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Camp10
06-07-2010, 08:38 PM
There was a little bit of interest in how I do this so I will attempt to show the way I make a guard for my knives. This is picture heavy and will be a work in progress.

First step is to get the blades profiled.
http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0955.jpg

Next, the brass is set under the blade and I mark the length of the guard that I want. I use a square to mark this cut. I find center on the brass and mark that as well. I will then mark the thickness of the blade so that it will be centered. Finally, I mark the bottom of the handle. The brass is then taken to the drill press.
http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0956.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0957.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0958.jpg

On the drill press, I drill a hole just slightly smaller than the width of the blade and at the bottom of the mark for the bottom of the handle. With that hole drilled,I use the bandsaw to cut from the top of the guard to the hole.
http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0961.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0964.jpg

Now it goes into the vise and filed to fit. It needs to fit very tight at this point because I still have some steel to remove when I finish the blade. Take your time and check fit it often!

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0966.jpg
When it fits tight, center punch two marks for the pins. These will be drilled with a 1/8" bit.
http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0968.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0969.jpg

And thats as far as I got for tonight. I'll profile the guards a little better and then heat treat the blades.
http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0971.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0970.jpg

crashdive123
06-07-2010, 09:40 PM
Cool - thanks for the step by step. Looking forward to the rest of the process.

p moore
06-07-2010, 10:42 PM
Tuned in.

Paul

rebel
06-08-2010, 05:58 PM
Very helpful, thanks.

Camp10
06-08-2010, 08:46 PM
Okay, once the slot is cut to fit the blade then it is time to shape the guard. This is just a "rough in" and I will finish it when the scales are attached.

I use a pair of water pump pliers to gauge the depth of what I would call the finger choil portion of the guard and use my 1/2" wheel my the belt grinder to cut the shape.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0974.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0975.jpg

Next, I use the disc sander to finish the profile.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0976.jpg

And that is about as far as I can go until I am done with the heat treat! I will get the front of the guards (what faces the blade) sanded to 320 grit because it is much easier now before it is soldered to the blade.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0982.jpg

I should say now that when I first started putting guards on blades, I used a few files, my belt grinder (the 6x48) and a drill press. You dont need to have these same tools to get the job done. Several of my tools and jigs I made myself to make knifemaking a little easier and quicker but very few of them are required to get the same job done.

It will be a few days before I will get back to these. I take my time with the heat treat so the next couple of days I will be working on this. When you see pictures of the blades next, they should be nearly in their finished condition.

COWBOYSURVIVAL
06-08-2010, 09:06 PM
Thanks alot Camp10! So the channel the tang rides in is left open but flush with the tang?

Camp10
06-08-2010, 09:28 PM
Thanks alot Camp10! So the channel the tang rides in is left open but flush with the tang?

There are a few ways to make them. For these knives I am making them like that. I usually make leather handled or stag handled knives that have a full guard and they are done different.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0095.jpg

I made this for the DOC giveaway knife with just a drill bit, a hand held drill, a few files and a vice. This will slip down over the tang to the blade and is soldered in place there.

crashdive123
06-08-2010, 10:48 PM
There are a few ways to make them. For these knives I am making them like that. I usually make leather handled or stag handled knives that have a full guard and they are done different.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0095.jpg

I made this for the DOC giveaway knife with just a drill bit, a hand held drill, a few files and a vice. This will slip down over the tang to the blade and is soldered in place there.

Can this one be pinned, or is it just soldered?

Camp10
06-09-2010, 05:41 AM
Can this one be pinned, or is it just soldered?

I just solder it. I suppose it could be pinned but if it is fit right it will be tight to the tang and pressed against the blade and the handle material so it isnt likely to be broken free.

Rick
06-09-2010, 07:06 AM
Great tutorial, Camp. I had to give you some rep.

Swamprat1
06-09-2010, 09:03 AM
thanks for the tutorial. never seen one made this way. I have been trying to figure out how I want the guard on an knife I am making for my dad. I think that this may be just what it needs.

Camp10
06-13-2010, 07:06 PM
I had hoped to be further along with this but my real job got in the way!:innocent:

Ok, the blades are heat treated and finished other than a trip to the buffer. Time to get back to the guard.

I have placed the guard back into its place on the blade and cut the 1/8" brass pins so that they stick past the guard about 1/16".

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0983.jpg

I put them on my very expensive mini anvil:innocent: and peen them over until they are flat with the guard. This will mess the sides of the guard up some but it's okay.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0985.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0986.jpg

I should probably comment on how messy my workbench is but I'm guessing anyone who is looking at this thread has the same problem when they are in the middle of something.

At this point, I put the knife (blade up) in my vise and put some flux so that it runs through the steel and under the brass. The flux I use is a liquid (it is called "stay clean" and can be purchased through any knife supply place)so it runs through this joint easily. I also wet a cotton swab with it for clean up later.

I use my same fancy anvil to flatten the silver solder out so that it will hug the blade tightly. When I have enough cut for this, I will wrap the blade and press it in with some pliers.


http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0988.jpg


http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0989.jpg

Next, I add heat. Use as low of a heat as you can to keep the blade from getting hot. As soon as you are finished with the solder, you may want to dip the knife blade (blade only, dont get the hot joint wet yet)in water to make sure it doesnt get hot.

When the solder melts in, I use the wet cotton swab to clean any extra solder off the blade. It is okay if it smears into the brass some because this will sand right off. It is hard to get it off the steel though when it cools.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0990.jpg

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0991.jpg

Lastly, pretty it up with 220 grit paper. I use a slack belt section of my belt grinder for this. There you go! Once the handle is completed, I will take it to the buffer and make the brass glow.

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0992.jpg

It isnt done yet, but here is a quick peak at what it looks like right now!

http://i949.photobucket.com/albums/ad337/lewisknives/100_0995.jpg

Hope you learned something!!

crashdive123
06-13-2010, 08:16 PM
Great tutorial - rep on the way.