Knife/Survival Knife Info.

[Gray Wolf]

Patti did post this is on their site:

DO NOT CALL THE BUSSE SHOP for any questions, comments, or inquiries concerning SCRAP YARD KNIFE CO. They are not us and we are not them. All questions must be forwarded in the form of emails. Emails will be responded to within 48 hours. We reserve the right to refuse service to anyone for any reason whatsoever.

If you call the Busse Shop regarding SCRAP YARD KNIFE CO., we will NOT sell to you . . .ever! It is that simple and there are NO exceptions. We have an agreement with Busse Combat and any violation of this could end in us losing our contract.

[Gray Wolf]

This is on their homepage:

http://www.scrapyardknives.com/intro.htm

An introduction by Patricia Busse:

My husband Dan worked in his brother Jerry’s small custom knife shop from 1982 - 1986, where he learned to appreciate the simplistic beauty of a high performance, competition grade knife. The guys in the shop used to call him “Dan The Hack” because his fit and finish were secondary concerns as he only cared about blade performance and little else. . . His philosophy was simple, if it didn’t affect the performance of the knife, he didn’t bother spending any time on it. So, his knives were a whole lotta ugly in the looks department with their simple handles and full-height flat ground blades, but their performance was simply amazing. He worked primarily with tool steels and had a strong attachment to the outrageous toughness of the shock and spring steel grades. He used a lot of 5160, A-2, D-2, 0-1, and other popular steels of the time until he stumbled upon S-7 shock steel. He simply could not get over the toughness of this steel and finally settled on this grade for his big fixed blades that would be called upon to stand up to ridiculous amounts of abuse and hard use. His love affair with spring and shock steels began way back then and has continued through to this day.

Over the past 20 years he has longed to return to his first love of making knives. And for nearly 25 years, scrap piles of unused steel and handle material have been building up in the Busse knife shop. Dan is a firm believer in the “waste not, want not” school of thought and it is this belief and desire that has coursed him back into what is now known as The Scrap Yard Knife Company. Through months of ”dumpster diving” and warehouse digging at the Busse Knife compound, Dan and I have secured literally tons of the finest tool steels available and other supplies that will allow us to bring a line of high performance American made blades to the market place at very affordable prices.

Enjoy your visit to our website and we look forward to assisting you in your quest for the ultimate knife.

Patti Busse

[madsurvivor2006]

get a good fixed blade that will fit in your can. I think bark river or blindhorse knive will be two of the best for what your looking to do.

[crashdive123]

Cool, I'll look at those madsurvivor2006. In the meantime, how about heading on over to the introduction section and tell us a bit about yourself.

[madsurvivor2006]

tell me how id be glad to

[crashdive123]

It's toward the bottom of the Wilderness Survival Forum page, just above Blogs. Here's a link to make it easier. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=14

[madsurvivor2006]

ok thanks im going there now

[crashdive123]

I checked out the Blindhorse knives - like the Bush Craft Knife. Some of them were a bit pricy for me, but they looked like good knives. Same with the Bark Rive Knives - they look great, but it's a little scarey with no prices listed.

[madsurvivor2006]

when it comes to a knife that you have to save you or some one with you buy the best that you can afford, then you have piece of mind that it will be reliable.

[chiye tanka]

Crash, most of bark river's knives are around $100.00 and up. I have a link for a company but I'll have to get it to you tomorrow.

[erunkiswldrnssurvival]

My personal favorite is Solengen knives, made in germany, they are forged from the finest quality german steel.they range from the 100's also.

[crashdive123]

I've already looked at their site. Looks like some nice knives. Just a little spendy for me. But thanks. I've got a couple of different knives and they seem to serve me pretty well.

[Blood Groove]

I'd like to try a Nessmuk style knife. I don't know what the weird designe is for. I'm sure people here have read that book Woodcraft and Camping by "Nessmuk"

[Ole WV Coot]

I'd like to try a Nessmuk style knife. I don't know what the weird designe is for. I'm sure people here have read that book Woodcraft and Camping by "Nessmuk"

Here are a couple I made for my grandson. That's the style I like, fits the hand, slices well, good skinner. It is not an axe or saw just a good style blade. If you want you can modify an Old Hickory skinner and for under $10 you can make one. I make my own because none are available except custom. The blade ain't "mean" looking, just works great.

[nell67]

Very nice Coot!

[Gray Wolf]

As I said when I first saw them, "they're a work of art"!

Coot what kind of steel did you use?

[Riverrat]

Very nice job...really nice shape. When I get the shop up and finished, will have to try to make a knife, be completely off track for me, never worked with metal before.

[chiye tanka]

Very nice work Coot.

[Blood Groove]

Coot, that looks just like the one in the book. That's so cool. I read this artical on the internet of custom made ones, and yours look just as good. I like the sheaths especially. So what is the "hump-back" used for. I mean what would Nessmuk have wanted a hump on the back of his knife

[Ole WV Coot]

As I said when I first saw them, "they're a work of art"!

Coot what kind of steel did you use?

I appreciate that. Those are made from a 10" carbide tipped saw blade, full tang. Handles are hardwood. Maple on the larger one and cherry on the small. I used 1/2" flooring scraps. Pins are brass welding rod, thong hole on the larger is a 22mag case. I cut the blades out with a Dremel tool, heated to cherry red and cooled slowly,drilled the holes on the drill press, removed stock with a belt sander, then smoothed with a large mill file. Reheated to non magnetic, quenched in 10W30, cleaned and reheated about 3/4" of edge with a torch. Edge quenched in water, kept the blade pretty cool while heating the edge. Went by color and had a decent edge line. After epoxy and brass shaped the handles with sandpaper and used a tomato to coat the blade except for the edge. Next day I cleaned them up a bit, sewed sheaths and that's it. Not complicated at all. I use a forge sometimes but for this type of blade this is faster and quicker. If you don't heat up the saw blade you can draw file it to shape and it will have a decent holding edge. Those are strong, working knives and nothing really fancy except the tomato acid to kinda age and dull the top of the blade.:)

[Ole WV Coot]

Blood Groove, the hump works like a good skinner, keeping the guts from getting cut. If you read the dimensions on the knife the blade is thin, but not flexible. Sears carried a small double bit axe and a good pocket knife. The knife isn't too big yet not too small and can be used around camp, kitchen or in the field. It ain't a true fighter, skinner or "survival" type, but I personally use one most every day and even banged one thru a treated 2X4 with a hammer and didn't hurt the edge but put a few dents in the back. They are tools I make and use. I have a few scattered around I didn't bother to clean but they do their job.

[Gray Wolf]

I appreciate that. Those are made from a 10" carbide tipped saw blade, full tang. Handles are hardwood. Maple on the larger one and cherry on the small. I used 1/2" flooring scraps. Pins are brass welding rod, thong hole on the larger is a 22mag case. I cut the blades out with a Dremel tool.

Coot, I like how you used scraps, brass welding rod, and a shell case. There was no problems cutting the saw blade with a Dremel tool? Did you cut the blade and tang to almost the final shape with the Dremel? Also it's very deceiving how the saw blade looks so thick. Thanks for sharing your tips! ;)

[Ole WV Coot]

Coot, I like how you used scraps, brass welding rod, and a shell case. There was no problems cutting the saw blade with a Dremel tool? Did you cut the blade and tang to almost the final shape with the Dremel? Also it's very deceiving how the saw blade looks so thick. Thanks for sharing your tips! ;)

The full thickness of a saw blade is plenty for a knife and the Dremel cuts very well even if it takes a couple of discs for each blade. With a good, long file draw filing removes lots of metal quickly with very good control. I cut within an 1/8" of my line and if necessary it is easily smoothed. A 10" carbide tip saw blade steel is decent as is because only the tips have been changed. The brass pins are almost decorative because 2ton epoxy would hold very well, I sometimes drill a few more holes than necessary to give the epoxy more "bite". I think you could make a knife like I do without any problem. If I can give any help just let me know.:)

[Gray Wolf]

Thanks Coot, which # Dremel disc (Cut-off Wheel) are you using?

[Fletcher]

Thas ts good work VW Coot. Can a lawn mower blade be used for knife makeing?

[crashdive123]

Can a lawn mower blade be used for knife makeing?

Yep.......

[ATough]

I have taken a shine, to the Smith and Wesson baby SWAT knife. and its only $30.

[Fletcher]

Yep.......

Thanks.........no really I mean it!!

[crashdive123]

Just think of it as a leaf spring that somebody put a bit of an edge on.

[Blood Groove]

Blood Groove, the hump works like a good skinner, keeping the guts from getting cut. If you read the dimensions on the knife the blade is thin, but not flexible. Sears carried a small double bit axe and a good pocket knife. The knife isn't too big yet not too small and can be used around camp, kitchen or in the field. It ain't a true fighter, skinner or "survival" type, but I personally use one most every day and even banged one thru a treated 2X4 with a hammer and didn't hurt the edge but put a few dents in the back. They are tools I make and use. I have a few scattered around I didn't bother to clean but they do their job.

Ahh so that hump keeps the guts and stuff out fo the way so their not punctured when skinning. OK that makes sence. Well I'm really impressed with them.

[tonester]

did some hiking over the weekend and took my Breeden knives with me. i made some fuzz sticks and split some logs that were 4 to 5 inches thick with ease.

[Wild Wolf]

Hi all, I've read the entire thread and if I missed it, so sorry.
Here is a site I've found in the past couple of weeks.

http://www.khukurihouseonline.com/

Quotes from the site;

"Kukri/khukuri house of Nepal owned and run by ex-Gurkha army officer.


Kukris/khukuris made in Eastern part of Nepal by ex-Gurkha armory specialist.


Gurkha knife/knives and original kukris/khukuris inspected, admired and recommended by Gurkha VCs. VCs’ visit the Kukri/Khukuri House. "

I don't own anything of theirs yet but am looking at their military line.

Some here have expressed an interest in this type knife, so there they are.

[crashdive123]

Hi all, I've read the entire thread

Whew! You must have been reading a while.:D;)

[RangerXanatos]

What I've heard about Kukri House is that their products they are decent but you might as well buy from Himalayan Imports for around the same price because of the shipping.
http://www.himalayan-imports.com/
The price that you see is the price that you pay. Everything is hand made out of a leaf spring. And the have the best warranty on a knife that I've ever seen. Check out the "Chiruwa Ang Khola." Break or bend it and get 2 free!

If I can get the time to charge up my camera, I'll post a picture of my CAK khuk.

[crashdive123]

RX - they like nice and all, but I'll stick with the under $20 ones that I have.

[RangerXanatos]

I completely understand. My machete sees a whole lots more use than it does. But it is something that would rely on to not break when even being abused.

[RangerXanatos]

Side view of my CAK khukuri.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/rangerxanatos/junk/DSCF0480.jpg


Notice the thickness and the full tang.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u3/rangerxanatos/junk/DSCF0481.jpg

Daniel

[trax]

wehehehelll, like the man said, "got knife?"

[chiye tanka]

According to Madison Parker's site, the knife the SEAL's are being issued for jungle survival is the Cold Steel Kukri.
I guess if it's good enough for them, it must work well for survival.

[crashdive123]

This isn't to dispute any claims about gear issued to Navy Seals, but one of the boats I was on did Seal and Special Forces insertions - they got pretty much anything they wanted.

[chiye tanka]

He77, I hope so!

[Blood Groove]

kukri House is amazing!! I got the Genuine Gurkha kukri (It's the one they issue to the Gurkhas) And it's great quality. All hand forged, genuine water buffalo horn handle, 1095 high carbon spring steel. It's amazing the work they do, and how in expensive they are, even with the amazing materials and quality. The spine of the blade is increadibly thick like the one shown above. They've got the chopping power of a much larger machete, but are smalled and really easy to wield especially in close spaces. The come amazingly sharp. The only knife I have sharper than that kukri is my brand new recon tanto, or my sweedish mora.

[Blood Groove]

But...the downside was that comming straight from nepal, it took a 5 weeks to get here. That was kind of annoying.

[Gray Wolf]

I couldn't resist, today I bought a Brand New "WAYNE JARRETT CUSTOM HAND MADE JK HUNTER KNIFE"

Specifications:
Full Length 9.25"
Blade Length 4 1/2" Flat Grind for smooth cutting stroke
Blade Material 1095 High Carbon Steel Differentially Heat Treated with Spectacular Hamon Line
Handle Material Professionally Stabilized tiger maple with amazing color
Custom Hand Made Leather sheath made by Jarrett.
Nice file work on spine!

A $250 knife for $90! :eek: :D :D

And now I get to really test a expensive knife out in the field!!! It says it's guaranteed for as long as he's alive. :D

(For those who do not know what a Hamon Line is from: During the Differential Heat Treatment, a special clay mixture is put on the blade, it's put thicker on the top, and then gets thinner towards the cutting edge so parts of the blade cool differently.)

[crashdive123]

Nice looking knife. The scales are great.

[chiye tanka]

That's a fine piece of steel you stole there.

[Wild Wolf]

I have seen and read and heard opinions expressed that the perfect survival blade is:
Non bowie type,
4 to 5 inches in length,
No hand guard.
Even Field and Stream has a test that follows this methodology.

To each his own. I offer this web site under the blades page as food for thought.
http://www.sererescuesog.addr.com/USRSOG-Blades.htm

This site is oriented toward SERE Skills but it is survival.
Examination of the Frontier and Mountain Men all had larger knives as well as smaller and tomahawks. I watched my father clean, skin and cut up my first deer kill. The second on was mine to complete.
No one blade can do it and one large and smaller may be a better solution.

Like I said food for thought and to each his own.

[crashdive123]

Good info. Thanks.

[Blood Groove]

I really liked reading what they had to say about knives, that was very interesting.

[chiye tanka]

Yep, good stuff. I love my CS knives, they've never let me down.

[Blood Groove]

Cold Steel is great. I have a bushman and a Recon tanto. The bushman is so cool how it can be a spear, it works extremely well. I got the Tanto for a great deal of 50 dollars. So Chiye tanka what cold steel knives do you have? I'd love to have one of their more expensive knives, but they get pretty pricey for me.

[Blood Groove]

Hey for anyone who's interested pictures of the knife I made are finally up on my Forging a Knife thread in the making stuff section. You should take a look.

[chiye tanka]

BG, you asked for it: 2 Trail Masters, 2 Recon Scouts, 2 SRK's, Recon Tanto, Master Hunter, Bush Ranger, 2 Voyagers tanto point, 1 Voyager clip point, Kobun, awe he//, I can't remember them all. I'm trying to photo my collection for the knife nutz group. Should be done in a couple days, then you can just see them.
I did just get the Pocket Bushman the other day. Haven't gotten to use it yet though.

My name is Chiye Tanka and I have a knife problem!:D

[Ameriborn]

Is the regular bushman the one you can make a spear out of? If I remember correctly, it is, and for the price range, I hear they are really good knives for survival purposes, as it can be easily made into a spear.

[S.E.R.E Guy]

Well since you said you carry a leatherman thats a good little folder because you can use it for skinning anything. So you might as well carry both, I have used the Gerber LMF which is a very good knife but the Cold Steel Scout is a very good fixed blade. But I would be sure to have a sharpening stone too, but then you could always make one out in the woods

[Blood Groove]

BG, you asked for it: 2 Trail Masters, 2 Recon Scouts, 2 SRK's, Recon Tanto, Master Hunter, Bush Ranger, 2 Voyagers tanto point, 1 Voyager clip point, Kobun, awe he//, I can't remember them all. I'm trying to photo my collection for the knife nutz group. Should be done in a couple days, then you can just see them.
I did just get the Pocket Bushman the other day. Haven't gotten to use it yet though.

My name is Chiye Tanka and I have a knife problem!:D

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: That is totally amazing! Man TWO trail masters and recon scouts AND SRK's??? That's just out of this world! Why did you get two and not just one? The Recon scout is just like a smaller version of the Trail master right? Voyagers are great pocket knives. The cold steel guys do pull-ups on them to test the locking mechanism. Wow that's so cool how many knifes you have. OK here's a tough question....which one's your favorite?:confused:

[Blood Groove]

Is the regular bushman the one you can make a spear out of? If I remember correctly, it is, and for the price range, I hear they are really good knives for survival purposes, as it can be easily made into a spear.

Yeah you can make a very very effective spear out of the bushman, and it throws great. That really is an amazing survival knife and you just can't beat teh price on it either.

[tonester]

i dont own any knives from coldsteel yet. i really like the master hunter and the pendleton. you guys got any suggestions?

[chiye tanka]

I'd say the SRK. I skinned six deer and a moose before I had to sharpen it. That's why I have 2 of those models. CS stopped making them from Carbon V, so I bought extras in case something ever happened to one of them.
I love guns and knives, but sooner or later, you run out of ammo.

[Blood Groove]

Yeah I would have chosen the SRK too. It's more utilitarian than the Recon tanto IMO. I wanted an SRK, but I got a great deal onthe Recon tanto that I couldn't pass up, so I got the tanto. The only thing I wish is that the Srk and Recon tanto had a metal guard, adn some kind of butt cap like the Ka-bar has.

[chiye tanka]

Bussee, Scrap Yard, Tops, they're all great knives.
Tone, I agree with BG, if you're going with CS, the SRK's the way to go.
If price is not an issue, look at some custom knives.

[firesage]

I post rarely, if ever on this site but I feel as If I can provide some insight here. You really need to decide what task your using your knife for. As strictly a survival knife your Leather man will do nicely. That being said it will not chop or dig or trim limbs with any speed for this you will need a fixed blade to do most of the heavy lifting. I would recommend the Kukri.

The kukri (Devanāgarī: खुकुरी)(also sometimes spelled khukri or khukuri) is a curved Nepalese knife used as both tool and weapon. It is also a part of the regimental weaponry and heraldry of Gurkha fighters. It is known to many people as simply the "Gurkha Blade" or "Gurkha Knife". Also widely used in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand state of India, where it is called Kaanta or Dafya (in Kumaoni).

I taught wilderness survival In Mt, I was out for 4 months. If I could only one thing with me it would be my Kukri. It can do it all.

[chiye tanka]

Firesage thanks for the info. How bout you head over to the intros and tell us about yourself.

[AVENGED]

I Have A 942 Benchmade Folding Knife I Bring. But The Best Fix Blade Knife I've Ever Has Was My Grandfather's Ka Bar From WWII Era. Its Wooden Handle Is Worn To Fit Your Hand Very Nicely. Its Heaver Than Most I've Had, But Holds An Edge Better Than Other's I've Owned.

[tonester]

i love benchmade. i carry a griptillian every where i go.

[AVENGED]

I Have Never Found A Knife That Feels The Same As It Did The Day I Bought It. Plus I'm The Best Person To Sharpen A Knife, So I Just Send Them In With $5 And They Look Them Over For Damage And Usually Fix It For Free And Then They Sharpen It. Can't Say Any Bad Things About Them.

[HOP]

Here are some medium sized blades 4-5" that would get the job done (I stil like big blades as well). The Top left in photo is a Becker campanion(there is a new one out from K-bar called champion) right is SOG revolver with saw bottom left is Buck 880 the only folder I would concider taking solo and botom is a Cold Steel Master Hunter in carbon v. http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/HOP_2007/100_0672.jpg

[RangerXanatos]

How do you like the Sog Revolver? I'm kinda weary of it out in the field since it folds.

[HOP]

Ranger x it rotates not folds and the release is flush with the handle . It appears safe enough to me the blade or saw rotates up out of the handle so preasure on the cuting edge would only reinforce the stability of the blade.

[RangerXanatos]

So would you be afraid of the pin that it rotates upon popping out?

[crashdive123]

I believe that one of our members designed it and holds the patent on the Seal Revolver.

[HOP]

I do not fear the knife it is at least as strong as any folding knife out there. If the pin did drop out or some other phenomenan the blade would probably fal prey to gravity and stay in the sheath or hit the ground.

[tonester]

hey HOP that becker campanion looks really nice!

[HOP]

Tonester it is one of the old ones made bt Camilus for Becker they don't make them anymore . K-bar is making the Becker design now and they are caling the one that looks like the campanion the champion and they are out along with a becker necker as well.
Is that a RAT Cutlery RC-4 in you avatar?

[AVENGED]

I Was Looking At Getting The Benchmade NRA Hunter's Pack. Has Anyone Used It? I'm Curious As To How Well It Works.

[HOP]

I have heard god things about the Benchmade NRA stuf on a knife forum I go to . I have one benchmade knife it is a folder the Presedio and it is of top quality. Some of the guys on bladeforums can be a little snobish about knives but they are quite knowledgeable about the uses of a knife and this one gets good marks.

[nell67]

I believe that one of our members designed it and holds the patent on the Seal Revolver.
You are correct crash,that would be Robbie Roberson.

[tonester]

Tonester it is one of the old ones made bt Camilus for Becker they don't make them anymore . K-bar is making the Becker design now and they are caling the one that looks like the campanion the champion and they are out along with a becker necker as well.
Is that a RAT Cutlery RC-4 in you avatar?

yah its a rc-4. i own one and i love it. i also got a leather sharpshooter sheath for it. ive seen the new becker necker, but ive been looking everywhere for the new becker champion and i cant find one. do you know where i can find one?

[chiye tanka]

Love that Becker, wish I still had mine.

[HOP]

yah its a rc-4. i own one and i love it. i also got a leather sharpshooter sheath for it. ive seen the new becker necker, but ive been looking everywhere for the new becker champion and i cant find one. do you know where i can find one?

Try knifecenter.com they ofer them as a new item they have corected the name spelling from champion to campanion. They are $65 and some change .

[Badawg]

I have had a Ka-Bar model for a couple of years and am very happy with the durability of the knife itself. The scabbard on the other hand is complete trash... Starting a new one in the shop this week. I have some HDPE that I am going to attempt to use.

[Blood Groove]

Hey you got yours from Kukri house, that's where I got my Gurkah kukri. It is amazing, I think that all the stuff they make there at KUkri House, is very very high quality and utilitarian. I love my kukri, it's my favorite knife.

[bulrush]

Could someone please tell me what the weird notch on the blade, near the handle, is for? Is it for striking flints to make fire?

[tonester]

Could someone please tell me what the weird notch on the blade, near the handle, is for? Is it for striking flints to make fire?

haha i was thinking the same thing. every time i see one i always wonder why that is there.

[RangerXanatos]

I understand that perhaps no one really knows though there are some good suggestions.

Some say the first person to make the type of knife used it as a signature.
Some say it is a mark of one of their Gods.
Some say it's a point for blood to run off so it won't make the handle slippery since it's also designed for use as a weapon.
Some say it's all of the above, though I lean toward the last reasoning.

Daniel.

[Ole WV Coot]

Nepalese kukris after 1800 will always have a notch or kauri commonly referred to as a cho cut into the blade directly in front of the grip and bolster. The kauri is greatly disputed as to its necessity: Is it a practical design to catch and neutralize and enemy’s blade or a Hindu religious symbol representing male or female organs, or does it represent the sacred cow’s hoof? Many Indian and very early Nepalese versions will not have this notch nor will some later military kukris. Kamis would display their skill by forming this small part of the blade into designs and even fleur de lys or other floriate shapes. Now that sure clears it up don't it?

[BaerClaw]

was wondering if anyone has made one of these small knives and if you feel like they would be adequate in an emergency kit. i like it and i think it's a clever idea just don't know how it would do. it would make a good knife for a kit. here's the link sorry if this has been covered but i couldn't find anything on it.

http://www.m4040.com/Survival/10_Cent_Survival_Knife/10_Cent_Survival_Knife.htm

[crashdive123]

Yep - I've made about a dozen or so of them. How about dropping by the introduction section when you get a chance and tell us a bit about yourself. Thanks.

[Gray Wolf]

I've made quite a few of them. Made all different types of modifications using the basic design. One mod is great for spear fishing. Many thanks to M4040 for lots of great ideas.

[Rick]

There used to be a nifty little knife called the Christy Knife company out of Ohio. Unfortunately, the old man recently passed away and the son is in the process of relocating the shop or something. I spoke with the mom a couple of months ago and she said they hoped to be producing them again "soon" (whatever that means).

http://www.heimerdingercutlery.com/catalog/images/christy101companion.JPG

As for the hacksaw knife, just follow M40s directions. If you don't have a belt sander use a dremel tool or even a file.

[BaerClaw]

Yep - I've made about a dozen or so of them. How about dropping by the introduction section when you get a chance and tell us a bit about yourself. Thanks.

ok will do.

also thanks every one ill put it on the to do list as soon as i get access to a grinder.

[Reiver]

Yep, M4040 is a very good 'knifeologist' (is that a word?). I used his instructions to modify my khukri - what a good field knife! His site is definitely worth a good look over.

[chiye tanka]

Just a little FYI, the becker companion is back. My knife guy got 2 in on Fri, runs around $70.00.

[HOP]

C T I have one of the old Beckers made by Camillus I had 2 but gave one to a local solider headed in harms way.
I did buy one of the Laminated Becker neckers, had an old on but lost it on the hiking trail. I went to order a new carbon Becker necker but they are back ordered right now.
I really admire the Becker Magnum Camp Knife but Ethan Becker say it most likely will not be reproduced due to lack of popularity.

[chiye tanka]

HOP, my knife guy's got 2 of the becker neckers in both steels. If you'd like his info, PM me.

[samfranklin]

What I usually carry is a small tobacco tin survival kit and for a knife another pouch with a multi tool and a 3" flick survival knife that I got in a set!

Good Luck

Sam

[crashdive123]

Again with the tobacco tin. How about going on over to the introduction section and tell us about it.

[Rick]

See? It's the roll you own kind for sure.

[HOP]

Thanks C T but I ordered a carbon steel necker and a RAT RC6 today and a Cold Steel folding Bushman. (got a Little carried away).

[HOP]

Here are some inexpensive Knives from Sweden On the left is Hulafors and the right are some Moras. The top mora is about my favorite knife it is laminated. The bottom mora is the most useful to me it is laminated as well.http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/HOP_2007/100_0686.jpg

[tonester]

i love moras. i have three. they are very inexpensive so i dont feel bad when i abuse them haha. all of my moras are carbon steel.

[tonester]

new knives from breeden!

[crashdive123]

Nice looking knives.

[Pict]

Survival Knives

In my reasoning a “Survival Knife” is a resource to get you through a “Survival Situation”. All else has failed for some reason and I have to fall back on the contents of my head and the items on my person to stay alive until I can get to safety. The survival knife is the last line of defense.

The very idea of a survival kit located on the sheath knife is that the knife is the most basic piece of gear and stays belted on during any wilderness activity. It cannot fall out of a pocket and is unlikely to be left behind by accident. It is unlikely to be lost overboard or swept away when crossing a river. If a person needs to exit a burning vehicle the kit goes with him while the pack may be lost.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/5337/bb2macclimbingxx8.jpg

Placing survival items on a knife sheath also presupposes that the normal items carried in the pack cover any foreseeable needs and that nothing in the knife kit should have to be used under normal circumstances, other than the knife itself. They are limited to the items necessary to spend a night or two in the wilderness and signal for help with no other resources other than the contents of the knife kit. The items in the kit must be capable of getting wet and must not degrade with time.

Knife Choices

Over the years I have been through a constant evolution in terms of what blade occupied this role. For many years I carried a Ka-Bar or the Air Force Survival Knife set up as a kit knife. In both cases I covered the sheaths with a rubber sleeve of some sort and put the kit contents under the sleeve. This system worked very well as long as I paid attention to the condition of the rubber.

Upon arrival in Brazil it quickly became apparent that I would have to carry a machete at all times. The most effective combination here is a machete and a small fixed blade. For a long time I carried the AFSK kit knife in this role. Upon further evaluation I decided that if for some reason I lost the machete that the AFSK would be inadequate by itself. Most often I leave my machete attached to my pack and if it were lost I would be in trouble.

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/2839/bb2bk7withsplitcandeiawyk7.jpg

The Ka-Bar was too light for much of the chopping tasks encountered here. I decided that my survival knife needed to be capable of chopping and clearing trail if it was the only tool I had. I finally settled on the Becker BK-7 and Livesay NRGS neck knife as the tools that always stay on my person in the bush.

http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/7537/img1878si5.jpg

I think ideally the kit should be built around a machete but I know myself in that I don’t like having anything that large attached to me in the bush. The BK-7 kit is about as much as I tolerate. I have a tendency to put my machete on my belt when traveling in heavy brush because the machete is in and out of its sheath often enough to warrant having it on the belt. If I run into the occasional snag I have found the BK-7 to be effective in cutting myself free but it is much harder to swing it constantly like a machete.

http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/5853/garliccamp023eu3.jpg

Likewise I vastly prefer the machete for clearing campsites and constructing shelters. The BK-7 can do these things as well but it is more work. I can live with this limitation because I can live with the BK-7 on my belt at all times. I know my habits enough to know that if I am in the bush with only a machete and small fixed blade that the small blade will be on my person and the machete attached to the pack 90% of the time. I’m much less likely to lose the BK-7 and it works well enough for a survival situation if that’s all I have.



BK-7 Kit Knife

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/2021/bb2bk7canteenandcupfe2.jpg

HANDLE CONTENTS – The handle scales of the knife can be removed to reveal two small hollow cavities. These are removed with a small hex-wrench and filled with a fishing/trapping kit: line, sinkers, hooks, wire.

SHEATH CONTENTS – The sheath has a pouch that fits an Altoids tin and there is room below it to attach items with a rubber sleeve. Paracord is attached to the leg tie at bottom of the sheath and the wrist lanyard hole on the handle of the knife.

KNIFE SHARPENER
- US Army ceramic stone, Tied on, rides under velcro strap on top of Altoids tin

FIRE – The kit has both tinder and an initiator that are impervious to the elements.
- Sparklite fire starter, tin
- Sparklite tinder, 4, tin
- BSA Hotspark, in pouch alongside tin
- Straw of treated cotton, spare straw in tin
- Strike anywhere matches, waterproof, 6, under rubber sleeve
- Birthday Candles, 3, under rubber sleeve
- Rubber ranger bands, excellent fire-starters, various locations

WATER – The knife contains both a water container and treatment method.
- 5 liter galão de Emergêcia, rolled tightly under rubber sleeve below pouch
- Potassium Permanganate, 20mg, tin

SHELTER – The shelter provisions are intended to make the construction of an expedient shelter easier, not necessarily to compose a shelter. There are three components, water/wind proofing, heat proofing, and cordage. In practicality only a space blanket will fit on the sheath, attached by wide black rubber bands below the pouch. The space blanket is waterproof/windproof and will trap body heat. The duct tape is used to seal leaks and join seams. The space blanket and rolled water carrier is no more bulky than the pouch and Altoids tin above them.

- Space Blanket, under rubber sleeve
- Para cord, 7 strand, 2 meters attached as leg tie
- Duct tape, 1 meter, wrapped around space blanket
- Heavy needle and #4 waxed line for clothing repairs, tin

SIGNALS
- Starflash mirror, tin
- ACR Whistle, under rubber sleeve on back of sheath
- Inova Night Vision Red LED light, tin on braided neck cord
- Other signal methods include space blanket as reflector/marker, and fire/smoke
- Night signal reflector on back of medallion compass

NAVIGATION
- Medallion type liquid filled compass with braided #4 waxed-line neck cord, tin

LIGHT
- Inova Night Vison Red LED light
- 3 Birthday Candles
- Fire
MEDICAL
- Moleskin, inside bottom of tin
- 10 Ibuprophen, tin
- Salt, tin
- Potassium Permanganate, tin
- Sterile Scalpel Blade, tin
- Single edge razor blade, tin

Braided neck cord – The compass, Inova LED, ACR whistle, and Starflash mirror are to be attached to the neck cord and worn around the neck at all times during a survival situation. This leaves the compass readily available for navigation. It also leaves the day/night signal capability instantly accessible during the emergency.

BK-7 Kit Camp

With only the contents of this kit I would have the means to construct an improvised shelter and be able to wrap up in the space blanket inside it. I would have a fire and five liters of treated water, with salt to aid re-hydration in Brazil’s extreme heat. The signals group allows for some sort of signal capability, active and passive with sight and sound, day or night. If I had to walk out I would have a compass and foot care. I chose the Ibuprofen, as it is both a painkiller and anti-inflammatory. I believe the items in this kit will aid in actual survival and are not there just because they are nifty and small.

The other item that I always have belted on at all times is a US Army canteen with steel cup and stove sleeve. The pouch on the canteen carries two bottles of Potable Aqua, a yellow mini-bic lighter, and a small foil packet of KMnO4 as a back-up water purification system. Most of the time I also have my Recta DP-2 compass and a bottle of Bens 100 in a pocket along with some snack food items.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/9697/garliccamp040cv1.jpg

Mac

[tim]

very very very COOL

[Sam]

Very nice. I have the Bk air crew knife (5& half inch blade) Very sturdy knife.
I have seen the Bk knives refinished in Blaze orange, hard to loose the knife that way.
-Sam

[rebel]

Nice. Thanks for the pics too. It's a well thought and experienced set-up.

[chiye tanka]

Pict, love your set-up, and great pics.

[Sarge47]

Like most great products it would seem that the BK-7 knife is no longer available.

http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/becker-bk7-knife/:(

[RangerXanatos]

It is available. They are now made by KaBar. Here is a link to one. There are other places that have them in stock...

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KABK7

[chiye tanka]

Yep! My knife guy has them on order. He's got both neckers, companion, and the entry tool. I've heard that they won't be making the camp knife though.

[Blood Groove]

Wow that's quite impressive. IT must have taken a lot of planning and experience to come up with those few and totally necessasry items!

[Runs With Beer]

Knives are basically up to pers. preference. Some like them fancy, some like them bowie style and then there are the military styles.

I've gone through the phases like most. The big bowie was very attractive but just heavy and really a pain to use. Never been much on the fancy knives and most military styles are for killing rather than survival.

In the USMC many Marines I was with carried the Gerber dagger style, awsome knife but in the jungle it was worthless. Then there were the officers who carried the larger bowies, showoffs. I stuck to the good ol Kabar MKII. The knife blade was packerized and was a bit more flexible than the standard black finished brittle blades.

Nowdays I always carry a Gerber folder with the serrated about 2" back of the blade folder. Nice grip, on the belt will usually find the new model Kabar. Unless I'm doing a period trek then it's this old Union cutlery folder and a slightly larger steak knife made from an old file.

Either way, there is always a large palm piece of flint and a small hooked piece of flint that works much better than knives for skinning game.

Just my buck two fifty.

YOU have to love the Kabar!

[primeelite]

I have been out camping with someone who had one of these before. It seemed to work a lot better than I thought but still it can't hold up against a good survival knife. But yeah if someone is on a budget or especially needs a backup knife to throw in their backpack before they head out its not bad.

[FVR]

I have a few old sawzaw blades, a bit heftier than hacksaw blades. May just take one to the grinder this week.

[Dragonfyre]

Pretty nifty little knife. I like to carry knives in my pack, on my person....basically my thought is, one is good but more is better. I feel the same way with firestarters too!

[canid]

hey, not too bad. i've since started using small reciprocating saw bladed to make wood-carving knives and gouges.

[tfisher]

I used to make these when I was a kid(yes it has been awhile) and my parents would not let me have a knife. we made several and would hide them in the woods next to a river so we could go fishing when we skipped school.

[doug1980]

I just made one tonight. Was a bit harder than I thought. Might of helped if I had the right tools for the job though.

[sgtdraino]

Looks pretty neat. I just have one question...

If you lash it to a pole with some string, wouldn't the saw teeth cut the string?

[crashdive123]

Looks pretty neat. I just have one question...

If you lash it to a pole with some string, wouldn't the saw teeth cut the string?

Probably not, since it would be rigid and not moving back and forth (sawing) across your bindings. If you are concerned though, there are several things you can do. When you make one grind a portion of the saw edge so that it is smooth. Attach scales to it (I use duct tape). But, I don't think it would be a problem leaving it alone.

[Ameriborn]

RAT cutlery makes some beautiful blades, as you all likely know.

I was just wondering, do any of you think they will have an RC-7 soon? Of course, I mean after the Izula hype is down, and the RC-5 SERE is out.

I mean, RC-3, RC-4, RC-5 SERE, RC-6 .. what is next an RC-7? Or and RC-2?

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[Leighman]

Hey, all.

New to this site (great info, BTW) but a veteran knife user/collector.
While we all have a personal preference as to what we like/dislike in a field knife (fixed and folder) I wanted to share some of my "less than stellar" performers over the last 10-15 years.

Please note, this is not intended to bash ANY company/manufacturer's products, just my own experiences.

Fixed blade:
Ontario Spec-Plus Bolo knife (no longer made). Rubber handle, razor sharp out of the box, so-so quality leather and thin cordura sheath. While clearing very light brush the blade chipped after striking a 2-2 1/2 inch green sapling. The chip itself was rather large (half the diameter of a dime and about 3 inches from the tip) and the exposed steel (1095, I think) looked very sintered and grainy. Poor heat treat? Ontario replaced it free of charge (kudos to them). The replacement was no better with similar (but smaller) chipping to the edge.

Buck dive type knife (cannot recall model) but it was copied after a custom maker's design. Full-tang, black plastic scales, kydex sheath. Top of blade featured a chisel type grind (dull) that was about useless. The blunt pointed blade had partial serrations and was very, very difficult to sharpen (Lansky). overall, too beefy and specialized for outdoor applications (at least for me).

Early production CS (Carbon V) Recon Tanto. Loved that darn thing but batoning very seasoned oak (using a small log as the baton, no hammer or hatchet) resulted in a wicked failure; 1 1/2+ inch of the tip snapped clean off! The weather was extremely cold (-5) but still I expected more. I did not contact CS over the matter.

Folders:
Emerson tanto type blade (not sure of the model). Liner lock failed while cutting through frozen garden hose. Luckily I was wearing heavy duty gloves but with the twisting motion I may have somehow disengaged the liner lock but could not figure out how (?).

Gerber Paraframe. While in the closed position I easily nicked my finger while retrieving it from my pocket. Cutouts in the frame was just plain poorly designed.

Buck Odyssy (tip up carry) would open in pocket enough to injure your fingers upon removal.

S&W...owned one, I'll say no more just poor workmanship overall.

Benchmade D2 Griptilian (from Cabela's). Loved this one but experienced blade edge chipping while cutting off the thin aluminum foil on the tops of wine bottles.

Again, not bashing any company just my 0.02 worth with a few of the many knives I've owned/used.

Comments welcomed.

[MCBushbaby]

Anything of those knives in the "camping" aisle, wrapped in that plastic stuff. I bought a couple because they were only a dollar each. While they are great to completely wreck on the trail, the screw holding the folding blade to the handle is loose from day one. I made one into a fixed blade by epoxying the crap outta that screw, and the others I had to continually tighten on the trail.

[chiye tanka]

I've carried CS knives for years, while I've never had a problem, the cold COULD have been the contributing factor there. I contacted Mission knives once and spoke with someone (can't remember name) who told me that most knives become very brittle in extreme cold weather. Thus the reason they offer their knives in titanium, which does not have that problem. Just a little FYI.

[klkak]

[QUOTE=Leighman;88983]Early production CS (Carbon V) Recon Tanto. Loved that darn thing but batoning very seasoned oak (using a small log as the baton, no hammer or hatchet) resulted in a wicked failure; 1 1/2+ inch of the tip snapped clean off! The weather was extremely cold (-5) but still I expected more. I did not contact CS over the matter.

I doubt that -5 temp would have caused the steel to fail. -50 might have. Sounds like your knife just had a poorly tempered blade. Although batoning is an excepted practice I am willing to bet that the manufacture does not recommend it.

I can honestly say that I have never subjected a knife to batoning. Grandpa taught me to always use the right tool for the job.

[Blood Groove]

Although batoning is an excepted practice I am willing to bet that the manufacture does not recommend it.

I can honestly say that I have never subjected a knife to batoning. Grandpa taught me to always use the right tool for the job.[/QUOTE]

For any other knife company I'd agree with you. But Cold Steel really prides there knives on the toughness and they say you can return a blade no matter what with a recipt of purchase. I mean they released a vidio, Solid Proof of them beating the crap out of there knives, stabbing through car doors, and all there other tests, adn they show that they hold up great to it. So in this paticular case, with a Cold Steel knife, I don't think that they'd really mind. I am suprised that the Recon Tanto Broke like that though. There must have been some factory error, becuase I've heared nothing but good things about this knife until now.

[Ole WV Coot]

I have a bunch, use a few especially a SAK and carry a SOG Flash II for "emergencies" but I started making my own several years ago and actually have made better working knives from old saw blades and not that hard to get what you want. I have found the quality of the old name brands going downhill over the years myself.

[Leighman]

I'm not a CS "hater" and I used to really like their knives back in the day (early 1980's) when they offered all of 5-6 different products. They were definitely of excellent quality then but IMO, more than a little hype these days.

I've seen all their videos and was not really impressed only because ANY decently made fixed blade (of comparable length/thickness, of course) should be able to pass all of these tests.

Fortunately, there are comparable offerings these days that are superior to many CS products and in a similar price range (RAT Cutlery for example).

[Leighman]

[QUOTE=klkak;89013I can honestly say that I have never subjected a knife to batoning. Grandpa taught me to always use the right tool for the job.[/QUOTE]

Agreed, a knife doesn't take the place of an axe/hatchet (and the skill associated with using either).

That said, when I take my 2 children hiking to my favorite "fishing hole" for the day, an axe is not on the list of gear and a small fixed blade is the heaviest item I really want to pack.

To date, a convexed Dumpster Mutt has been worth its weight in gold and is currently my "always" fixed blade outdoor knife.

I have also had VERY good experiences with Ontario's RTAK and RAT Cutlery's RAT-3.

[Blood Groove]

I'm not a CS "hater" and I used to really like their knives back in the day (early 1980's) when they offered all of 5-6 different products. They were definitely of excellent quality then but IMO, more than a little hype these days.

I've seen all their videos and was not really impressed only because ANY decently made fixed blade (of comparable length/thickness, of course) should be able to pass all of these tests.

Fortunately, there are comparable offerings these days that are superior to many CS products and in a similar price range (RAT Cutlery for example).

I respectfully disagree that. I do agree that any knife should be able to cut para-cord and things like that, that's just a matter of sharpness, but when they repeatedly run the knives through car doors, and the tips show no signs of damage, I think that's something that most knives cannot do. They also cut copper tube over and over with one part of the Recon tanto (Carbon V) and then the guy shaves his arm with the same part of the knife he was cutting the tube with. They also chop a silver dollar in half and the blade again shows no sign of damage. Now When they stick the knife into the boards and then put all there weight on it, I can see another full tang knife standing up to the abuse just as well, but the knife flex tests are amazing. The Cold Steel Tanto was flexible enough to double over on itself withough breaking! I think that Cold Steel knives are very very high quality knives. I've also heard that RAT knives are high quality, but I've never seen them tested or handled them.

[tonester]

i think rat cutlery and coldsteel are both great knife companies. i have a rc4 and srk and love them both.

[catfish10101]

I will probably get skinned for this but........
Those cheap, almost disposable knives do have a place in our lives!!
I first learned this lesson as a youngster fishing off a pier at my grandfather's place in Grand Isle, Louisiana.
After losing about 3 $20.00 Buck Knives (I was only a kid). I started keeping a couple junk knives in my tackle box. Then found myself looking for them for other reasons. Now, I keep several cheap folding knives in my vehicle, tackle box, boat, and car.
Nothing wrong with having a good knlfe at the ready, but having some cheap ones for use over water, or for abusing, is definitly worth the few bucks you will pay for them.

[klkak]

For any other knife company I'd agree with you. But Cold Steel really prides there knives on the toughness and they say you can return a blade no matter what with a receipt of purchase. I mean they released a video, Solid Proof of them beating the crap out of there knives, stabbing through car doors, and all there other tests, and they show that they hold up great to it. So in this particular case, with a Cold Steel knife, I don't think that they'd really mind. I am surprised that the Recon Tanto Broke like that though. There must have been some factory error, because I've heard nothing but good things about this knife until now.

I sent an email to Cold Steel asking them what they thought of the practice of batoning. The following is the reply I just received from them.


-----Original Message-----
From:[mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 3:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Broken blade

I am wondering. Do you at Cold Steel recommend the practice of batoning a
knife blade through a piece of wood? I have never done it but have seen it
done both in person and on T.V. I think this would be hazardous to the
blade and may break it. I have always use a hatchet for heavy work on wood
but several of my friends feel it is perfectly safe to baton a blade.

I thank you in advance for your insight in this matter.

Reply from Cold Steel:


No it is not safe or recommended. Even though the Cold Steel is built strong you could still break the blade or chip part of the blade or worse, chip a piece of the blade off and have it shoot into your eye!

In a survival situation, would be the only time I would baton a
knife into wood.

Have a good day!

So why take to chance of ruining a good knife. Use the right tool for the job. A knife is meant for cutting. A machette, hatchet or axe is used for chopping wood.

[BigB]

I have used many knives to baton with and learned a few things along the way. Most knife makers will tell you that their knives will never chip on wood, that being said, most times when a blade chips during battoning, it happens on the last cut through the wood when the knife sometimes goes into the ground and hits rocks. Also, never hit the knife with anything but wood, that might be obvious but I've seen guys do it with hammers and chipped the hell out of a good knife.
Now I wouldnt say it works as good as an ax, but to me its easier to carry a folding saw and a knife in the woods rather than an ax.
Anyway, i guess my point is that there is nothing wrong with battoning through wood, just be smart about it.

[Leighman]

So why take to chance of ruining a good knife. Use the right tool for the job. A knife is meant for cutting. A machette, hatchet or axe is used for chopping wood.

Agreed.

However there are a number of quality fixed blades out there that will stand up to the rigors of of any number of unexpected outdoor situations to include batoning and things you wouldn't normally subject a knife to.

Of course, no single cutting tool is the end-all-be-all but when space/weight is at a premium I try to choose a blade that is versatile enough to cover more than just cutting.

To date, I have had excellent success (batoning, chopping, digging, etc) with a Gerber LMF II, RAT, Ontario RTAK series, Bark River, and Scrapyard knives.

Blood Groove, as a "knife nut" I appreciate spirited and good natured debate and while I respect your opinion on CS's proof videos I can't help but find them to be more of a marketing tool than anything else. Of cdourse, I expect nothing less form any company wanting to sell any product.

[Leighman]

Back on topic....

I would like to hear of any similar experiences by members who have used their blades only to find out they didn't measure up (for whatever reason).

[Jericho117]

So im asking my father or mother for a USMC Ka-bar knife, 7 inch blade, leather handle, plain edge non-serrated. I actually have a few questions about this tool. First, I wanted to know if the knife had a full tang, or at least a 3/4 tang, becuase I plan on it being able to take quite a beating when im in the forest. Also, I wanted to know if all USMC leather handle knives are the same, in terms of the blade coatings and how the tang is placed in ( I have seen a ka-bar leather handle knife with a handle that was off centered and above the blade). And lastly, say a ka-bar knife was purchased from Cabelas.com, will it come in the box that has blueprints of the knife itself? Thanks for your time. And also, how heavy is this knife?

[Ole WV Coot]

http://www.usmilitaryknives.com/ka-bar.htm Copy and paste this link.

[FVR]

Kabar info.

They are full tang knives.

They do take a beating.

The leather handles last if you take care of them.

The New Age Kabars are just as tough as the old Kabars, IMHO the keep a better edge.

But, all Kabars are not equal.

Since you are in Va. Beach, if you want to go the old route, get to one of the Army Navy stores around the base and look for a MKII. Again, IMHO, they are the best Kabars ever made, but nowdays, they will cost you and they will be used.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/FrankV/Kabars.jpg

[Jericho117]

Cool, thanks. I will check out that store.

[crashdive123]

If your folks are buy it for you, most Navy Exchanges carry them.

[Gray Wolf]

Jericho, why do you want a 7" blade? But if you're fixed on a 7 incher, then take a look at the BK7 now called the KABAR Becker - Combat Utility Knife, 7" Carbon Steel Blade. It has a full tang and you can put a fishing kit (or whatever) in the handle. This knife is well known for it's toughness. If I remember right, search one of Mac's posts for more details and pic's.

http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=KABK7


Found it for you, it's post 824 here (screen name ("Pict") http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1297&page=42

[klkak]

I truly hope that all the folk who think batoning is a safe and practical practice never find themselves breaking their blade.

[Jericho117]

That ka-bar Becker knife looks pretty good, but for some reason im just liking the leather handled ka-bar knife better. Im not one to care about looks much but I just have to many knives with handles like that. The only reason I want a 7 inch blade is just for two reasons- one is the fact that there are a lot of "security" problems in my area, and a 7 inch blade is more intimidating to threats. Also I need a knife that will act as a draw knife for tillering the belly on my bows, because I can grab the other end of the knife with cloth and just use it so. I could have gotten away with a 5 incher knife, it's just I needed to feel what it's like to use a seven incher. How would a full tang allow room for small fishing and survival equipment, that is wierd but cool.

[Jericho117]

I was thinking about conditioning the leather handle with neats-foot oil from a couple deer hooves I have stashed away, would that be effective?

[Jericho117]

I have seen one in NEX stores, but it has the "iraqi freedom" inscribed into the knife near the blood grove, if all else fails, I will check it out.

[Gray Wolf]

Take a look at the picture, you just unscrew the sides and there are small hollowed out sections.

[Leighman]

I truly hope that all the folk who think batoning is a safe and practical practice never find themselves breaking their blade.

"Safe" is somewhat subjective if you are referring to the personal injury associated with batoning.

More than once, I have sent small shards of steel flying from a steel/iron wedge (using the flat of a splitting maul) while attempting to separate seasoned hickory. This has long been considered common practice and before the advent of gas/diesel splitters it was the ONLY practice. Of course, eye protection is prudent any time the steel meets wood.

From a strictly "practical" standpoint, I would not tempt sacrificing the integrity (much less advocate) the integrity of my "lone" fixed blade while batoning when the use of a simple saw blade (i.e. Leatherman Wave, Victorinox, etc) would accomplish much of the same and with much fewer calories spent!

That said, there are manufacturers whose blades I would not hesitate to push to extremes. Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat being three whose heat treat/blade steel being as tough as anything I've encountered in 30+ years of knife using.

klkak, I am not arguing that a knife (ANY knife of any steel by any maker) can take the place of an axe, hatchet, or machete. You win that debate hands down and I am in full agreement with you on that matter.

My argument is that if a person is forced to rely on "only" one fixed blade knife for something more than slicing chores and bushcraft, the blade that he/she chooses best have a darned good track record for being durable.

In my own experience, Cold Steel hasn't been one of 'em (I've owned/used 7-8 of them over the years, both fixed & folders) and the reason I mentioned my Recon Tanto's shortcomings (and other knives marketed by other companies) in my original posting.

CS produces some "decent" knives but I don't feel they are as durable/dependable as many like-priced competitors out there.

Heck, I'm no "steel junkie"' and I could not tell you the difference between 1095 and SR-77 (until it comes to sharpening, perhaps) but I know what has worked for me and what has not.

I do enjoy "knife debate" and as a "Noob" my intentions are not to offend anyone here. I hope to stay around long enough to learn a lot and maybe contribute a little. ;)

[klkak]

As I said. Use the right tool for the job.

If you advocate anything else then you are not showing good judgment.

[Ole WV Coot]

Had mine since 1965 and I don't think I could replace it or my EK purchased at the same time and both well used for their intended purpose.

[Bladesypher]

Is it just me or do they look painful to use? if you put pressure on the spine wont the hacksaw edge just cut into you? :confused:

[crashdive123]

It's not gonna help out for big cutting tasks, but does a pretty good job for smaller chores. I put duct tape scales on mine to prevent injuries like you are talking about.

[doug1980]

I used some of the 550 cordage to wrap around the handle.

[Leighman]

As I said. Use the right tool for the job.

If you advocate anything else then you are not showing good judgment.

OK then, we'll hopefully agree to disagree.

I've humped the boonies (for both Uncle Same and for my own enjoyment) and guess what? Sometimes "you get what you get and you don't throw a fit."

In a "perfect world" you can pack a hatchet, an axe, a machete, a kukri, a golok...maybe even a chainsaw if you choose.

Unfortunately, every single trek into the boonies does not afford itself such a luxury and you may be forced to use whatever gear (i.e. a simple knife) you have at the time.

In those instances you must rely on tested gear to get you through whatever Mother Nature throws your way.

What I'm "advocating" is quality and tested gear, nothing more and nothing less. If, at the time your best tool is a simple knife, than anything less than the most durable knife you can afford shows a major lack of good judgement.

If simple "good judgement" played a part in every aspect of our lives, not many of us would dare leave the comfort of our cozy warm homes, would we?

[Bladesypher]

both are good ideas. I just ordered 100m of 550 paracord off the net, so I guess the second method will be more convenient if I make one :p

[larmus]

got mine from my uncle, he used his in northern NY in the mountains during hunting season. nice blade, a little pitted from age but holds an edge like none other... the handle had loosend so i added another leather circle and it tightened up the grip... one of my main carry knives for my gear...

[klkak]

Everything you say on here is read by thousands of people. Some of them don't know any better, so they take what you say literally. The information you provide must be sound. If not, it could at the least discourage someone. At the worst it could get them hurt or killed. That's not what we're here for.

So what I'm asking is not to encourage using anything other then the correct tool for the job. Teach the right way the first time, every time. Let the less knowledgeable folks figure out the shortcuts on their own.

You know what I'm saying is right, so any further argument on your part is a sign of immaturity.

[Beans]

I was issued my K-BAR IN 1961. A lot of knives can do some things better then a K-BAR.

However A K-BAR does everything "Good Enough"

Remember that a K-Bar style knife is not a K-BAR

Anything that lists/uses the word, 'TYPE' or STYLE" is just a copy and usually does not meet the orginial specs.

ONTARIO and CAMILLUS also made issued knives that were clones of the K-Bar. They are just as good and meet orginial specs.

[Sarge47]

I was issued my K-BAR IN 1961. A lot of knives can do some things better then a K-BAR.

However A K-BAR does everything "Good Enough"

Remember that a K-Bar style knife is not a K-BAR

Anything that lists/uses the word, 'TYPE' or STYLE" is just a copy and usually does not meet the orginial specs.

ONTARIO and CAMILLUS also made issued knives that were clones of the K-Bar. They are just as good and meet orginial specs.
Great info! So's how about hiking over to the "intro" section & enlightening the rest of us as to who you are, experience, etc.? Sounds like it could be interesting!:D:cool:

[Beans]

Great info! So's how about hiking over to the "intro" section & enlightening the rest of us as to who you are, experience, etc.? Sounds like it could be interesting!

AS you requested, it is done.

[Jericho117]

Is the tang on the Ka-bar leather handled small or big enough to were I can put on a makeshift handle if it breaks?

[Ole WV Coot]

Since I can break the handle out of a crowbar and I travel long range on an ATV I carry the right tool for the purpose intended. Now at home and make my own knives anyway I always have a few blades I have banged with a hammer, rock or club and broke a few. None of these blades are polished or even a good handle, but they last. "Pat Pat on Back" but I wouldn't brag about the temper.

[Ole WV Coot]

hey, not too bad. i've since started using small reciprocating saw bladed to make wood-carving knives and gouges.

Think I posted somewhere before. Buy cut nails different sizes and drive into a dowel or homemade handle and shape on grinder keeping cool with water. Those nails are tempered and will hold a good edge for knives or chisels even gouges for wood carving. I use them for carving.

[crashdive123]

Think I posted somewhere before. Buy cut nails different sizes and drive into a dowel or homemade handle and shape on grinder keeping cool with water. Those nails are tempered and will hold a good edge for knives or chisels even gouges for wood carving. I use them for carving.

I've taken your advice, and they work as advertised. Thanks.

[Blood Groove]

I sent an email to Cold Steel asking them what they thought of the practice of batoning. The following is the reply I just received from them.



Reply from Cold Steel:



So why take to chance of ruining a good knife. Use the right tool for the job. A knife is meant for cutting. A machette, hatchet or axe is used for chopping wood.

WOW! Man that really comes as a suprise to me. I guess they don't recomend it, although tehy kind of controdict themselves by running the knives through doors, and chopping 2x4s in their video. Well even thought they don't reccomend batoning, I know that their knives could stand up to it. I agree in having the right tool for the job ,as you said, but when you don't have the right tool, and the job's still there you can use your knife:D

[MCBushbaby]

I batonned ironwood, pine, maple, oak (I think), and various other trees native to the great lakes area and never once was I worried about any park of my SRK breaking. I'm sure their email was just to prevent liability. If they said, "Yea, go ahead and whack away! We gaurantee that blade won't break and smack you in the eyeeeohhhhcrap!" *lawsuit*

[Blood Groove]

I batonned ironwood, pine, maple, oak (I think), and various other trees native to the great lakes area and never once was I worried about any park of my SRK breaking. I'm sure their email was just to prevent liability. If they said, "Yea, go ahead and whack away! We gaurantee that blade won't break and smack you in the eyeeeohhhhcrap!" *lawsuit*

That's kind of what I was thinking. Especially when they said a part of the balde could hit you in the eye. Lol

[Blood Groove]

No, the tang on the Ka-bar is what they call a stick tang, which means that the blade kind of bottle-necks into a smaller stick of metal once it enters the handle. The tang is only about 6/16th of an inch wide and 3/16ths of an inch thick. It's quite small, That's why if a Ka-bar Breaks (and it won't unless you intensly abuse it) it'll break at the Blade/ handle junction. But the probability of you having to replace the handle is very low IMO. I've done everything with my Ka-bar. Hammering tent spikes, breaking glass, pounding nails, batoning and lots of throwing. These are all things that would loosen the handles on lower quaility knives, but the Ka-bar holds up amazingly to all this. My handle isn't the least bit loose. And as for your question about the box with the blue-prints on it. I'm quite sure that if you buy it from Cabellas it will come with that box. Indact I'm really really amost positive. I know that mine came with the box, and I'm pretty sure I got it from Cabellas. The Ka-bar is an amazing knife for all applications, and I'm sure that you will be very pleased with one.

[Gray Wolf]

I use the tool rubber dip (for handles), 2 t0 3 dips where you want the handle, works great.

[crashdive123]

I use the tool rubber dip (for handles), 2 t0 3 dips where you want the handle, works great.

I forgot all about tool dip. I have a couple of cans laying around - thanks.

[Leighman]

You know what I'm saying is right, so any further argument on your part is a sign of immaturity.

It is not a matter of being "right."
You simply have a different opinion.

A failure to discuss the possibilites than one might NOT have the correct "tool for the job" in EVERY single wilderness/survival scenario is a sign of immaturity.

I am glad you are prepared for every possible emergency there is. I am not and the reason I posted my own non-scientific experiences in the first place.

Did you even read my posts?

I did not advocate anyone run outside and begin batoning wood!
I DID advocate that if forced to rely on ONE knife (not a hatchet, not an axe, not a machete...) that it be exceptionally durable and sturdy.

Back on topic, once again and I won't mention the "B" word.

Anyone out there have any blades that didn't make the cut (so to speak)?

[Leighman]

That's kind of what I was thinking. Especially when they said a part of the balde could hit you in the eye. Lol

Surprisingly (in today's lawsuit-crazed society), there are a few knife manufacturers that offer to repair and/or replace their knives "no matter what!"

From what I've read, the Gerber LMF II has been really shining in the Sand Box and has taken on a multitude of combat-oriented tasks (hammering, prying, and cutting things a little harder than wood) with no failures.

I guess when the bullets are flying, the "right tool for the job" is the one you have at the time, huh? ;)

[MCBushbaby]

I can vouch for Gerber. Friend and I jabbed, pried and tore a softball-sized burl from a pine tree's root using a gerber folder. Only bent it a little bit when we were getting disgusted at the holding power of that damn wart

[Ole WV Coot]

Surprisingly (in today's lawsuit-crazed society), there are a few knife manufacturers that offer to repair and/or replace their knives "no matter what!"

From what I've read, the Gerber LMF II has been really shining in the Sand Box and has taken on a multitude of combat-oriented tasks (hammering, prying, and cutting things a little harder than wood) with no failures.

I guess when the bullets are flying, the "right tool for the job" is the one you have at the time, huh? ;)

You've got that right. When I was a kid everyone carried a Case XX pocket knife and except for youngsters nobody bothered carrying a fixed blade. You did everything that swam, walked or flew with one pocket knife that lasted for many years, sharpened until the blades were gone. The only fixed blades were Old Hickory butcher knives always sharpened well.

[Leighman]

Gerber knives are definitely a "mixed" bag as some are very good while others (usually the China made imports) can be iffy at best.

Their LMF II is quite stout but a bit heavier than I prefer for woods carry.
The sheath is equally as solid and the retention is very secure.

Some folks don't like serrations (me included) but overall, I would rate the knife's durability as a 8.5 or 9 (scale of 1-10).

For the asking price, it's a heck of a heavy-duty knife.

[Leighman]

When I was a kid everyone carried a Case XX pocket knife


I recall mine was a Buck 3-bladed stockman type....it went everywhere I went, including school (in those days)!

Then one year my uncle (living in Eurpoe at the time) sent me my first Victorinox Swiss Armk Knife; a "Huntsman" model. The saw blade was the envy of all my friends.

Talk about sharpening a blade until there was nothing left!!! :D

[Leighman]

One I forgot....an early production Schrade Extreme Survival fixed blade design. The saw teeth on the spine were pretty useless and the blade appeared to be little more than a polished/chromed bayonet (i.e. M7).
the butt end incorporated a horrid claw hammer and the "survival" sheath was flimsily made. Not one my better purchases.

[Leighman]

Check out www.knifetests.com
Keep in mind, this guy takes things to extremes with regard to "abuse."

[Jericho117]

Thanks for all the info. guys. I just wanted to learn some things from people with hands-on experience with knives.

[tonester]

before i really knew anything about good knives, i went to big5 and bought a smith and wesson folder for like 50$. i thought it was the coolest knife. a week later the stupid thing started falling apart! the screws that held the pocket clip on all fell off, the locking mechanism started getting weak and there started to be a lot of blade play, and the blade didnt stay sharp very long. thats what got me into learning about good knife makers...i dont want to be carrying a crappy knife that can fall apart at any moment while im on the job.

[klkak]

Do as you choose.

[Blood Groove]

Surprisingly (in today's lawsuit-crazed society), there are a few knife manufacturers that offer to repair and/or replace their knives "no matter what!"

From what I've read, the Gerber LMF II has been really shining in the Sand Box and has taken on a multitude of combat-oriented tasks (hammering, prying, and cutting things a little harder than wood) with no failures.

I guess when the bullets are flying, the "right tool for the job" is the one you have at the time, huh? ;)

Yes I'd definitely agree with you there. I'd really like to have an LMF II they do look amazing. The most interresting thing about the knife I think is how it's insulated from electricity. I heared a story about a guy who cut through the hot-wires of a building and was fine doing it! But I've also heared that the handle wears out though. I've never had any experience using the 12C27 steel it's made of, but it's supposed to be good.

[doug1980]

I bought the 6" SRK knife in Kuwait on my way to Iraq in 2007. Didn't use it much but when it was strapped to my leg the TCN's (Third Country Nationals) seen it they said it was intimidating. So it served that purpose at least.

[Jericho117]

Iv'e just learned a bit about stick tangs on knives. Is the stick tang a single component or piece, or a bunch of collpsable pieces fit together?

[Jericho117]

ONE MORE question, I just need to know this. Is the Ka-bar knife a single piece of metal from tip to butt cap? No glues or anything, just one piece? I know that it is full tang but I have little experience with knives and I was a bit confused as to if the ka-bar was one single piece, even with the stick tang.

[Leighman]

Yes I'd definitely agree with you there. I'd really like to have an LMF II they do look amazing. The most interresting thing about the knife I think is how it's insulated from electricity. I heared a story about a guy who cut through the hot-wires of a building and was fine doing it! But I've also heared that the handle wears out though. I've never had any experience using the 12C27 steel it's made of, but it's supposed to be good.

The previosuly mentioned site(www.knifetests.com) puts a Gerber LMF II to the test and it performed quite well.

Again, this fellow ("Noss") completely destroys the knives and while not really a scientific approach, he shows how much abuse certain types of knives can withstand before they eventually fail.

Oddly enough (or not), some very very inexpensive knives have outperformed some of the higher end versions (i.e. Chris Reeves).

[backtobasics]

Check out www.knifetests.com
Keep in mind, this guy takes things to extremes with regard to "abuse."


Cool site. I was surprised to see how well the USAF pilot knife did, thats the knife i use. It out did the USMC Ka-Bar.

[Leighman]

before i really knew anything about good knives, i went to big5 and bought a smith and wesson folder for like 50$. i thought it was the coolest knife. a week later the stupid thing started falling apart! the screws that held the pocket clip on all fell off, the locking mechanism started getting weak and there started to be a lot of blade play, and the blade didnt stay sharp very long. thats what got me into learning about good knife makers...i dont want to be carrying a crappy knife that can fall apart at any moment while im on the job.

Same here with S&W. Fortunately, I learned early on (before sinking too much $$$ into my hobby) that the majority of knives made by gun manufacturers should generally be avoided.

Of course, there are always exceptions, such as Glock's field knife. It's not the sharpest out of the box but for $30 it's not too bad, either. Definitely makes for a good trunk or "second" knife.

IIC, some H&K-marked folders were made by Benchmade. Tough to go wrong there, as well.

[Beans]

ONE MORE question, I just need to know this. Is the Ka-bar knife a single piece of metal from tip to butt cap? No glues or anything, just one piece? I know that it is full tang but I have little experience with knives and I was a bit confused as to if the ka-bar was one single piece, even with the stick tang.

http://www.geocities.com/heartland/6350/kbar.htm


The leather handle of the KA-BAR Fighting Knife is formed by stacking 22 slotted genuine cowhide leather discs over the rectangular tang and then compressing them under great pressure to turn the discs into a solid unit - so solid in fact, it resists absorbing moisture or contamination of any kind and is highly shock proof. With the leather discs in place and still under pressure they are locked together by topping them off with a 3/8" solid steel pommel pinned right through the tang from side to side. With this accomplished the knife is assembled into one virtually indestructible piece and ready for the finishing operations of adding five grooves around the handle for a comfortable, slip resistant grip, polishing the leather and finally hand sharpening and honing the blade to a razor edge. The finished knife is then a truly battle-ready KA-BAR.



Is the tang on the Ka-bar leather handled small or big enough to were I can put on a makeshift handle if it breaks?

Break a Ka-Bar??? You must be a VERY manly man to break a Ka-Bar.

I have dug foxholes, broken banding staps on pallets of C -rations, ammo and other gear, broken the wire on cases of C-rations, open C-rations cans, built shelters, pounded tent pegs. skinned and cleaned animals & fish, Cut comm wire, built snares and fish traps and I haven't broken mine yet. It need sharpened several times but Broken Not yet.

[Leighman]

Iv'e just learned a bit about stick tangs on knives. Is the stick tang a single component or piece, or a bunch of collpsable pieces fit together?

I think it is one-piece, just not near the width of the blade itself.

If you look closely at the butt/pommel, you will se the rectangular size of the tang (pretty small). You can also see where it is "pinned" if looking on the rounded side of the butt itself.

While Ka-bar's have a rich & deserved combat history, I think knife making has evolved so much since WWII (i.e. blade steels, thicker tangs, grinds, handle composition, etc) that they may be a bit outdated to some.

That said, I've never been able to "kill" a Ka-bar and once a proper convex edge is added, they make for a good all-around slicer and a so-so chopper.

I say "so-so chopper" only because thel overall weight of the knife limits the amout of the blade's chopping efficiency; that's probably why Uncle Sam issued an Ontario made machete! ;)

[Leighman]

Coll site. I was surprised to see how well the USAF pilot knife did, thats the knife i use. It out did the USMC Ka-Bar.

That and the fact that "some" $20 Chinese imports outperformed some very high-end blades!

Of course, there are many "kinfe snobs" out there (just like "gun snobs" in the shooting community) who bash the guy's techniques but it's interesting to see how certain brands/models hold up (and don't) when it comes to complete & total destruction.

Lastly, better HIS knives than MINE! :D

[Pal334]

My best knifes: Got a USAF Survival Knife issued by the Air Force while in Thailand in the early70's http://www.bestglide.com/AF_Survival_Knife_Info.html) and it served with me up to a year ago, in the humid jungles, the big sand box and everywhere in between. It is beat up, chipped but retains its edge and is easily sharpened . Not bad for a 30 plus year old knife. It now resides on my "love me wall" in my den. My constant companion for at least as long has been my pocket knife, a two bladed Barlow brand, the blade is somewhat thinned by years of sharpening, one of the handle pieces is broken, but it is still ticking. It has been used as a screw driver, can opener, gaping spark plugs and even occasionally as a pocket knife :)Here is a site for the type, of course mine is US made, not China as indicated in the site http://www.knifecountryusa.com/store/product/111158.111187/magnum-knives-sc110-bonsai-barlow-pocket-knife-with-jigged-red-bone-handles.html

I just try to keep things simple:D

[nell67]

Sharp looking knife you have there PAL.

[Pal334]

Cool site. I was surprised to see how well the USAF pilot knife did, thats the knife i use. It out did the USMC Ka-Bar.

I just wrote a little on the forum "Not So Good Knives" About the USAF knife, have had one for 30 plus years and all good experiences.

[Jericho117]

That is very reassuring.

[Pal334]

Nell: Just wish mine were still that "purty". But they have aged gracefully (like me :eek:)

[nell67]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder,eh Pal? And since you be-holding that knife,it's beautiful right?:)

[Pal334]

Well put. I "beholding" them forever

[FVR]

Along with Bean's chores with his Kabar, mine doubled as a diving knife, has chiselled scallops off rocks, chopped wood like an ax, has won one knife throwing contest, and has never let me down. I bought it from a Navy guy when I was 13 years old.

The only reason I do not use it anymore, it's a collectors item now and I want to hand it down to my son. The knife accompanied me through my early hunting years, my USMC years, it has been around the world, wet in the Atlantic, Pacific, swamps of Panama, and the waters off Oki.

Hands down, you can not go wrong.

[Ole WV Coot]

FVR is right on. I guess the AF knife is ok, I have one and don't care for it, personal preference. I have an Ontario style Kabar and it bent easily at the guard. My retired Kabar is 45yrs old and is like a razor including the false edge. It has saved my bacon and helped fry it. The only treatment the leather handle has had is sweat, dirt and a little blood and I know it's a compromise and not a fighter, but nobody told me so it worked fine, not as good as my EK fighter, also 45yrs old and retired but it just feels right in my hand and never let me down.

[backtobasics]

I've never owned a Ka-Bar and many here swear by them. They are good looking knives. I'll probably end up getting one. One more knife can't hurt, right? I just never thought i needed a knife with a blade over 5 inches, but hay, I'll give it a try. Maybe I'm missing out on something.

[Leighman]

I've never owned a Ka-Bar and many here swear by them. They are good looking knives. I'll probably end up getting one. One more knife can't hurt, right? I just never thought i needed a knife with a blade over 5 inches, but hay, I'll give it a try. Maybe I'm missing out on something.

The "Next Generation" Ka-Bars are not as traditional in appearance as the orginal leather handle/1095 carbon steel versions but have some features that some prefer.

A single guard is the best improvement I've seen. if you ain't goin' toe-to-toe with the enemy in a knife fight, the top part of the guard is pretty useless and many fans of the Ka-Bar simply grind off the top guard.

The butt/pommel (while still flat) has a lanyard hole (important to some, not so much to others).

Some type of black semi-hard rubber Kraton type handle as opposed to the leather washers.

Partially serrated (and plain) blade styles are available.

Some type of stainless blade (440A?). I'll take to easy-to-sharpen 1095 any day.

Sheath options of leather, thermopalstic kydex type, and nylon. The Nylon is made by Eagle (I think) and VERY well constructed.

There may be a few more minor differences but these readily came to mind.

Having owned and used both I would take the original Ka-Bar and just upgrade to a better quality sheath/scabbard for it.

[Gray Wolf]

On the www.knifetests.com, The Scrap Yard Knife Company's "Scrapper 6" (with a 6 1/2" blade) had the highest rating of all the knives tested! (only $99.95) It's a Busse brother knife Company. Below is the info.

Scrapper 6

The Scrapper 6 serves as the debut model of the Scrap Yard line. It features SR-77 steel, which is a slightly modified version of S-7 tool steel hardened to 57-59 Rc. S-7 is commonly used in jackhammer bits and is well known for its enormous toughness. Through the use of deep cryogenics and our proprietary heat-treating protocol we are able to wring the maximum performance out of this incredibly tough tool steel.
Cost $99.95

The Scrapper 6 features a 6 1/2" long blade and near full-length tang construction. The end of the tang is less than 1/4" from the butt of the handle. The thicker than 1/4" blade (.275" thick) features a full-height flat ground bevel with a convex edge adding to the strength and cutting power of this abuse loving American made blade. The exclusive, non-hygroscopic Resiprene C handles have been proven in the harshest combat conditions around the globe. With an overall length of 11 1/2" the Scrapper 6 is the perfect sized blade for day campers, combat professionals, and those who choose to venture into the uncharted wilderness.

No detail has been overlooked in the construction and design of the Scrapper 6. These details include all radiused corners at the blade handle juncture, which, although covered by the handle and unseen by the user/abuser, greatly increases the overall strength of the Scrapper 6 at the point where most other knives can fail under extreme conditions. Other details include a radiused "plunge" at the beginning of the blade bevel and a generous sized choil for ease of choking up on the blade. The choil also facilitates ease of re-sharpening along the entire edge without bumping into the plunge of the bevel. The black coating is both non-reflective and protective against the elements.

The Scrapper 6 is built like a tank and is far tougher than most every other blade on the market today.

Specs at a glance:

Steel: SR-77
Hardness: 58 - 60 Rc
Handle: Resiprene C
Thickness: .275 (Between 1/4" & 5/16")
Blade Length: 6.5"
Overall Length: 11.5"

It's a great knife for THAT price!
http://www.scrapyardknives.com/intro.htm

[Leighman]

ANY knife made by Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat will outperform just about any production knife out there, not my opinion but a generally recognized fact; hence their fierce and loyal following.

I have the Scrapyard "Dumpster Mutt" (blade a bit shorter than a Scapper, also in SR-77) and have found it be as durable (if not more so) than the majority of the higher end production knives on the market.

Good or bad, there is somewhat of a cult following and finding one available for the MSRP can be tricky at times as the company produces certain models in small batches.

[SARKY]

I've had my dads Ka-Bar for some 40 years now and it isn't a bad knife but knives have come a long way since the Ka-bars were designed. I also had 20 years in the military carrying a pilots knife either in my SV-2 (avaitors survival vest) or in the field as a survival instructor. I found it so wanting that I carried a Benchmade Bushmaster in my SV-2 as well as the pilots knife. I wound up trading the pilots knife for a mora knife. I think I got the better part of that deal. As to the Ka-Bar's tang, I'm not sure if it is one piece, but most rod tang knives have the tang welded to the blade. The Ka-Bar falls into the general catagory of Bowie as far as blade design. It was designed to do everything good enough (from fight to survival) . If i wanted a fighting knife (I don't know why I would, there are no winners in a knife fight, only 2 badly bleeding losers) there are plenty knives designed for that. If you want a utilitarian (survival)knife there are plenty of those on the market. Decide what you really need or want the knife to do for you and then decide.

[Tuckahoe]

Just so you will know there are bunches of knock off copies around most surplus stores.

[chiye tanka]

GW, we've got to get together so I can get a couple of those knives.

[Gray Wolf]

You're right, with everything that's gone on the past month, I forgot.... sorry :o

[Leighman]

Just so you will know there are bunches of knock off copies around most surplus stores.

Luckily, copies are pretty easy to spot.
The Marine combat knife is currently made by Ka-Bar, Ontario, Camillus (presently out of business), and some by Case (base of blade is marked).

If by chance, you happen to "find" a Ka-Bar marked on the crossguard (blade side and marked either Ka-Bar or Camillus, designated as USN, MK II), snatch it up as these are THE real deal from WWII and somewhat collectable.

Many of the WWII origianls (specifically Camillus) came with a gray plastic/fiber scabbard (looks like a bayonet sheath) with metal throat and gray canvas belt hanger.

The USAF/USN Pilot's Survival Knife is presently made by Ontario (possibly older ones by Camillus) and the manufacturer/production date (or date of gov contract) is marked in very small letters/numbers on the flat of the pommel nutt.

[hoosierarcher]

Could someone please tell me what the weird notch on the blade, near the handle, is for? Is it for striking flints to make fire?

A Gurkha Soldier has an avowed spiritual connection to his kukri. A combat kukri is NEVER to be drawn from the sheath except to draw blood. If a Gurkha draws his kukri and then does not draw the blood of an enemy he must draw his own blood with it that "weird notch on the blade" is there so he can puncture his own thumb and "feed" his kukri enough blood that it will not curse him.

[MCBushbaby]

Can you squash a blood-bloated mosquito with your kukri? Would that satisfy it's metalic bloodlust?

[chiangmaimav]

A very nice kukri. I had an old one I bought in a street market which although cheap lasted quite a long time despite rough usage. It is difficult here to obtain custom made high quality knives due to high shipping costs and customs regulations. However, parangs and kukri-style knives are very, very popular here and many local blacksmiths make them and they are very cheap so I just replace them when they wear out.

[crashdive123]

A Gurkha Soldier has an avowed spiritual connection to his kukri. A combat kukri is NEVER to be drawn from the sheath except to draw blood. If a Gurkha draws his kukri and then does not draw the blood of an enemy he must draw his own blood with it that "weird notch on the blade" is there so he can puncture his own thumb and "feed" his kukri enough blood that it will not curse him.

Have never heard or read of the "must draw blood" explanation before. Not disputing it, just have never read or heard of it. Most explanations that I have researched are similar to this one.

From Khukrihouse online:


The most appealing and distinctive part of the khukuri is the notch or “Cho” cut into the blade directly in front of the grip and the bolster. The Cho or “Kaudi” in Nepalese that separates the khukuri from the world of knives arouses much interest because of its unique shape and utility objectives. Practically the notch works as a blood dipper to prevent the blood or fluid from going towards the handle so that firm grip can be maintained throughout the execution and also as a stopper to stop Chakmak (sharpener) from reaching the handle area when sharpening while running down the edge of the khukuri blade. Similarly the notch also has religious significance as it signifies the Hindu fertility symbol (OM) and represents the sacred cow’s hoof (as cow is worshipped in Nepal).It is also believed to have been developed as a device for catching and neutralizing an enemy blade in close combat. However, myths like notch being a target device to capture an enemy’s sight within it and hurl the blade like a boomera ng to snick of his head is not true as khukuri is never thrown. As well the notch being a can opener or rest curvature for index finger of the using hand while slicing are all fictitious. The first khukuri blade ever known to the modern mankind had the Cho and some drawings found in an Indian temple around 600AD also depict it in the blade. Almost all khukuri that originated in the past had the legendary notch and even the modern ones continue to carry this distinctive tradition.

[sgtdraino]

The New Age Kabars are just as tough as the old Kabars, IMHO the keep a better edge.

But, all Kabars are not equal.


Luckily, copies are pretty easy to spot.
The Marine combat knife is currently made by Ka-Bar, Ontario, Camillus (presently out of business), and some by Case (base of blade is marked).

If by chance, you happen to "find" a Ka-Bar marked on the crossguard (blade side and marked either Ka-Bar or Camillus, designated as USN, MK II), snatch it up as these are THE real deal from WWII and somewhat collectable.

With Kabars currently being made by several different companies, which of the current-production ones do you think comes closest to meeting or exceding the quality of the original Mk II?

[Leighman]

With Kabars currently being made by several different companies, which of the current-production ones do you think comes closest to meeting or exceding the quality of the original Mk II?

In comparison (WW II era USN MK II Camillus vs current Ka-Bar) it is pretty much of a toss up.

The old Camillus' blade/guard/butt appears to be parkerzied while the newer Ka-bar seems more of a painted/baked-on black finish.

[Pal334]

Here is a pic of my efforts to date.
The one at the top is a fine toothed hacksaw blade. Teeth are small, so I blunted them a bit and left in place. I have roughed in a edge with my bench grinder. Later I will use fine sand paper on my sander and see how the edge comes up. I have used three coats of the rubber handle stuff. Looks like it will be a handy little thing.
The middle one is a work in process, it is a sawz all blade, (a Rescue blade) so is a bit larger and and thicker than my other used sawz all blades. I left the blade shape basicaly the same as the original blade,I drilled on extra hole near the tang for fitting some sort of handle. Again, I just rounded over the the saw teeth.
While I was puttering around looking for more old blades, I found the blade holder that is at the bottom of the picture. I am going to experiment with other hack saw blades using this as the handle. Seems it would be a quick expedient blade holder.

[klkak]

A couple years ago I retired my issue K-Bar and bought one of the new K-Bar D-2 extreme. Probably the last K-Bar I'll ever need.

[Sarge47]

I was very surprised to see that the "Cheaper Than Dirt Hard-Use Knife did so well on Knife Tests "knife test"! (4.5) The knife sells for about 10 bucks but is made with 440 steel. There's 3 different blade types & it's your choice! According to the "users reviews" they were mixed with the majority in favor of the knife as a good "stand-by". If all you can afford is $10 then this might be a pretty good choice for an outdoor knife, unless you prefer the Mora.:cool: If you can afford more I'd still suggest a Buck, Gerber, or Ka-Bar, in the lower-price range.:cool:

[hoosierarcher]

I think If I made one I'd grind down the teeth of the saw at least in the handle area. This reminded me of something a friend of mine does. He gets old industrial bandsaw blades out of the shop dumpsters and stamps trade point broadheads out of them. They rockwell test about 62C or so and hold an edge like a shark tooth when sharpened on a japanese water stone. I think I'll try making some of these and sell them on eBay for .99 or so.

[SARKY]

Has anyone checked out the ColdSteel seconds shop? Go to the Cold Steel web site and then find their seconds shop... some really good deals can be had there.

[davef]

Jericho, why do you want a 7" blade? But if you're fixed on a 7 incher, then take a look at the BK7 now called the KABAR Becker - Combat Utility Knife, 7" Carbon Steel Blade. It has a full tang and you can put a fishing kit (or whatever) in the handle. This knife is well known for it's toughness. If I remember right, search one of Mac's posts for more details and pic's.



Gray Wolf, those new Beckers are phenominal!
Ethan Becker just snagged a sub forum over on the Bladeforums site.
Lots of great posts in it. Lots of great pictures too.


Jericho, you should have a knife like this. It's a beast!
This is my Becker BK9. Have had it for a number of years now.
It's as tough as nails this one.
Great knife.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/d_filgate/IMG_0975.jpg

[davef]

The Scrapper 6 serves as the debut model of the Scrap Yard line. It features SR-77 steel, which is a slightly modified version of S-7 tool steel hardened to 57-59 Rc. S-7 is commonly used in jackhammer bits and is well known for its enormous toughness. Through the use of deep cryogenics and our proprietary heat-treating protocol we are able to wring the maximum performance out of this incredibly tough tool steel.
Cost $99.95


They ain't $99.95 anymore. You can't order them from the company as they
only do limited runs. Their latest was a 7 inch version of the
Scrapper 6 called Son of Dogfather. I was lucky to get one, and should
have it around the first week of January.

Regarding the costs, the Scrapper can only be obtained now through the
secondary markets, and they fetch a premium price. I paid almost $200.00
for mine.
Here it is with relatives (Ratweiler, Scrapper, Ratmandu, Scrapyard DMDC,
Swamprat HCLE, and Busse AD)
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/d_filgate/Knife---Busse-kin-1.jpg

Also, a picture of the SOD that I have coming
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/d_filgate/SODBlack31-1.jpg

[Sarge47]

1st, since this thread has gone way "off-topic" & over into a general knife discussion it has been moved to the appropriate "sticky".

2nd, Anybody who's read anything I've written on my knife suggestions may remember these:

My 3 requirements for a good outdoor "fixed-blade" knife:

1.) It must have a "full-tang."

2.) It must have a "Rockwell-hardness" rating between 56 to 58.

3.) It must never exceed $120 in price...& that price will mean it's a fan-
tastic price!

In other words, I don't care how good the knife is reputed to be, $200 is way out of line, IMO:eek:. If I was going to shell out big bucks for a knife I'd think about the Bear Grylls Bailey Knife!:rolleyes: The bottom line is that any good quality knife can get you buy if you treat it like any other quality tool...with tender loving care. Note that even the Old Coot STILL has his original Ka-Bar!:D:cool:

[davef]

1.) It must have a "full-tang."

2.) It must have a "Rockwell-hardness" rating between 56 to 58.

3.) It must never exceed $120 in price...& that price will mean it's a fan-
tastic price!

In other words, I don't care how good the knife is reputed to be, $200 is way out of line, IMO:eek:. If I was going to shell out big bucks for a knife I'd think about the Bear Grylls Bailey Knife!:rolleyes: The bottom line is that any good quality knife can get you buy if you treat it like any other quality tool...with tender loving care. Note that even the Old Coot STILL has his original Ka-Bar!:D:cool:

The reason that it cost almost $200 is because I live in Canada, and had to
pay the exchange on both the knife and the bloody shipping. If I'd been
living in the U.S., I would have gotten it for far less. Kinda hard to swallow
my country's dollar being worth only $0.73 USD (at the time I bought it).

My SOD from Scrapyard Knife Works, only cost $119 USD and I bought it
when our dollar was worth more than the US dollar. Better price :)

A $50.00 Ka-Bar in the U.S. will run between $110 and $130 here. Thats
more than double the cost just because I live in Canada. And we're just
talking the very basic, cheapest Ka-Bar that I could find. If I wanted to get
something better, then we're talking a whole lot more.

For you, the Ka-Bar knife is a durable, do everything, inexpensive knife.
It may be all that, but as far as inexpensive goes, here where I live that
just ain't the case.

Just a note, my Becker BK9 cost me $35.00 + 8.00 shipping when I bought
it 4 years ago.

[Cleankill47]

I have the Cold Steel kukri machete, and I have to say, it is an extremely good blade for the money. The handle is molded, and the sheath is very durable, although I have to say I would like a more convenient type of sheath.

[Sarge47]

Freakin' Customs sucks! :eek: Sorry to hear that Dave, what a total bummer!:mad::(:cool:

[Pal334]

I just blunted the teeth on the rubber handled blade to possibly give a gripping surface when in use , will have to see how that works out. The liquid rubber seems to have given good coverage over the teeth in the handle area. Now if I were to such a blade with larger teeth, then I agree further grinding would probably be needed. The beauty of this process is that you literaly are only investing time, since you ae using scraps. Now I have one more container to collect stuff (discarded blades) in :) for future projects

[Leighman]

My 3 requirements for a good outdoor "fixed-blade" knife:

1.) It must have a "full-tang."

2.) It must have a "Rockwell-hardness" rating between 56 to 58.

3.) It must never exceed $120 in price...& that price will mean it's a fan-
tastic price!
:

From the above criteria, I would think Becker (now marketed through Ka-Bar), Ontario RTAK/RAT, and RAT Cutlery should all fill the bill.

I presently own and use all of the above brands and have had ZERO issues with any of them.

Some folks are into the latest "wonder steels" but a properly heat treated 1095 carbon blade will take care of just about any outdoor task you ask of it.

1095 may be less than corrosion resistant but with minimal care this is pretty much a non-issue to me.

[Leighman]

I have the Cold Steel kukri machete, and I have to say, it is an extremely good blade for the money. The handle is molded, and the sheath is very durable, although I have to say I would like a more convenient type of sheath.

Ditto to the CS kukri except that my sheath has not held up too well.
Once properly sharpened, mine has easily cut through the thin nylon material while sheathing/unsheathing. You are right, the "side opening" sheath is less than convenient.

Custom kydex is nice but can be pricey for this sized blade.

[davef]

Freakin' Customs sucks! :eek: Sorry to hear that Dave, what a total bummer!:mad::(:cool:

Tell me about it :(

Just to get my facts straight on the shipping charges, I went to the
website and double checked.
Apparently I got the shiping and handling pricing wrong.
I said that a Ka-Bar 1217 USMC listed at $49.99 with $25.90 s&h.
It should be a Ka-Bar 1217 USMC listed at $49.99 with $31.90 s&h.
I was too low on the shipping charges.

The end result is that if I want to get a Ka-Bar (locally or off internet), I'm
looking at shelling out between $110 and $130 for the knife.
To be honest, while the knife looks good, I'd much rather have a Becker
or a Scrapyard knife.
Since Becker is now being made by Ka-Bar, that would be the best of both
worlds. I love my BK9 and have pounded on that thing like you wouldn't
believe and haven't been able to damage it.

Cheers

[Leighman]

Nice collection of Busse, dogs, and rats you have there, davef!

Exchange rates aside, you are 100% on the manner in which folks snatch up the newest Busse/Busse-kin models. While prices may not double overnight, it's darn close to it!

The only reason I bought a Scrapyard Dumpspter Mutt (Summer 2008) was the fact that it was only $100 (NIB) delivered w/custom kydex. Glad I did as this is one tough blade!

Like with any hobby or sport, people have a difference of opinions regarding just how much they will spend on this or that.

That said, my own limit for a fixed blade knife is right around $100 max.

Like most people, I don't have $$$ to burn but I also want something sturdy & reliable.

Thankfully, in today's marketplace you can easily find well-made "slicers and choppers" in the sub $100 price range.

[davef]

Nice collection of Busse, dogs, and rats you have there, davef!
Exchange rates aside, you are 100% on the manner in which folks snatch up the newest Busse/Busse-kin models. While prices may not double overnight, it's darn close to it!
The only reason I bought a Scrapyard Dumpspter Mutt (Summer 2008) was the fact that it was only $100 (NIB) delivered w/custom kydex. Glad I did as this is one tough blade!
Like most people, I don't have $$$ to burn but I also want something sturdy & reliable.

I went in with a friend on that DMDC deal and we got 4 of them (2 each)
for a very decent price like you said. I kept one and sold the other to a
friend for what it cost me. So far, he's used it to skin a deer and a moose.
He loves it.
The Busse / Bussekin knives are a hot commodity. Besides being tough as
blazes, they have a 100% lifetime warranty, no questions asked. Can't beat
that for backing up your knives.
Plus, you can use them and if you decide to get rid of them, you can
always get back what you paid for them, usually more even though they're used.

My brother, his son and I cut down and limbed 3, 20 foot tall, 4-5 inch
diameter trees in their back yard this fall, and only used a buck saw, my
Ratweiler, and Scrapper6. The blades didn't even get dull. All I did was use
soapy warm water to clean the sap and stuff off of the blades after we
were done.
My SOD should be here next week, and I'm sure looking forward to that
one. It'll be a keeper for sure.

I've had the good fortune to own some very good knives. Pretty soon
though, I'm going to have to narrow things down to 2 or 3 and sell off the rest.

Cheers

[AKOutlander]

Hey there,

First post on these forums and I have to say I have heard some good advice. I have spent a lot of time in the Alaska bush, which is way off the grid. I have used both small and large knives and both have their place.

Any knife over $100 is too expensive for my taste, however to each his/her own. The knives I own have served me well. One thing I would recommend for anyone purchasing a new knife is to test it. Take it on some short day hikes and put it through some tests.

The other comment I would like to make is for those posting pictures of their so-called "tried and true" hunting/survival knife. If your knife still has the black teflon coating on it then it is not something you can truly call a reliable knife, nor make a recommendation regarding its abilities.

[crashdive123]

Hey there AKOutlander - welcome. When you get a chance head on over to the introduction section and tell us a bit about yourself. Thanks.

[crashdive123]

More spam - will they never learn?

[AKOutlander]

.....the days of troublesome scaling, cutting and gutting are over, because Super Bass-o-Matic '76 is the tool that lets you use the bass with no fish waste, and without scaling, cutting or gutting.

Super Bass-o-Matic '76 - you'll never have to scale, cut or gut again!

Sorry, I could not resist.

[crashdive123]

.....the days of troublesome scaling, cutting and gutting are over, because Super Bass-o-Matic '76 is the tool that lets you use the bass with no fish waste, and without scaling, cutting or gutting.

Super Bass-o-Matic '76 - you'll never have to scale, cut or gut again!

Sorry, I could not resist.

Ah - then you may enjoy my Rambo Super Deer Slayer Delux with Laser/Holo Sight/Scope/Tac Light in post 569 of this thread

[Sarge47]

Kiss the Spammer goodbye, yer 'ole resident Curmudgeon nailed his hide to the barn!:mad:

[crashdive123]

Thanks Sarge.

[Sarge47]

Thanks Sarge.
...no problemo...now where can I get one of those fancy Rambo knives you keep talking about?:confused::D:rolleyes::cool:

[crashdive123]

Sell you one for $675......a bargain compared to Bear's.

[Sarge47]

Sell you one for $675......a bargain compared to Bear's.
Now that's a deal! I'll take two! Do you take checks?:rolleyes:

[AKOutlander]

Add a watertight container fer me snuff, a grunt tube, and the pocket fisherman and you just might have the greatest invention of all time.

[crashdive123]

Add a watertight container fer me snuff, a grunt tube, and the pocket fisherman and you just might have the greatest invention of all time.

Should have shown the pics of the hollow handle.:D

[hoosierarcher]

As far as taking something with you to sharpen your knives check these out. Three grits from medium to extra fine and they will fit in a Fisherman's Friend cough drop tin kit.http://www.smkw.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?Mode=Cat&Cat=96&SKU=D3F

[Brazito]

I have a bowie wrapped with paracord.

http://www.ekknife.com/knives.html

I keep it in the top right drawer of my survival desk, LOL:D
I have several knives/multi-tools. What I carry is dictated by what I'm doing and where I'm going. Now if only I were better at sharpening.

[Blood Groove]

The previosuly mentioned site(www.knifetests.com) puts a Gerber LMF II to the test and it performed quite well.

Again, this fellow ("Noss") completely destroys the knives and while not really a scientific approach, he shows how much abuse certain types of knives can withstand before they eventually fail.

Oddly enough (or not), some very very inexpensive knives have outperformed some of the higher end versions (i.e. Chris Reeves).

Yeah I was very surprised that a Chris Reeves knife got a poor rating when I was at the site. It kind of dissapoints me that ceap knives get good ratings some times. Like the Cheaper than Dirt Rough use knife, got a pretty good rating. Better than the Ka-bar :( But that really doesn't tell how good the knives are, jsut how much abuse they can take.

[Leighman]

But that really doesn't tell how good the knives are, jsut how much abuse they can take.

I agree 100% but it is interesting to watch just "how much" abuse many of these blades take before complete failure. I have 4-5 of the better knives he has destroyed and while some have easily failed "his" tests, I still use them in the field with confidence and without worry.

That said, my Scrapyard Dumpster Mutt comes as close to "bulletproof" as any I own.

[Blood Groove]

Yeah well I use the Ka-bar like crazy without worrying about it breaking or anything, but in his tests it broke rather early on. It is neet so see just how tough a knife is though. Especially those Busse knives. They take one heck of a beating. It's like an advertisement for those knives. Hey I have a question about those, maybe you know it. What's the difference between Swamp Rat knives and the Busse knives. Is Swamp Rat just a less expensive version of those Busse knives?