View Full Version : Corrugated roof questions

09-29-2011, 11:51 AM
I just scored on a roll of aluminum corrugated sheeting that's 2 pieces 48 width by 8 ft long.The ribs run the short length.
I think it came from the interior of a box trailer.
I'm thinking this would be ideal for a small chicken coop roof.Thing is I'm not sure how I can do the peak and make it look somewhat proffesional.
Thought about bending a piece in a press brake to get a roof cap.
Anybody have any ideas or websites?
Worst case I use it to cover a good section of my firewood stack.

09-29-2011, 12:03 PM
I have not put down any metal roofing. We did put down some corrugated fiberglass over a patio at my BIL's house but it was butted up against the house and not peaked. Here's a nailing diagram for you that I pulled from Google:


And a ridge covering. Looks like the press brake may be the way to go if you can't locate a cap. :




I don't know if YCC has done any metal or not.

09-29-2011, 12:04 PM
Just do lean-to roof and problem solved.

09-29-2011, 12:09 PM
Instead of an apex roof why not a pent roof. It would make life simple and the chickens won't care either way. (BTW my chicken house has a pent roof)

Free chicken coop plans.

09-29-2011, 12:16 PM
Yeah Winter,I'll probably just do the lean-to roof.That would make it a lot easier.
Thanks for the info Rick.The pictures are very helpful for fastening.

09-29-2011, 12:19 PM
Scratching my head on this pic. I've never heard of putting a screw as shown in #2, even with the rubber washer, into the valley. It's almost guaranteed to leak since that's where all the water flows. You should always use the ridge.


The corrugated ridge cap shown in this pic is available lots of places including the box stores. Not sure if the pattern would match what you received but they have an assortment.

I've also seen some homemade ridges made from things like 12" wide rubber belting that seem to work well.

09-29-2011, 12:25 PM
I think the valley fasterner is under the overlap. Sort of like a nail on 3 tabs. We used screws and washers on the peaks when we put my BILs in and we did not use lap seal between the overlaps since any leaks would be on a concrete patio. I don't think it's ever leaked though.

09-29-2011, 12:25 PM
Yeah,I'm thinking something like this except smaller with a corrugated roof extending over the run.


We got like almost 4 ft of snow last winter and was was terrible to keep an open chicken run clear.
If they can't get out they make a HUGE mess in the coop.I just have a dog coop reconfigured for chickens with a run attached now.
It's pretty much a shantie that getting pretty rotted out.

09-29-2011, 12:32 PM
We did a 60x40 ft. horse barn roof years back with a metal roof.
But the corrugation was a different shape and had flats in the valleys.So it sealed well screwing it down in the valleys.

09-29-2011, 12:32 PM
Coop of dreams. You build it I will move in.

10-04-2011, 06:46 AM
As professional as that diagram looks.. you NEVER put nails / screws in the low parts of metal roofing. Those troughs are where the water runs. If you put a hole in a place that collects water, what do you think will happen? The rubber washers that go on the screws are not dependable enough to put them in the troughs.

Just my 2 as the guy who always has to fix peoples metal roofs...

I don't think you'd have to use any sort of brake to bend the ridge cap. That corrugated aluminum is plenty flexible and should just lay right over.