Guns, Predators and Calibers up North???

[klickitat]

I have been on my way to Alaska for a while now and it was postponed until I finish school. I will be moving up North though in 2012 if God is willing.

Any how the question I want to know is about predator hunting. I hunt coyotes and bobcats down here in Washington. When I move up north I really want to continue and to add wolves to the mix.

Right now I use an AR15 in .223 on the west side and found that to be lacking on the east side due to the longer shots and the winds. I am looking at building a predator gun for the east side of the state with the idea that I will take it up north with me in the move.

I have a commercial FN Mauser in 30-06 and am looking at having it rebarrelled in either .243 or 25-06. What do you folks who have experience think of these two calibers? I would also like to know about lube, stock choices you prefer, and if there is a better choice including actions or calibers.

[Sourdough]

Why not just use the 30/06 you have now.......? If all you want to hunt is predators well it would make logic to build a super serious predator rifle. But for most Alaska hunters, predator hunting is mostly for winter recreation. And they just use one of there big game hunting rifles. Most Alaskan hunters would look at it this way.

One rifle for: Moose & Grizzly/Brown Bear & Buffalo

One rifle for: Sheep, Goats, Caribou, Wolves, Black Bear

One rifle for: Small Game

We have skanky weather, so pretty rifles suck, Your rifles will have a rough life. A .97 cent can of spray paint is you friend. Most of my firearms are "Butt'Ugly" but are built to hold point of aim.

I would NOT rebarrel the Mauser, it is not cost effective.

You might want to join the Alaska Outdoor Forum. Tell them AGL4now sent you.

[klickitat]

Here is the situation. I have always used firearms as a way to put away wealth. When times are hard I sell them and use them much like cashing in bonds or CDs. I have more than I can use or shoot. I actually have 3 30-06's right now and did not even pick up one of them for hunting this year. I hunted with either my double barrel shotgun or my PSL in 7.62x54.

Like I said. I am building a gun for hunting coyotes and bobcats on the east side of Washington. Over there it is typical to see shots out to 600 yards and the wind blows all the time. The AR15 is nice in the fact that it is semi auto but the light little bullets just do not buck the wind well enough to be accurate out past 200-300 at the far end. Even then it can be very tough if you have a true cross wind and you have to walk shots into your target sometimes.

I have been looking at the the .243 or the 25-06 so to extend my range out past 400 yards in windy conditions. I have a Remington and a Ruger 30-06 as well but if I am going to build a tack driver, I figured I might as well start with the best action. That FN action is a great action and a very desirable action for custom builders.

How do the laminated stocks hold up in the cold compared to let's say a fiberglass stock?

I hope that this explains my situation a little better. I understand it may not change the advice you have already given, but I feel that I have explained myself a little better anyhow.

[Rick]

Uh oh. You said the two most hated words. I'll be leaving now.

[lucznik]

...the two most hated words...

?????


As to the choice that was presented between the .243 or the .22-250; I personally would opt for the .243 because it's a short-action rifle round that:

1. Allows for the use of shorter, lighter rifles - which I prefer.
2. Has a "stiffer" action which, I am convinced, contributes to improved accuracy.
3. Uses less powder (comparatively speaking) for almost all loads.
4. Produces less recoil (...sort of).

Actually, with the exception of my .264 WM, I have pretty much given up on all long-action cartridges for everything up to and including moose.

YMMV

[hunter63]

Uh oh. You said the two most hated words. I'll be leaving now.

I'm thinking..."laminated stocks hold up in the cold compared to let's say a fiberglass stock"?

[klkak]

?????


As to the choice that was presented between the .243 or the .22-250; I personally would opt for the .243 because it's a short-action rifle round that:

1. Allows for the use of shorter, lighter rifles - which I prefer.
2. Has a "stiffer" action which, I am convinced, contributes to improved accuracy.
3. Uses less powder (comparatively speaking) for almost all loads.
4. Produces less recoil (...sort of).

Actually, with the exception of my .264 WM, I have pretty much given up on all long-action cartridges for everything up to and including moose.

YMMV

He wants to rebarrle an FN Mauser in 30.06.

[Rick]

lucznik - You don't use the words "tack driver" around Sourdough unless you're talking about hammers.

[Sourdough]

lucznik - You don't use the words "tack driver" around Sourdough unless you're talking about hammers.


Or if one can in fact shoot a 1/8" five shot group at 100 yards, O'yes must do it 100% of the time. And never say: What "Caliber" you shoot, when one means: What "Cartridge" you shoot. And one must never say "Clip" when talking about a "Magazine".

[LowKey]

Well, one could actually build a tack driver without necessarily being able to operate one...
The gun is capable. The shooter? Hmm...

<course I don't know if a gun could be built to .125" grouping tolerance either.>

[Winter]

Klick, what part of Alaska are you looking at?

Every region would have different wants.

Stainless or a coating are important in the southeast. Shorter barrels and far shorter engagement ranges in the SE as well.

For fairbanks and north you may want something in a larger caliber and longer barrels for the longer ranges.

I'm really only familiar with the SE. I played Army games in at Rich but never just wandered.

[klickitat]

To be honest, the gun has to work for what I need now for the next 2 years and hopefully I can find enough foresight to build for what I need up there as well.

When I move the family it will be around a job I find which means I will most likely starting in either Anchorage or Fairbanks. My wife and kids are pushing for SE Alaska (everyone likes the the coastal areas) but it really depends on the job situation.

What I am looking at building is a rifle I can use on the East side now and something that will be useful up North when I do move. I will be building a rifle capable of going out to 600 yards with no wind and 400 yards with up to a 20 mile hour cross wind. This means I need a bullet that weighs at least 100- 120 grains. I have a donor rifle already that is chambered in 30-06 and am wanting to work off of that.

I figure I might as well build it for cold weather for future use up north. I really have no idea where I will end up in the North, so a general build is the best I can hope for. With what I need down here, I am hoping for advice that will also translate to up there.

[SARKY]

Just get a 6.5 Grendel upper for your AR. That will give you the distance, buck wind drift and have the down range energy to knock it down.

[kyratshooter]

Just get a 6.5 Grendel upper for your AR. That will give you the distance, buck wind drift and have the down range energy to knock it down.

And keep the 30-06 as a 30-06 because that is what you are going to be using 90% of the time anyway.

You have not mentioned a single requirement the 30-06 would not fill well.

[klkak]

How bout the 6.5-06. My first 6 years here in Alaska I used my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser. I still use it from time to time. The 6.5-06 is a little more of a good thing.

The 6.5-06 would meet or exceed all your requirements. You would of course have to be a reloader to use it though.