years ago. A few years ago I checked it out and it was holding up good. It is built on piers and has a generous roof overhang. I've seen cabins built from just about every tree.

ncguy
09-18-2012, 08:08 AM
Good to know, I have been rolling around the idea of a small one room cabin (kinda the size of post 43) built at our pond.

dolfan
01-30-2013, 09:16 PM
Is it hard to get permits?

randyt
01-30-2013, 09:28 PM
I don't know about permits. The one I built years ago was in a area that didn't require permits at the time. The cabin I built recently fell under a agriculture exemption.

randyt
02-16-2013, 07:50 PM
here's a link to cabin building article along with a you tube video. The fella running the class is from the tv series The mountain men.

http://alaskatrappers.org/cabin_building_workshop.html

hunter63
02-16-2013, 08:34 PM
Good stuff, thanks.....

crashdive123
02-16-2013, 08:40 PM
It would be cool to take one of his workshops. Good stuff.

Dennis
02-18-2013, 08:58 AM
Awesome thread thanks to everyone.

Oddmott
04-10-2013, 11:09 AM
I've started falling and stripping balsam logs for a cabin of my own. So far have eight 32ft+ logs down and curing. Got my eyes on another 30+, but they're too heavy for my friends horse to skid, and too deep in nasty bush to get at easily with the tractor. Looks like i'll have my work cut out for me. lol

A question I have is, have any of you ever seen a log cabin/house with a stackwall/cordwood 2nd story? I have it in my mind to try constructing something along those lines, but have never seen it done.

Suggestions/warnings as to the feasibility of such a project?

crashdive123
04-10-2013, 11:30 AM
Here's one member that has done it. She doesn't get on-line to much, so questions may go unanswered from her for a spell. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?8694-Another-way-of-building&highlight=built%20cabin

randyt
04-10-2013, 12:30 PM
just a opinion only. Building cordwood on top of a log wall seems like a bad idea. The reason being is that even dry logs settle so that would effect the cordwood stability. Many of the log cabins I've worked on had big all thread rods at the base of pillars and such. Once in awhile those were adjusted to compensate for settling.

hunter63
04-10-2013, 01:38 PM
I would think stack-wood is best on small shed type buildings....and I have to believe chinking would be a nightmare given the settling, shrinkage, etc.

This was posted on the tread that Crash put up....but still applies....
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Homes/1983-01-01/The-Thermal-Efficiency-of-Log-Homes.aspx#axzz2Q5DQl5TV

Oddmott
04-10-2013, 03:02 PM
Thanks for the thoughts all.

The settling was something I was worried about as well, but wasn't sure just how much of an impact it would/could have.

Do you think that if the 2nd floor was timber framed, with stackwall inserts it would be as much of a concern?

plumbmaster
05-16-2013, 07:55 PM
hello everyone I'm building a log cabin and have been cutting and peeling for the last two months on weekends only.i would like to hear and see all your pictures of your log cabins .ive been looking for a site like this for a long time. thanks plumb master

Ken
05-16-2013, 08:14 PM
hello everyone I'm building a log cabin and have been cutting and peeling for the last two months on weekends only.i would like to hear and see all your pictures of your log cabins .ive been looking for a site like this for a long time. thanks plumb master

Here's the best place to start if you have questions!

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?14-Introductions

plumbmaster
05-16-2013, 08:19 PM
thank you looks like a great site thanks for quick response

Adventure Wolf
06-16-2014, 10:12 PM
This is a great thread. Loved the pictures, and some of the information was good. I worked as a contractor under my father from the time I was 18 til the time I was 24. I understand how to build one of these, it sounds rather straight forward, but I have some questions about materials.

If I was to build a cabin, I would want to raise it off the ground. The reason why is that contact with the dirt would increase the rate in which the logs deteriorate. Does anyone have experience using scavenged stones from creek beds and rock outcrops to build the foundation for the cabin? I was thinking about scavenging up local stone and building the foundation with a standard mortar composed of two parts sand, one part portland and one part lime.

Secondly I would want a fireplace in my cabin for warmth, lighting and heating. Does anyone have experience building a fireplace out of scavenged stone? I would think building the fireplace using the same technique as the foundation would be common sense.

What do all think about using hatch to fill the crevasses in between logs and as a roofing material? I was thinking about using the classic straw and mud based thatching for construction. Do you think this would speed up the decomposition of the cabin? I've never worked with thatch before on a construction project, but it seems like an easy and cost efficient material to use. If thatching isn't a good idea, I would think that putting the logs close together and using regular caulk should be okay.

What type of sealant do you think I should use on the logs to reduce deterioration? I understand that a well built cabin should shed water from the log notches, yet I would like extra protection. Would you use regular deck sealant or would I use something more like a semi-transpiration exterior stain for siding?

pete lynch
06-17-2014, 04:54 AM
Why not use locust wood as a base? It resists rot pretty well and it is native to the southeast.
I have wondered if caulking backer rope would be usable for chinking logs.

crashdive123
06-17-2014, 06:34 AM
@ Adventure Wolf - I'll leave the log cabin specifics to those with more experience, but if you are building anything permanent in the south out of wood, then you will need to construct it so it is not in direct contact with the soil (on slab or off grade) otherwise termites will render it a semi-permanent structure.

Rick
06-17-2014, 06:57 AM
They've been known to do a fairly adequate job of that further north as well. I have a couple of neighbors battling them at the moment. It gets very expensive very quick.

Adventure Wolf
06-17-2014, 08:00 AM
Why not use locust wood as a base? It resists rot pretty well and it is native to the southeast.
I have wondered if caulking backer rope would be usable for chinking logs.

Black Locust is a rot resistant wood. I have head of black locust shingles lasting for over 150 years. I would have to do more research about it being used as a base before I felt comfortable with it. I will put my overpriced education to work and do some research on it.

randyt
06-17-2014, 06:35 PM
I helped build a 20 by 40 foot cabin from red cedar.The base was piers laid up fro flat stones. A fireplace was built in the center with the fireplace opening on one side and a wood cookstove on the other. The floor was dirt and eventually a concrete slab was poured and eventually plywood was placed over the slab. The gap under the logs between the piers was filled in with flat stones. The first year the roof was plywood painted with steel roof coating. Eventually the roof was insulated and steel was installed. Small poles were used for chinking with fiberglass stuffed in between the logs. This cabin has been holding up well for 34 years.

hunter63
06-17-2014, 08:06 PM
I use a sealer /stain from these guys on our cabin.


http://www.loghomestore.com/index.php?gclid=CO_OtfmPgr8CFQGtaQodP3EAAA

Sits on sonnet tubes 48" deep and concrete blocks....Code here.

Have seen some on poured concrete in holes and rock on top.

I cheated, my came by truck.......Logs interlock with tongue and groove...haven't chinked it yet....since 2006

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/new%20album/PICT0108.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/hunter63/media/new%20album/PICT0108.jpg.html)

randyt
06-17-2014, 08:35 PM
here's a cabin I built back in 1984. It's 16 by 12 feet, the logs were dragged up with a mule. The logs are southern yellow pine. It's set on flat rock piers. A floor system was nailed into the bottom log and joists were installed. Rough cut oak boards were used for door, floor, roof and gable ends. It's still holding up good.

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh227/randytlee/cabin002.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/randytlee/media/cabin002.jpg.html)

Lamewolf
06-18-2014, 07:30 AM
Practice building model cabin with sticks and then graduate to the full sized models.

cabingal4
07-22-2014, 09:27 PM
what a great thread.love seeing these log cabins.
i love log cabins.

Adventure Wolf
10-03-2014, 12:08 AM
How long can a well built cabin go without maintenance?

Rick
10-03-2014, 06:37 AM
And a follow up...Do you get any end rot on the butt and lap posts since they are exposed?

randyt
10-03-2014, 06:50 AM
I think a important factor to the longevity of a log structure is a good roof, roof overhang and foundation. I have friends that dismantle and relocate old hewn log cabins. These were generally built in the mid 1800s. Over the years someone took care of the roof. Many trappers cabins were built directly on the ground, these go fast. End log rot is a issue that needs to be monitored. These days there are borates and sealers to deal with some issues.

hunter63
10-03-2014, 11:11 AM
Had a sealer applied....not sure what but was cheap...(lot of stuff that is used is on the low end of costs by the Amish).

Had it blasted and stained after two years...logs turning gray.....still need to wait till the "green ness" dried out a bit.

As my logs were milled, with in the locking groves.....chinking wasn't needed right away....possibility down the road?

No end problems, and the building is on blocks and sonnet tubes.

There are about 6 versions of our cabin on our road....as the builder was only 7 miles away.....and the prices were good at the time.
Most were the basic 16' X 30' w/porch.......delivered closed up windows doors etc.....and were $15K. in 2005

One cabin was just put on block....sunk in and ended up on the ground....started to rot and had to be lifted and bottm beams rebuilt.....after sonnet tubes....Big job that could have been avoided with proper site and house prep.

Rick
10-03-2014, 11:14 AM
I'll bet that was a trip. You know it didn't sink level. You wake up in the middle of the night to find your wife on you. Well, hey, you say. Then you find out so's the dresser, the chair, the mirror, the.....

crashdive123
10-03-2014, 11:27 AM
I'll bet that was a trip. You know it didn't sink level. You wake up in the middle of the night to find your wife on you. Well, hey, you say. Then you find out so's the dresser, the chair, the mirror, the.....

Never look a gift horse in the mouth. The furniture on the other hand........

Rick
10-03-2014, 11:28 AM
Ummmmm. did you just call Mrs. Crash.....never mind.

crashdive123
10-03-2014, 11:32 AM
I thought about that as I hit "post quick reply" and thought nobody would pick up on it......I was wrong.:blush:

hunter63
10-03-2014, 11:38 AM
Funny part was .....funny odd, not funny ha ha...the guy is a know it all, does everything his way....doesn't like to be questioned....and finally HAD to act...or lose it.
Took a while and was slow......

I sure you all know people like this and he was bad......but this was actually bad enough that the was sympathy for him.

What the saying? "If you are gonna be stupid, you need a lot of money".....or word to that effect.

Rick
10-03-2014, 11:40 AM
Yeah, every neighborhood has an azzhole. If yours doesn't then you are probably it. Thankfully, mine has one.

hunter63
10-03-2014, 12:01 PM
Yeah, every neighborhood has an azzhole. If yours doesn't then you are probably it. Thankfully, mine has one.

Bhohahahah....you are most likely correct.....

Thing was these cabins are built to be transported .....so by catching it when he did....they were able to pick it up with out too much trouble.......was still a big job.....and lawn chair and brewskies job for the rest of us.......

Foley
03-21-2017, 10:48 AM
How long should the logs cure before being used for building a cabin?

hunter63
03-21-2017, 11:54 AM
How long should the logs cure before being used for building a cabin?

Hunter63 saying Hey and Welcome.......From Wisconsin.
There is an intro section to say Hello at:

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?14-Introductions

Logs for my cabin are pine, not sure what kind....
Were cut in northern Wisconsin, hauled to the Amish mill saw a stack at the mill were bigger than 8"....

Sawed to reduce size by sawing off dimensional lumber ..then milled to a 8" "D" shape.
So gonna guess were less that a year old....so need to dry after the build.

That is different that cutting peeling and drying ...then build in with them as is.
So not sure....but thinking based on some builds I have seen 6 months to a year.

Cut in fall and winter....dry a prep to build with in the summer....
Article says 1 to 2 years...
This may help...
http://www.logcabinhub.com/log-preparation-tips/

kyratshooter
03-21-2017, 02:17 PM
How long should the logs cure before being used for building a cabin?

Why not get on the phone and call a couple of the manufacturers? Ask them how long they cure their logs.

Most of them are small operations and the receptionist will probably know.

If they are air dried for a time that will give you some idea. If they are kiln dried not so much.

Back in the day when cabins were the primary shelter each family usually threw up an emergency cabin for the beginning of their homestead and worked on a larger more elaborate cabin as a second year project. The first cabin was often turned into a smokehouse or corn crib when the big house was finished.

Logs for the big cabin were usually cut in the winter when the sap was down. The type logs used were based on the region and the common wood of the area. Pine was used but seldom preferred. In the south pine beetles infested the wood and you could hear them chewing the wood at night. That was why they peeled the logs. The beetles would get just below the bark layer and do their work.

JohnLeePettimore
04-06-2017, 04:53 PM
Okay, since no one else said this, I just have to:

"You take a pile of logs, and arrange them in the shape of a cabin."

This is mainly for the Monty Python fans out there, or for anyone who has ever read instructions on "eHow".

Please forgive me. I have a condition known as "cantleaveastraightlinealoneitis".

hunter63
04-06-2017, 06:13 PM
Forget to say...."All you have to do is....." first......
I hear ya...LOL

Rick
04-06-2017, 08:23 PM
Well, we did have the guy that built a rock house each night. Dug wells for 'em too.

crashdive123
04-06-2017, 08:46 PM
Well, we did have the guy that built a rock house each night. Dug wells for 'em too.

OMG - almost forgot about him. Thanks for the evening chuckle.

JohnLeePettimore
04-08-2017, 04:11 PM
Well, we did have the guy that built a rock house each night. Dug wells for 'em too.

Whoosh! Right over the top of my head.

Please explain (or give link).

Rick
04-08-2017, 07:29 PM
Literally, we had a guy on here that professed to build rock houses along his way and talked about how easy it was. We do get some doozies on here.

crashdive123
04-08-2017, 08:29 PM
And.............he would dig a pit (well) every night when he stopped for the evening.

hunter63
04-08-2017, 09:17 PM
If I recall...he was claiming that a shovel was essential to dig a well for survival.
....and build his shelter house out of rocks.
Does it all the time.

He couldn't post pic's or the rock house when he was asked as it was....Raining,... not raining,... took pic but was dark out..
so you couldn't see it...too light so was just glare.....summer, winter, foggy....

Or the hand dug well every night....same reason.....
You get the idea....

WalkingTree
04-09-2017, 12:48 AM
Was this another guy or that Bear Grylls dude?

hunter63
04-09-2017, 01:08 AM
Naw I was looking for the link...so far no joy.....was a while back...
Was pretty outrageous....enough so, that it has gone down in WSF Infamy

Rick
04-09-2017, 06:22 PM
Yea, this is a pic from inside the well.

https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/5209067_f260.jpg

This is a pic of the house at night

https://usercontent2.hubstatic.com/5209067_f260.jpg

crashdive123
04-09-2017, 07:22 PM
Are your sure Rick? I think that second one might be from when his head was up.........nah......you're probably right.

hunter63
04-09-2017, 07:35 PM
I least we nail down the your basic building rock.....
On handers....
Two handers....
Bucket rocks....
Leverites.......

kyratshooter
04-10-2017, 12:45 AM
Are your sure Rick? I think that second one might be from when his head was up.........nah......you're probably right.

It would have been more clear than that. He had a glass belly button installed.

jaydendyck1
04-10-2017, 08:01 PM
I read this book titled diary of a wilderness dweller the author goes into detail the proper layout and design of a log cabin it's a good read check it out, but I'm sure it's not too much new info

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

JohnLeePettimore
04-11-2017, 08:58 AM
Any links to the posts of the "daily rock house builder?"